replacing glow plugs on L diesel

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jlo2011

New Member
Posts
60
I starting replacing the glow plugs on the Lseries engine and was beat by
the lack of light, but the glow plug beside the pump is not easy removed.
So any tips on how to remove that one, and i have the other ones fitted:D:D
 
u cant its a waterpump off job but 3 new should do the trick i was quoted £700+ to change them in a garage cos of this it is a bad design im suprised that one of the makers hasnt developed a shoer plug of some design tbh..
 
u cant its a waterpump off job but 3 new should do the trick i was quoted £700+ to change them in a garage cos of this it is a bad design im suprised that one of the makers hasnt developed a shoer plug of some design tbh..

thanks for the reply , but is the fuel pump that is in the way and it is the same
problem any way. i took it to a mechanic who thinks he could have a go, so i will
let you know how he gets on .
 
Tbh i would just leave it if he damages the plug then it could end up being an expensive job by being forced into doing all four, wack the three you can get to in and see how she blows...
 
Tbh i would just leave it if he damages the plug then it could end up being an expensive job by being forced into doing all four, wack the three you can get to in and see how she blows...

Thanks mate, you would be right and i have been looking up some threads
on and the jeep will start with 3 glow plugs.
some guys have said that they had problems with cold starting which i have which is she cranks over for 30 seconds or so before the engine starts and after
that the car starts no problem all day. it can be the starter not turning over
fast enough or a temp sensor which fools the ecu in to thinking the engine is hot and that is the road i may go down and see if that improves the starting
from cold in the mornings. i have fitted the 3 glow plugs and i noticed the wire
which joins all four is missing or removed. what do you think.
 
I had the same problem last year slow start numerous turns of the key etc resulting in every now and then t a turn of the key would just be nothing there at all, as for the missing wire i wouldnt know tbh maybe start a new thread for that one i dint recall having one myself but i will check..
1st make sure your batterys good (also check the batterys water level) and alternator is charging properly halfords do a free check
check batery terminals arnt loose also changing the air/deisel filters makes a massiver difference in cold starting

fix for me it was corroded treminals on the starter and alternator had them swapped out for new ones - i could hyave done this myself but as i didnt know what it was it cost £45 for a mobile spark to sort it - with no need to swap the plugs yet altho they probably are due now..
The spark also told me something i didnt realise, on older diesels you had to wait for the plug light to go out before you turned the key, on the newer diesels the heat is instant and you can turn the key straight away (mines a 2000 w ) and on a cold morning i always light them up a few times before a attempt a start..

ive also read the fob battery can make a difference if its getting weak dunno how much i believ that tho...
 
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I have the 2000 model and that is not the only issues i have, i need to replace the drive
belt and tensioner may be the timing belt also. a leak in the boot compartment and the middle and side air vents do not seem to blow heat though them.
would it be a problem with the heater pipes behind the dash. and also change the coolant.
so a few weekends set a side for all that.
 
I have the 2000 model and that is not the only issues i have, i need to replace the drive
belt and tensioner may be the timing belt also. a leak in the boot compartment and the middle and side air vents do not seem to blow heat though them.
would it be a problem with the heater pipes behind the dash. and also change the coolant.
so a few weekends set a side for all that.

not done the belts yet but i think their meant to be easy enough wont hurt to do the timing belt at the same time, im guessing uve noticed that the heater dial settings are pants really youve gotta have the right setting to get the heat where it needs to go so when its nippy you cant have heat on the windscreen and through vent or to feet at the same time,

but id guess its the cable that connects the dial to the vent that opens the specific set of outlets and theve got stuck shut no unless they are like the old berlingo had where the dials are elecrtical contacts operating switches etc could be bad contacts fuse allsorts in that case, no idea on access tho maybe middle console (easy enough to remove pull the dials off and unscrew) and glove box out, you can get in and around the speedo area quite easily if that gives access to anythink relevant check the hayes manual usually a good reference point - is it all four vents does anything come out of the ones that aim for the windows?
 
i think without looking they are on seperate wires that prob join up somewhere else, maybe to prevent a faulty wire dissabling all 4?

just a guess

the 3 glow plugs have the wires on them and linked together except the fourth
one which is the one that will not come out.
 
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