Reduced Engine Performance

My dad has an 07 freelander 2 manual diesel. It only has about 75k km. Just yesterday he was on a long drive and noticed it would not go over 100km/ph and it gave a message of "reduced engine performance". He thought it was due to dirty diesel and stopped and refilled the car. Problem came back but not to the same extent on he way back home. Does anyone have any advice or idea's as to the problem. Main dealers are very expensive to diagnose so I have told him I would check here first. thanks for any info. best regards, John

You definately need to get your engine DTC's read. Reguardless of if its main dealer, generic garage or a land rover specialist.

Without DTCs it would merely be guessing.


That message could be from anything like DPF requiring recalibrating (if its got it), to requiring PCM update, Turbo fault, blocked Fuel filter..... literally anything .


Goodluck with it though.

check the inlet turbo rubbers for any splits or loose on jubilee clips ,this is a very common fault and easy to repair. . . .just buy new rubber hoses don't try and repair them or tape as nothing will stick to them . . . .

Vissie said:

You definately need to get your engine DTC's read. Reguardless of if its main dealer, generic garage or a land rover specialist.

Without DTCs it would merely be guessing.


That message could be from anything like DPF requiring recalibrating (if its got it), to requiring PCM update, Turbo fault, blocked Fuel filter..... literally anything .


Goodluck with it though.

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Thanks for the help. rgds john

Guys,

Father brought the freelander to a friends garage and he put in on (what he claims is one of the latest diagnostic tools) and found 3 error msgs but said nothing was wrong with it. Cleared the msgs and two days later again it starts to loose power and gives msg, reduced engine performance!

Any suggestions or ideas? does he have to go to a main dealer for a LR specific check?

thanks

John

Gents,

have been searching for some similar probs on this site and I found that a fix for this problem was replacing the egr vacuum control filter. Would this be a good suggestion to our local friendly mechanic? thanks John

You'd be better off paying to get the dealer to accurately check the problem, rather than buying parts blindly.

A land rover diagnostic system would be better because you'll not only get manufacturer specific codes, but you'll get a more accurate diagnosis as it can be run with live/dynamic data to check the problem in real-time.

It would be a massive help if you told us what the irrelavent faults were as well.



They might not have seemed important, but the key to diagnostics is information.

Thanks for all the help. Prob was a blocked fuel filter. It has 72k km on the clock but was never changed during service. Running great now and not expensive fix. Ryes john

Well it should be changed every 30k according to the service sheet for a FL2, so you kinda missed 2 changes of it.


I'd make sure the rest of the servicing has been kept upto date to be honest Just for peace of mind.

Hi

My '59 Freelander 2 XS TD4e died on me yesterday evening, and displayed the Engine Performance Reduced warning. Fuel gauge showed 1/4 full, range 106 miles. Just driven about 360 miles, average fuel consumption 37.2 mpg. Car recovered to LR dealer, who me tells me it had run out of fuel! He added fuel and it started.

Doing the math, I reckoned I'd used 44 litres out of 58 put in the night before my journey. Should leave approx 14 litres. Car was low, but not completely empty when I refilled.

Garage informs me that the tank is a saddle type with two sides, senders and pumps. I imagine the secondary pump has failed, whereas the fuel reading is correct.

Hopefully will know more on Monday, and will keep you posted.

Vissie said:

I'd make sure the rest of the servicing has been kept upto date to be honest Just for peace of mind.

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Service schedule is at http://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11157/Maintenance Check Sheet (EU) Miles.pdf

You may find this site helpful, as it's FR2-specific. However there is an awful lot of c**p about which polish to use and how to upgrade the satnav, fit alloy wheels and spoilers and stuff... People on here are more down-to-earth and practical.

ming said:

check the inlet turbo rubbers for any splits or loose on jubilee clips ,this is a very common fault and easy to repair. . . .just buy new rubber hoses don't try and repair them or tape as nothing will stick to them . . . .

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This is definetly right answer for my case. My Freelander2 TD4 (70k km) had the same symptom and the message ("reduced engine performance") had been came up on the LCD. The reason was that there had been a crack on the inter-cooler hose so that the mixed gas was leaked. The temperature on the hose is very volitile and mixed gas as well as oil is coming thru the smooth rubber hose getting harder to be easy to be cracked.

According to the others' experiences on this forum, it seems that this matter usually happens when the FR2 runs about 70k km.

I've changed the inter-cooler hose (rubber) costs about USD200 and the matter was fixed.

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저도 프리랜더2 TD4를 7만km정도 주행하다가 이와 같은 문제가 생겼습니다. 속도계 밑에 LCD에 "Reduced Engine Performance"라는 메시지가 뜨더군요. 이 메시지가 표시되고 나니까 RPM도 2천을 잘 안넘어가고, 가속력도 현저하게 떨어지고, 최고속도가 100km를 넘지 않게 운행이 되었습니다. 서울 양재 서비스센터에 맡겨보니 저의 경우는 inter-cooler 호스가 갈라지면서 혼합기가 새기 때문임이 확인되었습니다. 고무재질의 이 호스는 터보챠져에서 혼합기를 엔진으로 보내주는 통로인데, 이 호스를 통해 혼합기 뿐 아니라 오일도 같이 통과하므로, 시간이 지날수록 호스의 경화가 진행되어 갈라지는 현상이 발생하게 됩니다. 서비스센터에서 호스 교환은 공임포함 22만원 정도 소요되었으며, 교환이후 문제는 해결되었습니다. 그러나 이 포럼 글들을 읽어보니 이 메시지가 뜨는 원인은 반드시 인터쿨러호스에만 있지는 않은 듯 합니다.

I’m aware this is an old thread but, I’ve got a freelander 2 and had the same ‘ engine reduced performance’ message on the dash yesterday.
Turned out to be the cam positioning sensor.

Martmadd said:

I’m aware this is an old thread but, I’ve got a freelander 2 and had the same ‘ engine reduced performance’ message on the dash yesterday.
Turned out to be the cam positioning sensor.

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Unusual for those to fail. The crank sensor fails for a past time, as does the plug. I've just replaced the plug and sensor on mine, which has improved the engine running under full load, and I'm hoping it's not going to leave me broken down for a 4th time.

Apologies, it was in fact the crank sensor that failed possibly due to the amount of road dirt that it collects being where it is on the engine.

Martmadd said:

Apologies, it was in fact the crank sensor that failed possibly due to the amount of road dirt that it collects being where it is on the engine.

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Was having exactly the same issue intermittently, and mine too was "P0335 - Crankshaft position sensor". Excellent chaps at my local LR specialists replaced for £120 - bargain.

Isurion said:

Excellent chaps at my local LR specialists replaced for £120 - bargain.

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£120 for a £25 sensor and 5 minutes work, that isn't a bargain, not even close.

The sensor is a 5 minute job to change.
I did mine at the road side in under 10 minutes, which included running a diagnostic on the ECM, then going to the boot to get my spare, and a 10mm spanner to change it. I was on my way in under 10 minutes.

However unless the plug is changed at the same time, the replacement sensor could have a short life.

Nodge68 said:

£120 for a £25 sensor and 5 minutes work, that isn't a bargain, not even close.

The sensor is a 5 minute job to change.
I did mine at the road side in under 10 minutes, which included running a diagnostic on the ECM, then going to the boot to get my spare, and a 10mm spanner to change it. I was on my way in under 10 minutes.

However unless the plug is changed at the same time, the replacement sensor could have a short life.

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That was including VAT
I'm a user, not an engineer. Well, not a motor mechanic anyways. I was an engineer, but not cars. I certainly wouldn't be carrying an ECU diagnostic tool and multiple spare sensors around in the boot. Think of the hit to your fuel economy with all that gear Nodge68. My AA membership card weighs 5grams

Isurion said:

I was an engineer, but not cars.

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If you're an engineer, you can change a crank sensor, it's secured to the engine by a single 10mm bolt, and one plug. It's easily accessible from the RH wheel arch, so nothing else needs removing to get at it, just turn the steering to the right to make more room, easy.

Isurion said:

I certainly wouldn't be carrying an ECU diagnostic tool and multiple spare sensors around in the boot. Think of the hit to your fuel economy with all that gear Nodge68. My AA membership card weighs 5grams

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The diagnostic tool I use weighs less than my phone, and displays all the issues on my phone.
The sensor is tiny, and maybe 50 grams, so no change in fuel economy.

I'd rather be able to diagnose an issue at the road side, and fix it too, rather than waiting hours for a break down service, but have RAC as a backup.
One thing I wouldn't do, is line the pockets of a greedy LR dealer, who is charging way over the value of the work they did.
But as long as you're happy, I guess that's all that matters.

Keep a spare in your boot, as they're known to fail, somtimes in short secession. This because the plug doesn't make a decent electrical connection to the sensor, which causes voltage spikes in the unit, causing it to fail early.
The AA have diagnostic equipment, and will fit a sensor, if you have one to give them.