Not sure what you mean about it being jammed, the rod can't jam. The push rod should have a lot of play, because it's only held at the end by a clip on the fork and will go up and down and side to side, HOWEVER it should have not have play back and forth really (don't pull too hard it will come off and it a little difficult to refit), if you push it you should meet resistance almost immediatly as it acts on the clutch cover via the fork. If it does go in and seems that the fork is just swinging about then I would say it has probably punched through the pivot point.
I posted this a few day ago for someone else who was having a clutch issue...
"Yes - there is a clutch release fork, no membrane just thin metal that pivots on a pin. Google "land rover clutch release fork" and look at the images, if you look closely you will see a small round indent - most fitted are just pressed steel and will eventually wear through and the fork can no longer pivot and bye bye clutch. Cost for part - under a £10 - it should really be done everytime the clutch is done - when I have it all in pieces it's getting EVERYTHING. Fork, release bearing, spigot bush, cover and driven plate should really all be done when the lot is stripped down.
I would first check that the hydraulics are working, first check the master for any signs of leakage and check that their is fluid in the master, then check the slave (down on the gearbox bell housing, small cylinder with oval flange with a pipe going into it and a bleed nipple) for leaks around the unions etc, is there any sign of fluid coming out the bottom of the engine, bellhousing?
Also check the damper (should be fitted to yours) this is on the clutch line just above cylinder - again check for leaks.
Next I would sugest you withdraw the slave - it is on a flexipipe so the pipework can remain connected - be careful when you remove this as there is a pin which is clipped to the fork - you want that to stay there (it can be diffucult to fit it back in if it falls out). Torch and mirror would be handy now, have a look into the bellhousing where the metal rod that went into the slave goes that is one end of the fork, look up that about 4 inches (you may need mirror can't remember if you can see it or not) and look at the middle, does it look like the pivot rod has broken through, is there twisted metal and holes? Does the fork swing about and appear to have no resistance? Then it's probably the fork.
If not, then it's probably going to be hydraulics. Take the little rubber cap off the slave and get a small piece of wood. With the cap off you can see the piston - have someone press the clutch a small amount, I repeat small, while you push the piston back as hard as you can, have them increase the pressure on the clutch untill you feel the piston start trying to push the wood out, watching the piston have your clutcher keep pushing while you hold the wood until the piston is about 1cm from the end of the cylinder - if it manages all that I would say that the hyraulics are OK and it may be broken clutch cover - do you know if this was done when your clutch was done or did they just do the plate?
Anyway - if it is the fork then it will need the gearbox/engine split and a new fork fitted, as said part is cheap, 4 hours in labour though!"
