replacing a gearbox in a Disco 1

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m1943

New Member
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20
Hello.
So I have a '93 Disco 200 tdi, LT77 is busted. I bought a spare used LT77 from a gasoline truck, so I believe I need to change the bell housings. Other than that, I am pondering wether this is a job that I could do in my garage or do I have to take her to the mechanic? Do I need to get a set of gaskets or anything else prior to starting this?
Thanks
 
Hello and welcome.

Where are you, someone may have a cheap gearbox?

You will need to change input shaft as well, not an easy job:)
 
Hello.
So I have a '93 Disco 200 tdi, LT77 is busted. I bought a spare used LT77 from a gasoline truck, so I believe I need to change the bell housings. Other than that, I am pondering wether this is a job that I could do in my garage or do I have to take her to the mechanic? Do I need to get a set of gaskets or anything else prior to starting this?
Thanks

depends on which box you bought is, have you the number stamped on oval -ish lug in front of drain bung
 
Thank you for the replies. I found out the hard way about this. Turns out, these boxes are different, although they all appear to be called LT77? Ashcroft Transmissions has info on this in their FAQ section:
Ashcroft Transmissions - LT77 FAQ's
So I guess I could, if I had the V8 clutch assy., or otherwise I can, provided I swap the shafts...
I am in Moscow, Russia. I've found a "diesel" LT77 for about $615, the one from V8 I purchased for roughly $490 and I will try to return it somehow. Funny thing is, they don't really seem to carry rebuild kits around here at least as far as I was able to find out so far. Was quoted something rediculous like several hundred dollars for synchros alone. I think Ashcroft and others carry complete rebuild kits for about $250, am I right? I want to rebuild my old transmission myself, provided I can get the parts.
 
I don't have the gearbox serial numbers off hand, I need to go to the garage where the truck is at. Question:
So this is a 200 Tdi, we removed the gearbox, where swapping the bell housings between the original "diesel" box and the new V8 box. So the input shafts are of a different diameter, swapping the shafts is probably not a job that I want to undertake right now. I am not sure those techs are qualified to do this and I don't know how much they would charge me for this. So, we figured, what I need is a special spigot bushing, like the STC 1166 or what not. Obviously this part is not available around here, I think is barely available even in the UK. So, if I measure the dimensions and simply have one made by a machinist? Will this solve my problem? I am looking for a machinist right now, just wonder what elese may spoil my plans. Thanks all.
P.S. Returning this box and getting a diesel box is going to cost me additional financial expenditures as well as driving there and back for hours, it's a headache I'd like to avoid.
 
we have our very own Russian Doc evil.

You could probably turn one up to fit shouldn't cost a fortune.

Good Luck!!Jai
 
we have our very own Russian Doc evil.

You could probably turn one up to fit shouldn't cost a fortune.

Good Luck!!Jai
You're flattering me, he he.... Anywho, been to the shop. Got gearbox numbers, and here they are: the original box is HRC 2071 SG4; the "new" box is HRC 2071 SG2. Now most of you may have already known this, but a V8 box will not go into a diesel car with an original diesel clutch pack, as the shaft will only engage about half the distance. So it will work, but probably not for long. I think someone has already mentioned this, but I didn't really pay attention untill now the mechanic showed me this problem. So while in theory I could get a V8 clutch (for like $60 used), I think this is simply too much trouble in this case, and I am better of trading the gearbox for a proper one.
Thanks everybody for the advice and all
 
OK, well the new tranny is in and it works. Cost me a total of about $900 parts and labor, plus another may be $40 for fluids. The gearbox is probably OK, though compared to a BMW gearbox for instance, it's total ****.
Now I have a nagging sus****ion that perhaps the techs at that shop were'n all that professional when it comes to servicing a Land Rover. I mean I was able to overlook the fact that one of the mechanics (the one with the bags under his eyes and an apparent alcohol problem) seems to live there, and the fact that it's a tin garage on the outscirts of the city that seems completely illegal as ore other garages in this gated community, but what really worries me, one of them admitted he had no idea how much fluid to put into the transfer case. So I brought them 3 liters of Elf 80w90 EP gear oil, and they dumped all 3 liters in there. I think it's supposed to be 2.5 or 2.7 liters? So is this a problem?
For the gear box we used Castrol Dextron II ATF fluid, but the fill hole there is on the side, so it's almost impossible to screw up there. So I'd appreciate it if you guys could let me know if these fluids, and particularly thing with the transfer case fluid is acceptable.
Another question is about the heater. Over here there are few diesels, most of the Disco's are V8, so nobody seems to have bothered to come up with a solution. And winter here is not quite what you may be used to on your island. Thanks again.
 
My old LT77s gearbox had a number starting with 56A and ending with a suffix H. Some British site recommends using Castrol SMX-S with these boxes, though ATF Dextron II/III is more commonly advised. What fluid is generally agreed upon? I've got Castrol ATF DexII in there right now... Thanks
 
My old LT77s gearbox had a number starting with 56A and ending with a suffix H. Some British site recommends using Castrol SMX-S with these boxes, though ATF Dextron II/III is more commonly advised. What fluid is generally agreed upon? I've got Castrol ATF DexII in there right now... Thanks

56a is a short bellhousing defender box, do you mean 55a, dexron 2 or 3 is ideal, boxes cant cope with thick oil
 
I don't need an R380 just yet, since I've just thrown in a "new" LT77, that is new to me. As far as the 56A, I was looking at a phone pic I took, and the numbers are hardly visible. So perhaps it is a 55A, I'll need to look at it again. My plan now is to repair the damn thing, I want to try doing it myself. I've been to Ashcroft site and a few others, seems most parts are available. The symptoms in my old box:
Reverse was fine
First was fine, though it took some effort to engage
Third would engage with noise, probably bad syncros
Second and Fourth would not engage at all, the stick would not stay in place, but there was some mechanical noise
Fifth was like it wasn't even there at all.
 
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