Disco 3 (LR3) Rear Fog light coming on with reverse light problem

Hi,

I have just become the proud owner of a 2006 Disco 3 HSE. This is my first but long wanted Landy and I'm already loving the experience! Apart from a small problem which has just become apparent...

I have noticed when I put it in reverse that the rear fog light warning light on the dashboard is coming on and after checking the lights, the reverse light and fog light on the off side are both illuminating dimly when reverse is selected or the rear fog lights are on. I have removed the cluster to check the connections, which are in good condition, there are no visibly damaged wires and the connections are all clean and tidy.

Does anybody have any idea what could be the cause of this and what I should do next to try and remedy the situation?

I would greatly appreciate any help or advice as auto electrics are not my strong point and I would much rather fix it myself than take it to a garage to get fleeced.

Thanks in advance,

Disco Dave

Do you want someone to come round and fix it for ya.

That would be great ... Are you in North Devon? Cheers

You're much better off posting these sorts of questions in the relevant forum

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/forum/land-rover-discovery.8/

Moved

Shimsteriom said:

You're much better off posting these sorts of questions in the relevant forum

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/forum/land-rover-discovery.8/

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blue beasty said:

Moved

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Ahh, I wondered what the Bobsticle was doing in here....

@David Cain - I don't have a D3, but might it be a problem in or around the towbar electrics causing it? @gstuart might have a better idea.

David Cain said:

Hi,

I have just become the proud owner of a 2006 Disco 3 HSE. This is my first but long wanted Landy and I'm already loving the experience! Apart from a small problem which has just become apparent...

I have noticed when I put it in reverse that the rear fog light warning light on the dashboard is coming on and after checking the lights, the reverse light and fog light on the off side are both illuminating dimly when reverse is selected or the rear fog lights are on. I have removed the cluster to check the connections, which are in good condition, there are no visibly damaged wires and the connections are all clean and tidy.

Does anybody have any idea what could be the cause of this and what I should do next to try and remedy the situation?

I would greatly appreciate any help or advice as auto electrics are not my strong point and I would much rather fix it myself than take it to a garage to get fleeced.

Thanks in advance,

Disco Dave

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hi and welcome

have a look at the following plse

1) in the off side boot locker , remove the small panel , take ur jack out and check the body earths

2) remove the towing socket cover , check the towing socket for any bad connectors , not full of water etc

3) have u got Leds fitted in the rear light clusters

4) how long has the dashboard fog light been showing and do u tow

if that doesn’t work, left hand boot locker u will have a small fuse block , can’t remember the number off the top of my head but pull the fuse out for the towing sockets and then see if it still does it

hope that gives u a basic direction to go in

plse let us know how u get on

gary

Bad earth, or towbar socket full of moisture

wrong bulbs fitted causing short circuit, also check inside each bulb for a collapsed filament causing havoc.
Easy check remove both rear lights and pug each one back in separately if fault only on one lamp you now know where to look.

Sounds like a bad earth somewhere

Spong said:

Ahh, I wondered what the Bobsticle was doing in here....

@David Cain - I don't have a D3, but might it be a problem in or around the towbar electrics causing it? @gstuart might have a better idea.

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You wouldn’t catch me in ere. Not with you lot undressing me with your eyes.

lynall said:

wrong bulbs fitted causing short circuit, also check inside each bulb for a collapsed filament causing havoc.
Easy check remove both rear lights and pug each one back in separately if fault only on one lamp you now know where to look.

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u saying that , did u hear someone had their entire D3 chassis wiring loom replaced by the dealer , but it turned out to be a bad bulb

outstanding , lol

gstuart said:

u saying that , did u hear someone had their entire D3 chassis wiring loom replaced by the dealer , but it turned out to be a bad bulb

outstanding , lol

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Shows really the stupidity of canbus systems, it will only get worse in the future, but it will never be the designer that feels the pain

freelance said:

Shows really the stupidity of canbus systems, it will only get worse in the future, but it will never be the designer that feels the pain

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indeed and been finding that out , if a wire, sensor etc fails or not up to spec in how it can really cause the system to spit it’s dummy out big time

also read where someone was having a nightmare with there auto gearbox , kept shifting all over the place, found to be the brake pedal switch

thk god in once sense for decent diagnostics, but alas that’s not the end of it all, it’s understanding what it’s trying to tell u

can only assume as things progress there not going to get any easier to understand or diagnose , also at what stage does working on ur own vehicle become un viable due to more and more specialist tools required and the access/ cost of such items

but suppose it’s like everything , manufactures are having to add more complex systems & technology as to strive towards more customers to buy into there ideas

That's just what the buggers have been after for years,they want to make a fortune out of us by actively stopping us doing it ourselves and then charging £200 pH for some spotty oik to plug it in

Joemac434 said:

That's just what the buggers have been after for years,they want to make a fortune out of us by actively stopping us doing it ourselves and then charging £200 pH for some spotty oik to plug it in

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agree and think it’s been a game changer that now more advanced diagnostic readers are available to us

no longer so to speak do we have to do there bidding by shelling out £120 quid for them to just tell us what the fault codes are and producing a proposed quote for further works

along with there prices in comparison where we can simply search via the internet for better deals

or trying to tell us we can’t do certain things without very expensive tools etc

gstuart said:

agree and think it’s been a game changer that now more advanced diagnostic readers are available to us

no longer so to speak do we have to do there bidding by shelling out £120 quid for them to just tell us what the fault codes are and producing a proposed quote for further works

along with there prices in comparison where we can simply search via the internet for better deals

or trying to tell us we can’t do certain things without very expensive tools etc

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That was proved by them saying stuff like you'd have to remove the body on d3/4 etc to change the belts at£1k plus.now clever peeps have found that's crap and it can be done with body on How much have they ripped off doing that? Thank god there are innovative and clever amateurs out here who always seem to find a way god bless em!

Joemac434 said:

That was proved by them saying stuff like you'd have to remove the body on d3/4 etc to change the belts at£1k plus.now clever peeps have found that's crap and it can be done with body on How much have they ripped off doing that? Thank god there are innovative and clever amateurs out here who always seem to find a way god bless em!

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very true and maybe they got away with it at the beginning but with now having forums and sharing information it’s good that it at least gets rid of a lot of myths

did happen to watch the mechanics who done my belts and the rear one was changed in around 30 x minutes, all the belts, water pump, oil pump cover etc was all done and dusted in approx 5 x hours

another myth is the turbo on a 2.7 can’t be changed without removing the body which is also untrue , i grant u not very easy but can be done

know when i needed to replace my curtain airbags it involved the removal of the entire headlining , a lot of garages were either giving me stupid quotes or said the windscreen had to come out and also the main srs ecu had to be replaced

alas , managed to disprove that as the entire headlining came out the boot in one go and also just reset the srs ecu to normal state after fitting new curtain airbags and the airbag light went out, happy days and saved a fortune

but know without great help from here i would have seriously struggled without that additional assistance

freelance said:

Shows really the stupidity of canbus systems, it will only get worse in the future, but it will never be the designer that feels the pain

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I would say its the tech who diagnosed it as a wiring issue who was at fault, of course if his boss is like many employers he might have not been on any courses to teach him how to diagnose and repair todays crop of high tech modern motors.
Can-bus is here to stay and will get more and more common until even joe blogs can diagnose and fix them.