Disco 2 Rear Ace Pipes

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Franco

Member
Posts
22
Gooday,
It is a long time since I have been on here, but hopefully some one can tell me the rear top and bottom ace pipe connections.
Had the usual leak problem where the pipes go over the chassis. Took the old pipes off breaking them at the valve as expected.
Managed to plug the outlets to drive and found some good pipes from a breakers. Used a 9mm tap to remove the broken pipe ends and then found I could not feed the two connected pipes through the chassis so had to split them to feed in one at a time.
Thought it was obvious which pipe goes where so coupled it up, lots of grease on all the pipes now, no leaks even using the old seal, drives fine, but now not sure I have the pipes the correct way and can find no schematics to show routing.
So can anyone please tell me which is which.

Thanks for any reply

Frank
 
Sorted it now.
The pipe with the 180 degree return goes to the lower valve port, I am guessing this is the low pressure pipe because it goes to the end of the ram where the piston seals are. Why would a designer over pressure seals when they can pressurise a closed end.

The pipes were connected correctly by the way !. I once thought I had made a mistake but I was wrong.

I was progressing along another way to sort my pipe problem, will post later if I get the chance.
 
Sorted it now.
The pipe with the 180 degree return goes to the lower valve port, I am guessing this is the low pressure pipe because it goes to the end of the ram where the piston seals are. Why would a designer over pressure seals when they can pressurise a closed end.

The pipes were connected correctly by the way !. I once thought I had made a mistake but I was wrong.

I was progressing along another way to sort my pipe problem, will post later if I get the chance.
both pipes to ram are high pressure its a double acting ram
 
Wrong about that then. Ace pipe suppliers appear to talk about high and low pressure pipes, must be low pressure is supply to valve block and high pressure to each side of the ram.
 
Wrong about that then. Ace pipe suppliers appear to talk about high and low pressure pipes, must be low pressure is supply to valve block and high pressure to each side of the ram.
there are 6 pipes to ace block 4 at front 2 at rear, 1 at the front s high pressure feed from pump, 1 low pressure return to reservoir 2 at front and rear high pressure feeds for double acting ram, its an open center hydraulic system,which means theres a constant flow from pump through block to the res,until valves are actuated when return is closed and rams have one side open to the pressure,the other side of ram is then open to the return and vice a versa
 
Thank's for info. I did realise once I thought about it, the force would be the same turning nearside or offside. I do like the set up and will work to keep it rather then a refit an anti roll system.
I thought the same with my old P38 air suspension and kept it going rather than shocks and springs.

These Land Rover innovations can be complex but are quite good and work well I think.
If we take them off then we might as well be driving Ford Consul's.
A good car in it's day I had one, but a bit dated now.
 
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I hate to contradict a such knowledgeable man like James but IMO the actuator has one low and one high pressure port cos it's like a kinda' syringe inside and only the side which makes it extend while cornering as to keep body level should be HP, the other side of the actuator is not supposed to be under HP cos the body reverts under it's own weight no need for high pressure then(this is just a rudimentary explanation)... if you'll watch this link http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=817973&SPRACHE=EN and open nr. 17 and 18 you'll see that one is HP the other is LP in the description even though they are built the same
 
I hate to contradict a such knowledgeable man like James but IMO the actuator has one low and one high pressure port cos it's like a kinda' syringe inside and only the side which makes it extend while cornering as to keep body level should be HP, the other side of the actuator is not supposed to be under HP cos the body reverts under it's own weight no need for high pressure then(this is just a rudimentary explanation)... if you'll watch this link http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=817973&SPRACHE=EN and open nr. 17 and 18 you'll see that one is HP the other is LP in the description even though they are built the same
you must have misread my post ,as i said its a double acting ram which has a pipe at each end, to pressurise either side of piston so each pipe is either hp or the return depending on whether ram is pushing or pulling the roll bar,so both pipes are high pressure pipes,but only one is during operation ,the only low pressure pipe is the return to res:)
 
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done my rear pipes few weeks back all seemed well bled it with nanaocom , but then next day seen fluid around the passenger side near the compressor, so not had a look yet have noticed its not swirling round in the pot anymore though and it was just after doing them, also after refilling the system and switching off it over flowed form the reservoir also been looking for a diagram for the pipe layout to rear cant find any that shows it clearly so , does the bottom pipe go to the front or rear of the ram? tia
 
done my rear pipes few weeks back all seemed well bled it with nanaocom , but then next day seen fluid around the passenger side near the compressor, so not had a look yet have noticed its not swirling round in the pot anymore though and it was just after doing them, also after refilling the system and switching off it over flowed form the reservoir also been looking for a diagram for the pipe layout to rear cant find any that shows it clearly so , does the bottom pipe go to the front or rear of the ram? tia
either pumps failed or oil cant circulate through the block
 
If the pump was not primed manually untill fluid came out from the outlet it's probably gone, that fluid overflow is another sign of that, happened to me too at the beginning when i knew nothing about that system and i relied on a schmuck mechanic who replaced the rear pipes but didnt prime the pump just simply filled the system and let me go... then i took the problem in my own hands, replac3d the pump and primed as necessary and everything's been ok since
 
might have been lucky, had another look tonight and re bled the system with nanocom with engine off, must have been air in the system as at least half the fluid in the res went and it started swirung again on restart of engine, bled it 3 times with engine on and off so may have been lucky
 
Bleeding the system is one thing and priming the pump another though if the fluid started circulating in the tank then yes, you've been lucky, the bleeding should start after the pump was previously primed
 
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