Prop shaft/ transmission brake

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W-Hamish

Member
Posts
18
Location
Wiltshire
Hi guys, I'm hoping you may be able to offer some insight into a few problems I ran into today when removing the rear prop from my series 3 88 to replace a UJ.

Since I bought the vehicle there has Been an oil leak from where the yoke of the prop shaft blots onto the transmission brake, however on removal of the prop there was a fair bit of oil which dribbled out (no gasket or seal between the two), and when removed it revealed that under where the yolk is bolted and when I assume there should be a castellated nut (is that the right name) is a large mess of welding.... I take it this is not normal, any ideas when the previous owner would have done this???!

Also, any ideas as to the part numbers of the washer and seal which are under the collar which connects the two ends of the props shaft and allows the splines to slide? As both were cracked and looking a bit worse for wear!

Cheers, any help appreciated!!!!
 
I think the bit you are on about is a splined shaft?
Splines stripped, weld on flange ala bodge and the welding heat has melted the oil seal behind.
All guess work though, not fiddled in that area for years .
 
I knew it looked a bit suspicious! I have attached (I hope) I photog which hopefully compliments to poor description!

That link looks very useful, that's my evening sorted....;)
 

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The shaft the output flange is mounted on looks like it has been cut down in length as well. I foresee much swearing in your future.
 
Ah, sounds like fun on the horizon then.....I knew it was going downhill when I realised the state of the UJ I was replacing....

I take it this is the cause of the oil leak from the transmission brake housing? Echoing Land Raver, what would you guys do now, any idea of the parts which have been damaged and need replacing/ repairing?

Cheers guys, I may be in need of some counselling soon....:confused:
 
Also just to add as a note of caution to those reading this, the above is only one of a number of problems I have uncovered so far on a vehicle which currently has an MOT, and looked perfectly passable on first inspection
 
Ah, sounds like fun on the horizon then. Echoing Land Raver, what would you guys do now, any idea of the parts which have been damaged and need replacing/ repairing?.

Id start with a new chassis, engine and gearbox. Throw in new running gear and work from there. :eek:

I have yet to enter the world of big moving parts. If mine gets me round the block I refuse to delve any further. The very best of luck, you may need it.

The easy 'er' option may be a replacement transfer box.:(
 
I have found this diagram in Haynes of what it should look like- I'll have a further poke around today and update with the latest horrors lol
 
yep thats what she should look like, i would start with taking the drum off first and see what the splined flange looks like from behind, and get a oxy cutter and cut the weld away and have some sort of cooling source to cool down the transfer case or some other method of cutting that part off, at worst you may need a out put shaft and another splined flange, and some seals.

Tony.
 
Started removing trans brake, that will be why the handbrake wasn't too effective, the entir drum is packed with oil and grease
 

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Hi guys, as I don't have an oxy torch available I am thinking on using a drill and cold chisel to try and sepertate the components (prob a bit tight for the grinder), can you think of any better alternatives? Bear in mind this is under the landy and attached to the transfer box.....

Also I am certain to damage the plate which the brake drum bolts to and will need a new output shaft- does anyone have part numbers for these items ????

Many thanks, I'm not looking forward to this!
 
A dremel might get at it but too tight for a grinder. I only bought a dremel earlier this year and have been impressed how useful it is on the Land Rover. The little cutting discs work very well
 
To change the output shaft you have to remove front output casing , which means you have to remove either gearbox or transfer case from the chassis.
I would remove and then you can cut through whole flange between case and output flange with a 9" grinder , or take it somewhere that has oyx / acet to burn it off for you.
 
To change the output shaft you have to remove front output casing , which means you have to remove either gearbox or transfer case from the chassis.
I would remove and then you can cut through whole flange between case and output flange with a 9" grinder , or take it somewhere that has oyx / acet to burn it off for you.

Yes, transfer box out and get savage.
 
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