Rear suspension bushes

GLIDEMAN · Nov 15, 2011

I have a 2003 L322 with both upper & lower rear hub bushes worn. The question is can I remove the hub and take it to a machine shop to have the bushes pressed into place or do I have to remove the whole rear suspension arm, air bag etc? I have got all the parts OEM which came to just under £100 for all 4 bushes which isn't too bad I though. Looked everywhere to try to find a puller to remove the bushes but nobody seems to do them!

Does anyone know of an easier way to do this job?

wammers · Nov 15, 2011

GLIDEMAN said:
I have a 2003 L322 with both upper & lower rear hub bushes worn. The question is can I remove the hub and take it to a machine shop to have the bushes pressed into place or do I have to remove the whole rear suspension arm, air bag etc? I have got all the parts OEM which came to just under £100 for all 4 bushes which isn't too bad I though. Looked everywhere to try to find a puller to remove the bushes but nobody seems to do them!

Does anyone know of an easier way to do this job?

I am not entirely sure about this, so could be corrected. But i think the bolts are eccentric and adjust the camber angle on the L322. So you will need geometry check after refit of hubs.

Saint.V8 · Nov 15, 2011

The Wammer is (as always) Bang on once again, the pins are eccentric and the alignment will need to be checked on completion....

I attach the relevant WSM pages....

GLIDEMAN · Nov 15, 2011

Thanks SaintV8 I've been looking everywhere for a diagram of the parts

Saint.V8 · Nov 15, 2011

Download RAVE (Do a search on here - Make sure it is the latest/Last one - Version 20 - as it has the L322 WSM on it).

RAVE is the Workshop Manuals for all Land Rover Products

arron beast unleashed · Nov 15, 2011

if you buy a bit of studding (threaded bar) you can use either sockets or tube if you have some to pull the old bushes out and pull the new ones in, there not in there very tight so ne need for a press. you can also use a dot punch to mark the bolts and there position before removal so you have something to line them up with on reassembley that way you geometry wont be miles out.

birchy71 · Nov 16, 2011

I once spent 4 hours trying to get the top bush out an absoloute bastard broke several home made tools with no joy coouldn't even get the bolt out put it in a garage to get done he got the hub off by bburning the bolt off and said his 20 ton press struggled to press the bush out but managed , but done others on other cars with no bother before with the threaded rod and socket method so you might be lucky.

Stoneytd5 · Nov 16, 2011

mark the bolts before you take them off as to their positioning and refit to the same place..... also i have a tool to do them in situe and the press out one way and obviously go back in one way. takes max of an hour each side oh and theres a large circlip /retaining clip on the bottom ones

holidaychicken · Nov 15, 2013

i was going to start a new thread but thought i would bump an old one if thats ok ....

i am looking to replace both my upper and lower outer suspension arm hub bushes which looks relatively simple in rave.

i have a question about the tools though.

i found several references to the vectra tool being the correct size but couldn't find out if the kit worked for both upper and lower bushes as rave shows two different special tools so must be a different size i guess?

the vectra kit, i found on ebay, is linked below.

this is the same as the sealey kit i think that was recommended on one of the sites i searched

New Vauxhall Opel Rear Suspension Bush Removal Installation Tool Remover Tools | eBay

any help much appreciated as always

myfirstl322 · Nov 15, 2013

Normal threaded bar is crap, you need higher grade bar, not sure what you call it though,
i'd press em out, but use an aerosol of light colour and spray eccentric bolts, this will leave a shadow thus allowing exact re-alignment as original setting, but worth getting laser alignment done after.... good luck.

holidaychicken · Nov 16, 2013

myfirstl322 said:
Normal threaded bar is crap, you need higher grade bar, not sure what you call it though,
i'd press em out, but use an aerosol of light colour and spray eccentric bolts, this will leave a shadow thus allowing exact re-alignment as original setting, but worth getting laser alignment done after.... good luck.

high tensile studding and similar nuts would be good i think but its the diameters of the spacers, i have found a set on ebay for £99 which i could use and then sell on again.
i found a complete how to on another site so will study that and report back.

UNIVERSAL CAR HGV LGV PRESS AND PULL SLEEVE KIT BUSH AND BEARING REMOVAL SET UK | eBay

loony has been cured of range rover repairs so could be on my own with this one....or i may just take it around to the local indy and get him to do it on his ramp

birchy71 · Nov 17, 2013

thats the same kit i have and when i did my top hub bushes earlier this year it was spot on.bit of heat from blow torch comes in handy aswell

holidaychicken · Nov 18, 2013

birchy71 said:
thats the same kit i have and when i did my top hub bushes earlier this year it was spot on.bit of heat from blow torch comes in handy aswell

good news, thanks, i ordered the kit on saturday along with top and bottom bushes and also the track control arm and all the related nuts and bolts etc.

figbatty · May 12, 2016

holidaychicken said:
good news, thanks, i ordered the kit on saturday along with top and bottom bushes and also the track control arm and all the related nuts and bolts etc.

Hi
Did this go ok ??
Just about to do mine - and interested in how you got on - sorry I see it was a while ago

Cheers

holidaychicken · May 12, 2016

Yes went very well using the press kit shown, which i still have.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

The biggest problem i had was the inner track control arm bolts were seized solid into the bushes, i knew this as kwikfit broke a socket trying to move them, so i had to cut either end off of the bolt using a small reciprocating hacksaw which took about an hour per bolt. A 1 mm cut off disc in an angle grinder would take about 20 seconds but i wasn't sure how close i was to petrol tank breathers and was being a bit of a pussy but doing it now i would just poke a wet rag around the area to catch the sparks.
i used halfords shock and unlock which i think worked well or the bolts were just going to come undone anyway and i have a 24 " breaker bar.
i replaced all the nuts bolts, washers and the large circlips and used copper slips on the all the bolts in case i ever have to move them again.
The biggest pain i had was trying to line up the bolts to put it back together and i struggled like buggery for about an hour until remembered reading on a forum about taking the handbrake off which i did and the bolts dropped in without any effort.
i marked the position of all the cam bolts and put the new ones back in a similar position and the took it to kwikfit straight away to have the 4 wheel alignment done.

Be careful with your jacking and supporting, i jacked up and used an axle stand under the jacking point and then a trolley jack under the radius arm to lower it down when the bolts were removed

wammers · May 12, 2016

holidaychicken said:
Yes went very well using the press kit shown, which i still have.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-CAR-HGV-LGV-PRESS-AND-PULL-SLEEVE-KIT-BUSH-AND-BEARING-REMOVAL-SET-UK-/261313692023?rmvSB=true&clk_rvr_id=1029013289494&nma=true&si=bRX7PHZ0j6VaVz7F0dbuOGYRrwY%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

The biggest problem i had was the inner track control arm bolts were seized solid into the bushes, i knew this as kwikfit broke a socket trying to move them, so i had to cut either end off of the bolt using a small reciprocating hacksaw which took about an hour per bolt. A 1 mm cut off disc in an angle grinder would take about 20 seconds but i wasn't sure how close i was to petrol tank breathers and was being a bit of a pussy but doing it now i would just poke a wet rag around the area to catch the sparks.
i used halfords shock and unlock which i think worked well or the bolts were just going to come undone anyway and i have a 24 " breaker bar.
i replaced all the nuts bolts, washers and the large circlips and used copper slips on the all the bolts in case i ever have to move them again.
The biggest pain i had was trying to line up the bolts to put it back together and i struggled like buggery for about an hour until remembered reading on a forum about taking the handbrake off which i did and the bolts dropped in without any effort.
i marked the position of all the cam bolts and put the new ones back in a similar position and the took it to kwikfit straight away to have the 4 wheel alignment done.

Be careful with your jacking and supporting, i jacked up and used an axle stand under the jacking point and then a trolley jack under the radius arm to lower it down when the bolts were removed

You took a car to Kwikfit for repair, are you mad?

holidaychicken · May 12, 2016

yes and yes !
It was only for the initial 4 wheel alignment that they couldn't do because of the seized bolts, not for them to do the repair, are you mad ??

tomcat59alan · May 12, 2016

holidaychicken said:
yes and yes !
It was only for the initial 4 wheel alignment that they couldn't do because of the seized bolts, not for them to do the repair, are you mad ??

Ooooo,24 inches, that big ,even for you.Who do you get to hold it for you, lip wristed puff.

holidaychicken · May 12, 2016

so here as well eh,by the time you had finished there wouldn't be anything left to get hold of..

good evening Alan x

tomcat59alan · May 12, 2016

holidaychicken said:
so here as well eh,by the time you had finished there wouldn't be anything left to get hold of..
good evening Alan x

Good evening mate, hope you are well.

Rear suspension bushes

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