Rear window not dropping ???

Hi everyone, i've had a problem with my rear door window for a while and finally had a look at it today.
Window works fine Up & Down from the switch inside the car......BUT....
If i open the rear door the window don't drop that 2" as it should ????
If i push the window down by hand then close the door it raises back up as it should do.

I have done the calibration test, disconnected battery waited etc and the calibration was ok.....

But it still won't drop that tiny bit when u open door...

Any Thoughts Please or Help ??
Cheers in Advance Kevin

So what happens to the window when you reconnecte the battery?

It should drop to the bottom and wait for you to calibrate it.

To calibrate once the window has dropped down.

Switch the ignition on and drive the window up using the internal switch until there's a beep. The beep is configuration that the window parameters are now stored. From then on, it should work correctly.
Unless there's slack in the cable, not pulling the window down correctly.

Have you tried the fob key to drop the window and the ignition key to raise it back up.

Hi guys thanks for the replies....
Nodge as you say, i disconnected battery waited for about 20 secs, reconnected battery after about 2 secs the window goes down, i turn on the ignition so i get the dash lights on then put the window up via the internal switch the window goes up fine.....but i don't get a beep though ?

Saxavordian - yes my window works fine and opens if i push and hold the unlock on the keyfob.

The window in general works perfect except that it dont drop on opening the door but you can here the motor going down but its not taking the window with it that couple of inches ??????

Nodge68 said:

Unless there's slack in the cable, not pulling the window down correctly.

Click to expand...

Nodge if there is slack can it be taken up if i open up the rear door panel ???

Nodge68 said:

So what happens to the window when you reconnecte the battery?

It should drop to the bottom and wait for you to calibrate it.

To calibrate once the window has dropped down.

Switch the ignition on and drive the window up using the internal switch until there's a beep. The beep is configuration that the window parameters are now stored. From then on, it should work correctly.
Unless there's slack in the cable, not pulling the window down correctly.

Click to expand...

I have the exact same problem. How it began, a colleague opened the door without letting the window drop down that 20 / 30 mm. Now when you open the door the glass moves down about 5mm, yes I've been pushing it down by hand the rest of the way.
The door glass works fine by the dash switch and with the remote fob and goes back up with the key too.

I'll try the recalibration you suggest. I intrigued about the possibility of cable slack. When my colleague opened the door is there a possibility that the glass' mechanism may have been partially dislodged so as to give the symptom of a slack cable?

kevin payter said:

Nodge if there is slack can it be taken up if i open up the rear door panel ???

Click to expand...

The cables tension is controlled by springs on each side of the drive drum. As the cables stretch, cable tension drops. This can affect the way the way the window moves over short movements. The window can also stick in runners with the glass in its top position. These 2 problems combine to make without operation a hit and miss affair.

Doing the calibration can often correct a slight cable stretch problem. But if it's stretched to far, replacement is the only cure. The whole assembly, minus the motor is available off EBay for around £40. It's definitely worth replacing, if the cable is suspected.

htr said:

I have the exact same problem. How it began, a colleague opened the door without letting the window drop down that 20 / 30 mm. Now when you open the door the glass moves down about 5mm, yes I've been pushing it down by hand the rest of the way.
The door glass works fine by the dash switch and with the remote fob and goes back up with the key too.

I'll try the recalibration you suggest. I intrigued about the possibility of cable slack. When my colleague opened the door is there a possibility that the glass' mechanism may have been partially dislodged so as to give the symptom of a slack cable?

Click to expand...

In theory it's impossible for the door to open while the window is still in the frame. The CCU delays the lock release for almost 1 second, giving time for the window to drop. So if the window hit the top frame on opening. It already had a drive fault that slowed down the glasses decent.

Nodge68 said:

In theory it's impossible for the door to open while the window is still in the frame. The CCU delays the lock release for almost 1 second, giving time for the window to drop. So if the window hit the top frame on opening. It already had a drive fault that slowed down the glasses decent.

Click to expand...

In mine when you operate the door handle the glass drops only a few mm and you can open the door. The top of the glass catches on the plastic trim - flexes forward as the door is opened. I have to take the door liner / card off and have a look.

htr said:

In mine when you operate the door handle the glass drops only a few mm and you can open the door. The top of the glass catches on the plastic trim - flexes forward as the door is opened. I have to take the door liner / card off and have a look.

Click to expand...

mine does a similar thing my window hits the plastic frame when u open the door and then i have to push the window down by hand, close the door and the window rises as it should.....its just the opening the door mine has the fault ???

htr said:

In mine when you operate the door handle the glass drops only a few mm and you can open the door. The top of the glass catches on the plastic trim - flexes forward as the door is opened. I have to take the door liner / card off and have a look.

Click to expand...

kevin payter said:

mine does a similar thing my window hits the plastic frame when u open the door and then i have to push the window down by hand, close the door and the window rises as it should.....its just the opening the door mine has the fault ???

Click to expand...

Try a calibration. But if that doesn't fix it, a rebuild of the cable assembly is needed.

I replaced a window regulator on an awful Peugeot rag top turd can my daughter had the misfortune to own for a short time. That took a few times to recalibrate itself as I recall, do not know if that is a thing or not. I wondered about this sort of thing as I have recently acquired a driving light pod set for my TD4 facelift and have never disconnected the battery before. I wondered if things needed recalibrating etc.

Philgt50 said:

I replaced a window regulator on an awful Peugeot rag top turd can my daughter had the misfortune to own for a short time. That took a few times to recalibrate itself as I recall, do not know if that is a thing or not. I wondered about this sort of thing as I have recently acquired a driving light pod set for my TD4 facelift and have never disconnected the battery before. I wondered if things needed recalibrating etc.

Click to expand...

The rear door window will need calibration and you'll need to re-enter the radio code. That's all the calibrations needed after battery reconnection.

Nodge68 said:

The rear door window will need calibration and you'll need to re-enter the radio code. That's all the calibrations needed after battery reconnection.

Click to expand...

Thanks a lot Nodge you are a gentleman and obviously have taken a lot of things apart