QUESTION FOR CHANGING GEAR DEFENDER 90 TD5

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Tom2068

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8
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kent
Hi. I have no previous experience driving a Land Rover. I recently purchased my Defender 90 2006 TD5 vehicle and find the operation of changing gear quite poor.

I find it particularly when changing down from 3rd to 2nd, I have to force it in. Also, when changing up the box from 3rd to 4th, if I change to quick sometimes its as if the gears just 'grate' a bit before it goes in.

I generally have changed my driving to quite a bit slower. I took it to a Land Rover and one of their technicians took it out and said it was fine. But....

My question is, is this just typical of this vehicle?

Cheers. Tom
 
Something tells me you wouldn't enjoy double declutching a Series crash box :eek::D

Whether it's typical is difficult to say as we've no idea what you're comparing it with.
Hi. I used to drive a transit. Ive been driving for about 30 years, few different vans, etc. I just find I'm almost 'nursing' the gears in when I change. A bit like as if the clutch wasnt disengaging enough. The clutch was changed about 2 years ago apparently. 4th and 5th seem fine.
 
whats it like if you sit with your foot on the clutch then try rev and first, if it selects reasonable clutch is clearing ok , if thats fine change oil if that makes no difference you need new baulk rings
 
I've had three TD5 Defenders, one from new.
The gearbox doesn't like fast changes. You are best to pause for a moment between gears. So for instance rather than 1-2, 2-3 try 1-and-2, 2-and-3 etc
My 110 doesn't like being rushed between 2/3 and our 90 (bought new) never liked fast changes from 1-2. Somebody l know also bought a new 90 at the time, had the same issue, and repeatedly threw it back at the dealer, until eventually they replaced the gear box and it was no better.
All three of my TD5's don't like to select second gear when cold (OK after a few hundred yards!)

As suggested above, also check for first gear engagement while stationary. If it baulks then it's probably needing a new clutch. And change the gearbox oil.
 
whats it like if you sit with your foot on the clutch then try rev and first, if it selects reasonable clutch is clearing ok , if thats fine change oil if that makes no difference you need new baulk rings
whats it like if you sit with your foot on the clutch then try rev and first, if it selects reasonable clutch is clearing ok , if thats fine change oil if that makes no difference you need new baulk rings
Hi James. I'll try it. But just to make sure, I need to depress clutch fully, give it a bit a throttle and select first at the same time. And what should happen is that first should be selected without a problem. Is that correct?
 
Hi James. I'll try it. But just to make sure, I need to depress clutch fully, give it a bit a throttle and select first at the same time. And what should happen is that first should be selected without a problem. Is that correct?
you dont any throttle just to be able to select rev and st with clutch fully down several times
 
Got a similar thing with my 300TDI. Second needs a real push to the left or it won't go going 3 - 2 (particularly when cold) and I've had to "learn" where fourth is when
changing up or down often feeling my way in (as it were :p, and I'm sure the sod moves it a bit to left or right at random). Oil change throughout for Christmas. :D
 
Got a similar thing with my 300TDI. Second needs a real push to the left or it won't go going 3 - 2 (particularly when cold) and I've had to "learn" where fourth is when
changing up or down often feeling my way in (as it were :p, and I'm sure the sod moves it a bit to left or right at random). Oil change throughout for Christmas. :D
yours sounds like the ball and housing are worn or bias springs arent set quite right, bias springs should leave stick in 3rd 4th alignment
 
I've had three TD5 Defenders, one from new.
The gearbox doesn't like fast changes. You are best to pause for a moment between gears. So for instance rather than 1-2, 2-3 try 1-and-2, 2-and-3 etc
My 110 doesn't like being rushed between 2/3 and our 90 (bought new) never liked fast changes from 1-2. Somebody l know also bought a new 90 at the time, had the same issue, and repeatedly threw it back at the dealer, until eventually they replaced the gear box and it was no better.
All three of my TD5's don't like to select second gear when cold (OK after a few hundred yards!)

As suggested above, also check for first gear engagement while stationary. If it baulks then it's probably needing a new clutch. And change the gearbox oil.
My disco is stiff on that too, the 90 was too till I swapped the gear oil, some were filled incorrectly with atf, mtf94 I think was the better option. Removed it on 90 not done the disco yet, lacking time and effort
 
I've had three TD5 Defenders, one from new.
The gearbox doesn't like fast changes. You are best to pause for a moment between gears. So for instance rather than 1-2, 2-3 try 1-and-2, 2-and-3 etc
My 110 doesn't like being rushed between 2/3 and our 90 (bought new) never liked fast changes from 1-2. Somebody l know also bought a new 90 at the time, had the same issue, and repeatedly threw it back at the dealer, until eventually they replaced the gear box and it was no better.
All three of my TD5's don't like to select second gear when cold (OK after a few hundred yards!)

As suggested above, also check for first gear engagement while stationary. If it baulks then it's probably needing a new clutch. And change the gearbox oil.
Hi. Thanks for info.
 
originally the box was deisgned using atf dexron 2 later they changed to mtf94 either oil might suit the baulk rings the best, youll only know by trying both
 
my td5 was horrible on mtf. I had it rebuilt by a specialist and they told me to run it in on mtg amd swap to hard after 1000miles
they told me it' better on the syncros, it is certainly quieer and easier to select 2nd and 3rd
 
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