Recomissioning rebuilt TD5 problem

Hi guys. Just put my rebuilt TD5 engine back in the 110. Unfortunately one of the bolts on the fuel pressure regulator stripped the thread in the brand new AMC head. Torqued it up to the tight values and it popped. Other two bolts are ok and I can get a turn on That bolt but cant do it up tight and fuel is leaking out. Obviously going to have to get a helicoil insert.
I have done everything necessary for a recomission including turning it over with the fuel pump disconnected to get oil round the new engine and have topped up the coolant with high grade OAT. The engine bay and injector looms are new as is the crank position sensor as I wasnt sure I had not damaged it when doing the breakdown. But it just wont seem to fire, took about 15 mins on and off the starter until battery started to fail and it wouldnt fire. Is it possible its the leaking pressure regulator that is the reason it wont fire. The problem if it is that is that I live in the middle of nowhere and had hoped to drive it down to someone who could do the helicoil for me as Im not confident in doing it myself and dont want to ruin the new head for a simple problem.
Any quick responses would be appreciated as I need to have her running for later this week or I will have to get a hire car for a while.
Gribbin suggested I post here as well as 110 in case shifty is about.

Just to add the leak from the pressure regulator is quite bad, its not just a drip. On the positive side on a newly charged battery today it really did try to fire but still didnt run under its own power

Run the purging sequence 2-3 times and dont insist with the throttle cos you can hydrolock it... the battery MUST be a powerfull one not just charged cos if the voltage drops below 10V while cranking it will hardly start also if the FPR is leaking that fuel in most cases ends up in the starter then it can disturb the crank signal so if you have somebody to help better try to bump start it

Thanks Sierrafery. Battery is good 110ah. Hadnt thought of the diesel interupting the crank signal. And hadnt considered bump starting... worth a thought

Make sure also that fuel didnt get to the crank sensor's plug

There you go
Just a thought... Helicoil will be stronger.. but you can clean out with a drill and tap to the next size up... assuming you can get a larger bolt in/or willing to drill FPR too?
I had issues with my rotor filter cover... but that was easier - better access, and open behind.

gribbin me too. Think the rotor cap bolts are prone to it so tapped up and a larger bolt. But as this is a new AMC head dont really want to go down that route especially as I dont know if the reason it stripped was because of a bubble in the cast or a bit of weaker alloy. Local mech has said he will helicoil it in place so no worries now (other than the un needed extra expense) should be able to get to it relatively easily when the fuel cooler and plenum are removed, maybe the loom at that point too. Even better if I dont get her started he will come and pick her up.

Sierrafery, just a thought. The Crank position sensor is quite a tight fit in the hole in the bell housing. I did think It looked a bit proud and I could see the top of the green sealing washer but I didnt want to give a sensitve sensor a tap with a plastic mallet. Might there be a chance i havnt seated it right in far enough and though ive tightened the nut to the right torque its bending the sensor a tiny bit and this is confusing the ECU? The engine has tried to fire when ive turned it over but just doesnt quite get there.

Sierrafery, just read your post on Crank Sensors on another thread and might have solved the problem. I bought a mid range aftermarket CKP not genuine oem. Only replaced it as I wasnt sure i had damaged the old one separating the bell housing as I had loosened the securing bolt but got ahead of myself and forgot to withdraw it when I pulled it apart. Ive still got the old one which doesnt look like there is any damage. Do you think as I know it worked before its worth swapping them back and

Right, up and running. Checked whether the old seal on the CrankPositionSensor was still in the hole and that I had put the aftermarket one in on top. No hadnt been that much of a numpty. So got to thinking why didnt the old one have a seal? Put the old one back in without a seal and started straight away so maybe something to do with the sensor not contacting with the flywheel well enough when the seal is in place? Used to start first turn on the key with no pedal but now needs a dab on the pedal but thats probably just bedding the new engine in we shall see in a week or two.

Dickeylefrog said:

Right, up and running. Checked whether the old seal on the CrankPositionSensor was still in the hole and that I had put the aftermarket one in on top. No hadnt been that much of a numpty. So got to thinking why didnt the old one have a seal? Put the old one back in without a seal and started straight away so maybe something to do with the sensor not contacting with the flywheel well enough when the seal is in place? Used to start first turn on the key with no pedal but now needs a dab on the pedal but thats probably just bedding the new engine in we shall see in a week or two.

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The crank position sensor should never actually contact the flywheel. It should be shimmed to get clearance. There is no correct clearance as each sensor/flywheel combo is different. The closer the sensor the stronger and more reliable the signal. Sometimes it is just trial and error to get it right.

Sorry about having to keep this thread going. I managed to get her running last week with easy start to limp her to the mechanic to fit a helicoil on the head for the fuel pressure Regulator to solve the diesel leak. Limping is not really accurate as she ran really well on the 20 miles drive in and started ok when the engine was warmed up. Unfortunately when I went to pick her up this evening after an enforced absence in Scotland curtesy of Emma she wouldnt start, cranking and nearly firing but not getting there. Anyone have any thoughts?