Rear body angle - anyone replaced it..?

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Mike-110-CrewCab

Mike-110-CrewCab

Member
Posts
12
Location
winchester
Dear all you auld an wise folk;

I posted this in AG and got mobbed by smart comments (and a few helpful ones) has anyone replaced the rear body angle on a 110 pickup? is it a bast*rd to do? if i don't have jacks etc it it a job for the workshop? does the tub have to come off? any helpful comments are much appreciated.

Ta in advance you 'orrible lot...

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It runs the full width of the vehicle and is spot welded in a lot of places. Right at the ends it also has a corner bracket welded to it that braces the rear wings. I don't think you will be able to do it without lifting the tub as it's behind the rear quarter panels and won't drop down passed the chassis rails.
 
Al2O3 said:
It runs the full width of the vehicle and is spot welded in a lot of places. Right at the ends it also has a corner bracket welded to it that braces the rear wings. I don't think you will be able to do it without lifting the tub as it's behind the rear quarter panels and won't drop down passed the chassis rails.
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That's how I remember it too.
 
Take the rear door threshold off to get a better view, that rubber traps the moisture and lr glued it in place which I don’t recommend doing
 
Mine was pretty ropey and starting to rot inside out - helpfully positionedso you couldn’t get at it without major upheaval. So I cut out the rot, flushed out the mud, dried and rust proofed it, filled it with quality Isopon products, sanded primed and repainted. Cant see the join.......
 
slomofo said:
Mine was pretty ropey and starting to rot inside out - helpfully positionedso you couldn’t get at it without major upheaval. So I cut out the rot, flushed out the mud, dried and rust proofed it, filled it with quality Isopon products, sanded primed and repainted. Cant see the join.......
Click to expand...

Sounds like the best route from the info above, if i can fill and patch to get a few more years before i think about replacing.

Will take a look at "Isopon"

Thanks again all for the advice, as always much appreciated
 
Mike-110-CrewCab said:
2013. - have a fair bit of oxidisation on the aluminium components under the rear passenger seats too. I’m hoping a brush off and acid prime will help those areas
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You really need to create a “barrier” or “gasket” between the steel and ally as a long term prevention. The painting should be a short term cure.
 
Discodevon said:
Only a few years old then, do you live near the sea?
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Winchester, although I bought the Landy from Yorkshire less than a year ago.

I’m going to cut out section and fill - I have looked at the “Ultra Tuf Gel” from the boat industry, coat the internal exposed ally parts with that and pump some into the crevice behind the rear angle before filling.

Hopefully get a few more years before replacing it.
 
Lovely looking Land Rover you have, it shouldn’t be that rusty already though... Did it begin it’s life in Yorkshire?
 
Be careful if you take out the bolts that are fitted through the angle when filling/ sanding, the captive nuts will have rusted - look like aftermarket bolts so hopefully not made of cheese, the ones that like to snap halfway out. Plenty of Plusgas to keep them moving....( speaking from bitter, time consuming experience on a ‘53 plate)
 
Mike-110-CrewCab said:
2013. - have a fair bit of oxidisation on the aluminium components under the rear passenger seats too. I’m hoping a brush off and acid prime will help those areas
Click to expand...
Hmmm, don't think it'll help much.
I'm with @mick 1986 Chances are that the aluminium corrosion is occurring because it is adjacent to some steel. eg a floor support or chassis fixing. It's likely that the original paint has broken down and so another barrier needs to be created.
 
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