Range Rover 3.9 ltr elf in a 90 - not starting

The back story: car was running ok, jacked it up put new shocks and springs on it. Started it up wouldn’t not start so put new fuel pump on it and spark plugs started first time. Took if for a drive 30 mins into the drive the car just turned off lost like power and stalled and everything since has not wanted to start??

I don’t know what to do, somones told me to replace the idle valve but what’s that to do with it not starting?
to add I have put a new battery on it as well brand new

It shows the lights on the dashboard I wait 10 seconds then try to start it but it turns over but like no roar to get it started and engine running

car is a Land Rover 90 fitted with a Range Rover 3.9ltr engine,

sorry about my spelling and grammar in advance I know Its treble but I’m dyslexic

please could anyone help me or any comments of what to do

Are the plugs wet with petrol?
Do you have a spark at the plugs?
If you have a spark try a whiff of easystart to see if it tries to run.

Hi
Sparks r wet, getting spark but the ends are fully black only put in last week and probably started on the new spark plugs about 10 times? Is this good or bad? That they r so black

also easy start wise I put into the air intake do you recommend any into the spark plug (engine) or no?
I can’t attached a photo of the spark plugs but they have fuel on them and very black

anything eles I can try or look for?

Sounds like you have fuel.
Don't bother with the easystart - that would be if there was no fuel & if it had tried to run on easystart would point to a fuelling issue.

What about the spark?

I don't believe in coincidences & as there was no problem before you did the suspenson I suspect you've disturbed something.
If it was a RRC I'd suggest following the manual checklist but as it's a conversion it might be a bit more problematic.

ETA I wonder if repeated attempt starts might have got the plugs so wet they can't fire. Known problem with one of the Jag engines & a customer of mine had to get his recovered to the dealer to swap the plugs as one bank is easy to access but the other isn't.
Be worth drying & cleaning just to see what happens.

Ok so I’ve taken 1 spark plug off and held it on the engine when someone’s turned the key and it’s getting spark,

do you think a wire shorting? Or what?

I’ve done the checks in the manual and all are fine so I don’t have a monkey what it could be aprt from wiring then?

If you have fuel, a good strong spark & the timing's correct I've run out of options.

Only other thing that springs to mind as a common issue is the dizzy amplifier,

How do I check the timing?

it seems all good just it won’t start is this wrong then?

To be sure of the timing remove the left hand (UK nearside) rocker cover.
Rotate the engine until No1 valves are both closed & the piston is on the compression stroke.
Use a long rod in No1 plug hole & turn until it's at TDC.
Rotor arm should be pointing at plug lead 1 position.

So unplugged a wire and it started still a b it rough and took a bit of time but started after 10/15 seconds, had it running for 5 minutes then it cut out and stopped? Didn’t move it just left it alone

do you think idle valve???

any thoughts cheers

Engine stalling can be a result of a very dirty/blocked crankcase breather (flame trap), so remove and clean by soaking in petrol also check and clean, if required, the pipe to the plenum chamber.
The link will explain the idle control valve (bypass air valve) and how it can affect starting.
http://www.britishv8.org/articles/rover-14cux-efi.htm

Hi, done loads of bits and clean up parts nothing and just noticed the fuel filter is leaking it’s a cheap plastic fuel filter that was on it before, it’s leaking so I took it off staight piped it without a fuel filter to see what would happen and then dryed the spark plugs and started up in a second.

would the fuel filter that was leaking of caused this? I’m guessing it was letting air in and fuel escaping would this be 1 of my problems for it not starting? Or the main problem as it started frist time after I did that I’m guessing leaking fuel out and air getting in it’s not ideal?

also idle wise it’s a bit funky will hover around 650-800 is this correct? like will dip down to 650 then seem like it’s about to stale and go back up to 700 then sometimes 750 pushing 800 then after a minute it calm down will drop back to 650 and seems fine for 2 mins then sounds like it’s going to stale and go back up to 700 what’s that all about?
Sounds better when it idles at 800 when cold starting but when warm wanta to air 650 but sounds like it’s going to stale??

also I think it’s got a hole in the exghust is that affecting anything?

and the coil is a cheap Chinese one I’m going to put a Bosch one on this week

please let me know should I replace the stopper motor? And temp sensor and coil? And new fuel filter and see what happens then? Or anything eles anyone know why the idle is a bit werid?
Cheers

I'd guess that a leaking fuel filter would cause a pressure drop and affect the injectors (someone who does know will confirm or refute this!) but cutting out completely sounds electrical.

If it was running fine before you jacked it up to do the springs and shocks I really think a wire or an air hose has become loose; air leak would affect the idle. I can't see why the idle valve, stepper motor et al should suddenly play up.

Several threads on various fora re unsteady idle:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...tting-out-rough-idle-and-running-rich.238755/
https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/34970-39-bad-idle/
https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/3-9efi-v8-90-cold-idle-problem.154648/
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/yet-another-3-9-v8-with-rough-idle-advice-please.212453/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-1-a/132852-3-9-surging-idle.html

Posted this on your other thread (https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/v8-3-9-elf-not-starting-but-turns-over.371164/#post-5165740) but it might be better keeping the topic in this V8 specific one

Leaking fuel filter wont help the idle...exhaust wont cause any problem...have you taken it for a good blast up the road then checked the idle 800 is about right for a V8...have you checked all wiring connections and hose to see if youv'e disturbed something...took me weeks to cure a misfire and poor start on my V8 was a dodgy spade connection I disturbed and crap plugs...

I’ll update you tomorrow, new fuel filter will be fitted and look out for the new Bosch coil and stepper motor and temperature sensor

does anyone have a link for a new Bosch ingtion amplifier? I can’t find one

mill fit them parts and take if for a drive and give it some beans, last time I did that it did a huge backfire and stopped the engine? I’m guessing to much fuel into the engine or not enough as that was when I had the leaking fuel filter?? Would that cause the engine to cut out 5 minutes into a drive

also should I put some injector cleaner in? What do you recommend

cheers

Do not fit all those parts at the same time...start with filter check running...then coil check running and move on to next parts...is it firing on all cylinders? check with a spray bottle of water on exhaust manifold backfire is unburnt fuel igniting in exhaust...

How can I check with water on the exghust manifolds? What do I need to get engine started and running and spray water on each manifold to see if it’s hot? Or what sorry? Never done that

also how comes don’t change all them parts? The old parts might do the job but it’s only £70 worth for all 4 new bits and ingtion coil is rusted does work but rusted so I thought I would change that, stepper motor doesn’t look in best condition same with the temperature sensor then it need a fuel filter as the last one was leaking

if I change them is that ok? They r just old and not in the best condition they look a good 10 odd years old so if I’m doing it I might as well put new parts on

is that ok to do? Or does it play with the ecu??? If I change all them parts

Toddy99 said:

How can I check with water on the exghust manifolds? What do I need to get engine started and running and spray water on each manifold to see if it’s hot? Or what sorry? Never done that

also how comes don’t change all them parts? The old parts might do the job but it’s only £70 worth for all 4 new bits and ingtion coil is rusted does work but rusted so I thought I would change that, stepper motor doesn’t look in best condition same with the temperature sensor then it need a fuel filter as the last one was leaking

if I change them is that ok? They r just old and not in the best condition they look a good 10 odd years old so if I’m doing it I might as well put new parts on

is that ok to do? Or does it play with the ecu??? If I change all them parts

Click to expand...

Change the parts one at a time and see if it makes the engine run better if you chuck them all on and it runs OK youv'e know idea which part was faulty...when engine is running spray water on manifold at each cylinder it will evaporate v,quickly on firing cylinders can sometimes be difficult to pinpoint a misfire on a V8 which can cause rough running and back firing...

Ok I’ll change 1 part at a time leave it to run see if it changes so then I know what part it was if it does change

I’ll let you know how it goes

Hi back to the same old with a fuel filter it won’t start (very well takes about 5/6 times of trying for 10 seconds each to start) without a fuel filter it starts staight away within 2 seconds just starts up?
I’ve put a new fuel filter on it

I’ve fitted stepper motor when car starts seems like it runs better won’t stall and I’ve fitted temperature sensor, the bosh ingintion coil is out of stock have to order somewhere eles.
I’ve also changed the spark plugs 2 weeks ago, I’ve taken the air intake off so it’s getting good air

any thoughts?

cheers

Just checked the fuel pressure it’s 29psi is this the problem?? On why it’s running **** and not starting as people r saying 38psi/40

I put a new pump on and thought it would be fine but still at 29psi how comes?