Painting a Landy by hand

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biker1981

New Member
Posts
115
Location
County Durham
Hi all,

I have got some coach paint which is the correct colour for my series 3.

I have painted a few little bits on the bulkhead, and its a good match and dry quite nice.

I'm tempted to do the rest of the landy, but dont want it to look to shiny or brush strokes.

does anyone have any tips?

I wondered if i painted it then use some really fine wet and dry paper in it weather that would take any minor brush marks out?

Also do i just key the paint work, or should i use some acid etc primer?

any help apprecaited
 
Done a series a few years back with 2 pack paint mixed up the same way as military paint as they are hand painted out in the field when repaired, it turned out really nice,
 
Use the small short haired gloss rollers.

When using brushes use top quality brushes, and look after them.

When applying the paint particularly with the roller, apply it in thin coats, and build them up. Allow the paint to harden between coats, ideally a good few days, and flat it with wet and dry before painting over. If needs be, thin the paint a bit (usually with turps) to help it flow/self flat.

Oh and lastly. Try and paint panels horizontally rather than vertically if possible.

Mark
 
Use the small short haired gloss rollers.

When using brushes use top quality brushes, and look after them.

When applying the paint particularly with the roller, apply it in thin coats, and build them up. Allow the paint to harden between coats, ideally a good few days, and flat it with wet and dry before painting over. If needs be, thin the paint a bit (usually with turps) to help it flow/self flat.

Oh and lastly. Try and paint panels horizontally rather than vertically if possible.

Mark


Sounds good, so are the gloss rollers the spunge ones, or the ones with hair?

When I have finished do I flattern with wet and dry on the last coat?
 
The rollers I used are the short hair ones.

Probably not necessary to flat after the last coat. If you do, you'll end up with a lot of very fine sanding & polishing to do.

Mark
 
cool,

With regards to prep, the body is great, do i just scotch pad it? and do i need acid etc primer, or just straight on with the paint?
 
Tick is to mask up as if you were spraying then get it on with a roller as quick as you can - you'll be amazed at the finish but you do need a warm garage :)
 
It will prevent corrosion yes, but also, Aluminium oxidises quickly and doesnt give a good base to paint.

If your'e painted metal finish is sound, you don't need to clean down to bare metal. Only if its shoddy and you need to do repairs/filling.
 
cool,

With regards to prep, the body is great, do i just scotch pad it? and do i need acid etc primer, or just straight on with the paint?

if your just going to key the paint there shouldnt be a need for etch primer. have read a few threads on here and the sponge roller gets the majority vote along with keeping it warm if possible.

Just out of interest where did you get the paint and how much was it? i'm not far from you but when I rang around smith&allen wouldnt supply it and the place they sent me too didnt stock it.

found some tractor paint on ebay but would rather get it locally if possible.
 
I'm about to tackle mine with coachpaint soon. Remeber you canmix with quick drying thinners & spray it.

I've painted a number of boats with single pack paint. We found the trick is to roller in one direction and then tip it off using a foam rush in the other direction.
Next coat roller (same dircetion as last tipped) and then tip off in other direction. Many thin coats cured and flat back with wet & dry in between. Ok so a boat is a large flattish surface and a landy has many nooks & crannies.
 
Just out of interest where did you get the paint and how much was it? i'm not far from you but when I rang around smith&allen wouldnt supply it and the place they sent me too didnt stock it.
Jawel Paints, is who I bought from. I said it was Landy ivory - they said ok thats Limestone. £88 2.5l grey 2.5l Ivory, 1l primer, 5l thinners
 
if your just going to key the paint there shouldnt be a need for etch primer. have read a few threads on here and the sponge roller gets the majority vote along with keeping it warm if possible.

Just out of interest where did you get the paint and how much was it? i'm not far from you but when I rang around smith&allen wouldnt supply it and the place they sent me too didnt stock it.

found some tractor paint on ebay but would rather get it locally if possible.

I just bought it from ebay.. it's called a "alternative to marrine blue" I was dubious but at £11.00 for a litre thought was worth a bash, was quite impressed with it. Drives very well and is a great colour. They might do other colours? five them a try.. drop me a message if you cant find it on ebay and I can send you the link
 
If your paints in good nick, you can rub it down with a medium scotchpad and finish with a fine one.
You will need a good quality brush for the fiddly bits and a short pile gloss roller with spare sleeves. I use 2-3 sleeves when I do 110.
When I paint a landy, I take the bonnet off and do that first.

All below painted with a roller;

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I did'nt even prime this 90, I have never used primer TBH;
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MY 110 in old colour scheme;
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And now;

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rambo004.jpg

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