Removing door panel?

Hi All,

I've searched this site but can find no posts on this. I'm sure it's quite an easy thing to do, but I can't figure it out, and I don't want to break anything trying!
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

I had one of those suction cup mounted roller blinds on the back window, forgot it was there and wound the window down. The whole thing got pulled down inside the door. I've tried removing the screws beneath the grey door-pull handle, but the panel (or are they called 'cards'?) wouldn't come off. Obviously I'm missing something else...
Please help!

4 screws along the base .. below the door 'pocket'
release 8 'push on' clips .. 3 each side .. 2 at base
pivot the panel out at the base .. then lift to release 5 more clips along the top

Thanks hd3, much appreciated, I'll try that this evening.....

Poboy, if you car is outside don't forget it you need to cut the plastic vapour barrier once the door cards are off to tape any holes up with electrical tape as over time it will let water in and moisture and rust the metal parts.

I've had my door cards off for months.

Hmmm, the plot thickens...

Ok, I had a look last night, since this is a rear door, there is no 'pocket', and no sign of any screws along the bottom.
I had a look in the Haynes manual, but can make no sense of what was in there...
I also can't see any clips, are they hidden from view? How do I know where they are? How do I release them?

I just noticed, the new roller blind I'd put to put up to replace the old one also now has it's bottom end stuck down inside the door.
Help! I need to get these removed asap as the car is going in for window tinting this week....

wondering if we're on about the same object ?
i.e. the tailgate
hang on .. you mean a rear side door ?
( sorry i've assumed it were a 3 door

as far as 'push on clips' are concerned .. you need a flat blade to prise the 'card' away from the door ( according to haynes the rear side door card has those clips )
it'll sound like something's breaking .. a rasping sound .. as the clips come out of their seats ..

( i've a 3 door .. so no practical experience :-/ .. )

Yes, sorry, should have clarified that from the start, it's a rear side door.
I've unscrewed the three screws beneath the door pull handle, the one screw beneath the door latch, I can't see any other screws anywhere. I tried prising the panel off with a large slot headed screwdriver but it still won't budge.
Are there any more screws anywhere? Do I need to remove the speaker somehow first?

When i took of the panels from the rear doors so i could fix the regulators I found the clips to be extremely tight so just forced them of using a flat blade screwdriver they went with a crack and I thought I'd bust them but all were OK and were re-used
Don't remember having to do anything with the speakers as far as i can remember they are fastened to the door and the grills are fastened to the door panel.

Thanks for all the advice, guys, finally got it done!
Only to discover that it doesn't give me access to where I needed anyway
I was able to work my way around the edge of the panel using a large flat screwdriver, prising it away an inch or two and pop each clip out as I came to it. Got the panel off without breaking a single clip. :cool2:

The blind had gotten pulled down with the window glass actually inside the metal part of the door. The lower suction cup of the blind is still attached to the glass, but had been pushed down below the level of the sill as the window came back up again. Couldn't figure out how to get in there, even with the door panel off, but was able to wedge the same flat scredriver down into the sill and prise the bottom part of the blind out. The previous one is still in there but doesn't seem to be scratching the glass, so 'should' be okay for the window tinting.

Thanks again for all help. :tea:

hi all i am about to remove the front door panels as the harmon Kardon speakers have failed well the passenger mid range is dead and the drivers door is rattling and about to die. i have taken the what i think are all the screws one in the door release 2/3 in the handle and 3 along the bottom. however, i put in a trim removal tool and i hear the sound of tape or glue tearing? how far do i need to go to pop the plastic clips out?

also found the 9th speaker in the boot. worth keeping it sound like it gives a half decent punch out.

OK so i have the door card off i did not know that there was a screw hiding in the expandable holder on the door card! i have removed the first speaker and its soaking hence why its not working how and why? are freelancers renewed for this fault? its a shame that these good speakers are now U/S about to fit the news ones with lots of elccy tape to try and splash proof it

UPDATE:

the speaker cables are not a nice copper colour more black! bait of cleaning and they seem to be fine apart from the old speaker

the speak cables are well known for not giving a good contact so cleaning them should help , that is why people speaks go down and they just presume it is the speaker , the wires go made in China enough said I think

Teddy, yeah the contacts are shocking the speaker is heavily corroded, so for the mrs i bought her some Halfords FLI speakers for £40 and using the amp in the system still there is very little difference between them and the Harmon's very impressed! i nice rich midrange sound kicking out!....however....i believe that the rear doors are the same....made in China again! hoping i can just clean the contacts somehow anyone got any good tips on this?

I had my door panels ("cards" in UK) off several times. 2002 US Hippo (I don't know if Euro versions are different).

One screw in the door latch out (remove the cover). Two screws in the handle (handle stays on the panel). Four screws on the bottom of the door. Pry out the black "triangle" by the mirror, starting at the bottom (no screws), and use a plastic wedge, or a piece of wood.

When the screws on the bottom of the door are removed, you can insert your fingers in between the panel and the metal. Go around the door (on both sides), and give it a sharp pull whenever you feel resistance. Each "anchor" will pop out of it's seat in the metal. When all sides are free (except the top), lift the panel up over the lock pin.

This should all be done while the window is fully down!

To replace,......position the panel over the lock pin, insert the upper channel over the door, and LINE UP ALL anchors to their holes, WITHOUT pushing any of them in until they are all lined up. Once they are lined up, give each of them a strong push with the palm of your hand.

IF any of the anchors popped off the panel (and remained in their seats on the door) during the removal, they need to be pulled out of the door, and placed back on the door panel before reassembly. To pull them out of the door (without damage) I use a simple kitchen fork (there is a special tool available in the auto stores for that purpose, but it looks just like a two pronged fork). These anchors can be reused.

If you use the kitchen fork, hide it in the garage, and chances are very small that the wife will find out one is missing out of the set! If she does find out, plead ignorance! WARNING!!! You should NOT use the silver fork out of her grandmother's set (don't ask how I know)!

It's better to have new anchors available, but if both "tabs" on the anchor are not broken, you can reuse them. New ones are available from the dealer ONLY.

Once the panel is back on the door, snap the "triangle" back in its place, and replace the screws.

I hope this helps.