Disco 1 Radio code?
- Thread starter K2tnt
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- East Dorset
My old radio doesn't look quite like this, but I would expect the code entry procedure to be much the same. I can fish it out for you as it is in the owner's handbook. But you do need the code. Sometimes you can be lucky and find some helpful person has written it on a label of something and stuck it on the radio itself. 4 number code. The radio code is tied to the original vehicle, so if you know that you should be able to get the code from Land Rover. B ut maybe some Radioshack kind of guy can get past it. I personally would not have aclue how to do that. The code was written on the little card the first owner of the vehicle got with it, along with the EKA code. If you can find the code, get back to me and I'll write how to enter it, but there may be a thread somewhere on the forums with how to do it and even how to get past the anti theft coding device.
discool
Well-Known Member
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This is a copy of how to enter the code on a CATS head unit that superseded yours, therefore the facia is different, I doubt that the method of code entry has changed, but if it has the display will still indicated that a code is required when switching on unless the code has been incorrectly entered before.
Don’t worry about the security card if you don’t have one, the head unit was a dealer fit for D1s and and as it had an option for the new owner to enter the preinstalled head unit code, if they required it... I didn’t as it was a pain on other vehicles, so my code wasn’t logged, also the card if you have one, won’t show the EKA (emergency access code) as the 200 series D1 does have that facility.
Don’t worry about the security card if you don’t have one, the head unit was a dealer fit for D1s and and as it had an option for the new owner to enter the preinstalled head unit code, if they required it... I didn’t as it was a pain on other vehicles, so my code wasn’t logged, also the card if you have one, won’t show the EKA (emergency access code) as the 200 series D1 does have that facility.
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- 45,057
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- East Dorset
Well done Discool, beat me to it. Mine also looks different to the one in your handbook, but that may be because it is from a later Disco 1, an Anniversary model. Buttons kept falling off it too, which was a pain but the worst pain was that the disc player stopped playing, so I replaced it with a new system, which is quite another story. AND the subwoofers need repair!
K2tnt, at least yours has all its buttons on. I love this old style head unit, with proper buttons and separate treble and bass control. So much better than modern ones you keep having to look at in order to adjust them.
Discool, never knew that about 200tdis not having EKA, obviously yours has, as it is on the card in the photo, so you presumably have a 300tdi, or a V8?
K2tnt, best of luck with getting the code.
K2tnt, at least yours has all its buttons on. I love this old style head unit, with proper buttons and separate treble and bass control. So much better than modern ones you keep having to look at in order to adjust them.
Discool, never knew that about 200tdis not having EKA, obviously yours has, as it is on the card in the photo, so you presumably have a 300tdi, or a V8?
K2tnt, best of luck with getting the code.
discool
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My owners handbook has the additional info on all the D1 head units that we’re available including the CATS unit
My disco was fitted with a Philips unit fitted with the Mult CD player of course being an ES it had the sub in the tailgate.
The head unit has now been replaced for a Pioneer unit and a Pioneer multi CD player in the same position under the drivers seat, also I now have a 200watt amp under the passenger that supplies a proper sub woofer in a box on the boot floor taking half of the floor, but just unplugging and lifting the box out and flicking a switch I can return back to the tailgate item when space is required.
I put up with the discos Philips kit for 8 years, and it was the best thing was to install a Pioneer kit, it’s a transformation in the sound available and the frequencies the radio side of the unit can achieve clearly, but it was a premium kit which I purchase back in 1994 for around £650 and then installed it in my RR, so whipped it out when the RR was sold put back in the boxes for 8 or so years... and forgot about as l do.
My disco was fitted with a Philips unit fitted with the Mult CD player of course being an ES it had the sub in the tailgate.
The head unit has now been replaced for a Pioneer unit and a Pioneer multi CD player in the same position under the drivers seat, also I now have a 200watt amp under the passenger that supplies a proper sub woofer in a box on the boot floor taking half of the floor, but just unplugging and lifting the box out and flicking a switch I can return back to the tailgate item when space is required.
I put up with the discos Philips kit for 8 years, and it was the best thing was to install a Pioneer kit, it’s a transformation in the sound available and the frequencies the radio side of the unit can achieve clearly, but it was a premium kit which I purchase back in 1994 for around £650 and then installed it in my RR, so whipped it out when the RR was sold put back in the boxes for 8 or so years... and forgot about as l do.
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- 45,057
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- East Dorset
Discool, no wonder that is your handle, you run a Disco in the back of your Disco! Wondering if that is why you bought it!!!!!
Replaced mine with a Blaupunkt unit and the disc player holds more than the original's 6 discs, it's 10 or 12 cannot remember, but the Sub is shot and have yet to a/ wire it in and b/ repair it. Have bought a hugely powerful amp but have also yet to wire that in too. Not so good on the electrics, even worse on sound systems, but fortunately have a grandson with a degree in something which allows him to set up sound stages at festivals, make quality studio discs and records, drive the most complex mixers etc. He looked inside the amp I bought and reckoned he could see several design faults! Bet you'll get it out now! £650 was quite serious money even back then!
Replaced mine with a Blaupunkt unit and the disc player holds more than the original's 6 discs, it's 10 or 12 cannot remember, but the Sub is shot and have yet to a/ wire it in and b/ repair it. Have bought a hugely powerful amp but have also yet to wire that in too. Not so good on the electrics, even worse on sound systems, but fortunately have a grandson with a degree in something which allows him to set up sound stages at festivals, make quality studio discs and records, drive the most complex mixers etc. He looked inside the amp I bought and reckoned he could see several design faults! Bet you'll get it out now! £650 was quite serious money even back then!
discool
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Hi, I’ve moved away from the very loud music but some sometimes it get turned up but then I’ve only 3 cartridges so total collection of 18 CDs anthems, techno, summer in Ibiza... even trance.
If the original sub amp and it’s speakers have had it, then there are s/h units on eBay some times.
But it’s easy to pick up the existing wiring that’s in the tailgate for a replacement amp, what ever the size, you will find at the rear of the tailgate two of the amp services that are required, one is the audio pair and the other is 12v amp switched supply, both of these can be extended to the location of your amp, (both of these feeds can be found at the rear of the head unit where they originated) if required.
Then all that required (depending the amp size) is the 8mm/10mm 12v+ fused supply directly from the battery to the amp location.
Then it’s just the subwoofer speaker box plus it’s pair of wires to the amp to be connected. Job done.
With the option to retain a functional tailgate amp just T into the audio and with the amp switch-on supply introduce a two-way switch into its feed, so either the tailgate is switched on, or the replacement amp is switched on.
Some thing I did around 13 years ago with the disco, and still working
If the original sub amp and it’s speakers have had it, then there are s/h units on eBay some times.
But it’s easy to pick up the existing wiring that’s in the tailgate for a replacement amp, what ever the size, you will find at the rear of the tailgate two of the amp services that are required, one is the audio pair and the other is 12v amp switched supply, both of these can be extended to the location of your amp, (both of these feeds can be found at the rear of the head unit where they originated) if required.
Then all that required (depending the amp size) is the 8mm/10mm 12v+ fused supply directly from the battery to the amp location.
Then it’s just the subwoofer speaker box plus it’s pair of wires to the amp to be connected. Job done.
With the option to retain a functional tailgate amp just T into the audio and with the amp switch-on supply introduce a two-way switch into its feed, so either the tailgate is switched on, or the replacement amp is switched on.
Some thing I did around 13 years ago with the disco, and still working
K2tnt
Well-Known Member
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- 188
Cheers thanks! Have powered it up and it does appear to ask for a code (which I don’t have!) Am looking through the places which can decode radios.
Thanks! These high end systems sound amazing- I just want my original stereo back in, know it won’t sound amazing but will look retro. Planning on getting one of those Bluetooth cassette adapters to connect to phone.
Thanks! These high end systems sound amazing- I just want my original stereo back in, know it won’t sound amazing but will look retro. Planning on getting one of those Bluetooth cassette adapters to connect to phone.
- Posts
- 45,057
- Location
- East Dorset
Hi, I’ve moved away from the very loud music but some sometimes it get turned up but then I’ve only 3 cartridges so total collection of 18 CDs anthems, techno, summer in Ibiza... even trance.
If the original sub amp and it’s speakers have had it, then there are s/h units on eBay some times.
But it’s easy to pick up the existing wiring that’s in the tailgate for a replacement amp, what ever the size, you will find at the rear of the tailgate two of the amp services that are required, one is the audio pair and the other is 12v amp switched supply, both of these can be extended to the location of your amp, (both of these feeds can be found at the rear of the head unit where they originated) if required.
Then all that required (depending the amp size) is the 8mm/10mm 12v+ fused supply directly from the battery to the amp location.
Then it’s just the subwoofer speaker box plus it’s pair of wires to the amp to be connected. Job done.
With the option to retain a functional tailgate amp just T into the audio and with the amp switch-on supply introduce a two-way switch into its feed, so either the tailgate is switched on, or the replacement amp is switched on.
Some thing I did around 13 years ago with the disco, and still working
The sub is OK and there are kits available to mend the speakers, just have to get around to fixing them. But way down the list at the moment.
Thanks for all the wiring info, it will be good when I do get around to all this.
