replacing crank pulley

P

Pacman

Guest

• Jan 4, 2005

• #1

I've got myself a replacement 2.25 petrol (as my other one is about to die).
The crank pulley (where the fan belt sits) on the replacement engine is
broken so I need to get the one from my old engine.

When I try to undo the nut on the new engine, the engine turns (its not been
installed yet). So am I right in assuming that I'm going to have to remove
the old one from the old engine whilst its still in the vehicle by leaving
it in gear so I can undo the nut, then waiting until the replacement engine
is in and bolted to the gearbox before I can remove and replace the broken
one?

Paul

 

D

Dave White

Guest

• Jan 4, 2005

• #2

In <[email protected]> Pacman wrote:
> I've got myself a replacement 2.25 petrol (as my other one is about to
> die). The crank pulley (where the fan belt sits) on the replacement
> engine is broken so I need to get the one from my old engine.
>
> When I try to undo the nut on the new engine, the engine turns (its
> not been installed yet). So am I right in assuming that I'm going to
> have to remove the old one from the old engine whilst its still in the
> vehicle by leaving it in gear so I can undo the nut, then waiting
> until the replacement engine is in and bolted to the gearbox before I
> can remove and replace the broken one?

The usual way of locking the engine is to wedge something into the
starter teeth on the fly wheel. A bit of 1inch angle iron works well or
a ring spanner with the ring hooked over the teeth. Whatever you use,
turn the engine slowly anti-clockwise (use the crank puley bolt) until
the "wedge" stops it turning.

An air impact wrench will also normally free the bolt without having to
lock the flywheel.

cheers

Dave W.
http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/

 

B

Bruce Tanner

Guest

• Jan 4, 2005

• #3

If you remove the starter motor you can jam a screwdriver into the flywheel
cogs to stop the engine turning - works much better than leaving in gear
etc. anyway as there's no slack in the drive chain/brakes to absorb movement

"Pacman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've got myself a replacement 2.25 petrol (as my other one is about to
> die).
> The crank pulley (where the fan belt sits) on the replacement engine is
> broken so I need to get the one from my old engine.
>
> When I try to undo the nut on the new engine, the engine turns (its not
> been
> installed yet). So am I right in assuming that I'm going to have to
> remove
> the old one from the old engine whilst its still in the vehicle by leaving
> it in gear so I can undo the nut, then waiting until the replacement
> engine
> is in and bolted to the gearbox before I can remove and replace the broken
> one?
>
> Paul
>
>

 

D

Dave Liquorice

Guest

• Jan 4, 2005

• #4

On Tue, 4 Jan 2005 10:44:31 +0000 (UTC), Dave White wrote:

> An air impact wrench will also normally free the bolt without having
> to lock the flywheel.

And make sure you know which direction is the correct one for
loosening such a nut. It *might* be a left hand thread depending on
the direction of rotation of the shaft...

--
Cheers [email protected]
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

 

T

TVS

Guest

• Jan 4, 2005

• #5

> On Tue, 4 Jan 2005 10:44:31 +0000 (UTC), Dave White wrote:
>
> > An air impact wrench will also normally free the bolt without having
> > to lock the flywheel.
>
> And make sure you know which direction is the correct one for
> loosening such a nut. It *might* be a left hand thread depending on
> the direction of rotation of the shaft...

There 'normal' right hand threads on all landrovers and the torque seting is
200ftlbs on the crank pully (2 1/4). Having said that, I tightened mine and
all others I've done with a solid 1/2" drive bar which I've hit with a lump
hammer. Never had one come undone.
Toby

 

T

Tom Woods

Guest

• Jan 4, 2005

• #6

On Tue, 4 Jan 2005 13:51:47 -0000, "TVS" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>> On Tue, 4 Jan 2005 10:44:31 +0000 (UTC), Dave White wrote:
>>
>> > An air impact wrench will also normally free the bolt without having
>> > to lock the flywheel.
>>
>> And make sure you know which direction is the correct one for
>> loosening such a nut. It *might* be a left hand thread depending on
>> the direction of rotation of the shaft...
>
>There 'normal' right hand threads on all landrovers and the torque seting is
>200ftlbs on the crank pully (2 1/4). Having said that, I tightened mine and
>all others I've done with a solid 1/2" drive bar which I've hit with a lump
>hammer. Never had one come undone.

I did mine up with a ~3 foot powerbar with the sump off and a crow bar
wedging the crankshaft to stop it from turning. I'm pretty sure i put
some thread lock stuff on it too. I remember jumping on it to get it
tight.
It still managed to come off somehow. The pulley has chewed the key up
and scored the end of the crank shaft a lot too

 

I

Ian Rawlings

Guest

• Jan 4, 2005

• #7

On 2005-01-04, Bruce Tanner <[email protected]> wrote:

> If you remove the starter motor you can jam a screwdriver into the
> flywheel cogs to stop the engine turning - works much better than
> leaving in gear etc. anyway as there's no slack in the drive
> chain/brakes to absorb movement

Indeed, I've tried the "drivetrain" method of wedging before when
doing the propshaft, the drivetrain absorbed the hammer blow I gave
the spanner and threw it straight back at me. The spanner must have
flown about 15 feet. I'd hate to have that happen with a 3' breaker
bar!!

--
For every expert, there is an equal but opposite expert

 

T

TVS

Guest

• Jan 4, 2005

• #8

> >> > An air impact wrench will also normally free the bolt without having
> >> > to lock the flywheel.
> >>
> >> And make sure you know which direction is the correct one for
> >> loosening such a nut. It *might* be a left hand thread depending on
> >> the direction of rotation of the shaft...
> >
> >There 'normal' right hand threads on all landrovers and the torque seting
is
> >200ftlbs on the crank pully (2 1/4). Having said that, I tightened mine
and
> >all others I've done with a solid 1/2" drive bar which I've hit with a
lump
> >hammer. Never had one come undone.
>
> I did mine up with a ~3 foot powerbar with the sump off and a crow bar
> wedging the crankshaft to stop it from turning. I'm pretty sure i put
> some thread lock stuff on it too. I remember jumping on it to get it
> tight.
> It still managed to come off somehow. The pulley has chewed the key up
> and scored the end of the crank shaft a lot too

At the garage we had a 300TDi come in with a sheared woodruff key too...
amazingly it still ran! A new pully and key was fited and there wasn't any
movment on the key way fortunatly. That one is one we've never seen befor
ether, been main dealer serviced all its life...
Toby