p38 tailgate button internal spring

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I can't find anyone who sells a suitable spring, new switch is about £40! I made a spring out of piano wire from the local model airplane shop. Another piece of crap design.
 
hi all, i am new to the 'forum' and frankly fairly clueless when it comes to numerous things but none less than cars etc

our P38 tailgate button depresses (as in pushes in rather than places me in a state of despair) but will not activate whatever it is that opens the tailgate

i have read a couple of the questions on here but still have two questions please -

1. does the fact that the button depresses negate the likelihood that the issue is the spring and point instead to the door-locking?

2. how do i open the tailgate to take out and check the button (get ready for it) given that we have a full, semi-rigid, boot tray which of course we cannot remove to access the tailgate panel before opening the tailgate


also, on i guess a separate but possibly linked query - on occasion, door locking/unlocking will activate when vehicle just sitting there or driving along

any pointers, especially in very simple terms, would be appreciated

phil
 
hi all, i am new to the 'forum' and frankly fairly clueless when it comes to numerous things but none less than cars etc

our P38 tailgate button depresses (as in pushes in rather than places me in a state of despair) but will not activate whatever it is that opens the tailgate

i have read a couple of the questions on here but still have two questions please -

1. does the fact that the button depresses negate the likelihood that the issue is the spring and point instead to the door-locking?

2. how do i open the tailgate to take out and check the button (get ready for it) given that we have a full, semi-rigid, boot tray which of course we cannot remove to access the tailgate panel before opening the tailgate


also, on i guess a separate but possibly linked query - on occasion, door locking/unlocking will activate when vehicle just sitting there or driving along

any pointers, especially in very simple terms, would be appreciated

phil
Does the button pop back out again?? if so, spring is Good!!

I would say your issue lies with a duff RF Unit as it sounds like it is firing the locks randomly - a site search on here will reveal a myriad of posts about it...best change it before it a) Drains your Battery and b) Burns out your lock motors!

As for the button not unlocking your tailgate, That could be a duff lock motor, blown fuse, dodgy wiring or duff switch....

Only way to check is to get the tail open, soundlike like you could be on a sticky wicket with trying to get to it!

My first option would be to get hold of the RAVE manuals and find the electrical schematic for your year of vehicle.....

Find the Tailgate Button wire that will lead to the BeCM no doubt, strip a bit of insulation off and ground it to simulate pressing of the button, if the lock still doesnt pop open, this indicates either a duff motor, of broken wire...

Now obviously the Tailgate won't unlock if the BeCM thinks the vehicle is still locked, so when you open the vehicle using the Fob, does it correctly activate the central locking??
 
My tailgate button sometimes doesn't work, but on the panel in the boot where the sat nav computer is mounted, next to the rear seat release I have another little button that does operate the tailgate.

Was this a standard feature at all? or more likely something someone added to enable boot access when the standard tailgate switch was playing up?

I've also had the odd bout of random locking/unlocking. Time to bite the bullet and get the new RF module you think?
 
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My tailgate button sometimes doesn't work, but on the panel in the boot where the sat nav computer is mounted, next to the rear seat release I have another little button that does operate the tailgate.

Was this a standard feature at all? or more likely something someone added to enable boot access when the standard tailgate switch was playing up?

I've also had the odd bout of random locking/unlocking. Time to bite the billet and get the new RF module you think?
Bite that Bullet....

Also that secondary switch is no doubt a mod, never heard of or seen an internal release, except for some Overfinch models with the 7 Seat Option!
 
hi all, i am new to the 'forum' and frankly fairly clueless when it comes to numerous things but none less than cars etc

our P38 tailgate button depresses (as in pushes in rather than places me in a state of despair) but will not activate whatever it is that opens the tailgate

i have read a couple of the questions on here but still have two questions please -

1. does the fact that the button depresses negate the likelihood that the issue is the spring and point instead to the door-locking?

2. how do i open the tailgate to take out and check the button (get ready for it) given that we have a full, semi-rigid, boot tray which of course we cannot remove to access the tailgate panel before opening the tailgate


also, on i guess a separate but possibly linked query - on occasion, door locking/unlocking will activate when vehicle just sitting there or driving along

any pointers, especially in very simple terms, would be appreciated

phil

Tip the rear seats forward, move the boot liner forward, climb in and remove card from tailgate, open tailgate manually, then look for the cause.
 
My tailgate button sometimes doesn't work, but on the panel in the boot where the sat nav computer is mounted, next to the rear seat release I have another little button that does operate the tailgate.

Was this a standard feature at all? or more likely something someone added to enable boot access when the standard tailgate switch was playing up?

I've also had the odd bout of random locking/unlocking. Time to bite the bullet and get the new RF module you think?

Not necessarily.

If the locking/unlocking happens as you are driving then you are another victim of the P38 poltergeist. Some (including me) think that it's something in the lock mechanism, probably in the driver's door. I just can't recreate it when I want or find the b*****y thing. Mine has being doing this ever sine I've had it with no other ill effects.

If, however, it's happening with the car parked up then I'd be looking at the RF unit but even then I'd open the one you've got to check that it hasn't already been changed. You'll find pictures of the internals on previous threads on RF problems.
 
I'm not aware of the locking any unlocking by itself when parked, but it has done it occasionally while driving. My wife locked her door the time it really was going crazy and it stopped. I might check out which RF unit I have installed anyway.
 
I'm not aware of the locking any unlocking by itself when parked, but it has done it occasionally while driving. My wife locked her door the time it really was going crazy and it stopped. I might check out which RF unit I have installed anyway.

Car locking and unlocking as you drive is maybe a badly adjusted or fitted or loose door internal lock button.
 
Spring on mine was rusted away too.
I used a square of yellow foam cut from a sponge, and pushed it into the silver button, when you put it back together it pushes against the top of the switch bit.
Springs back and forewards perfectly.
 
I'm not aware of the locking any unlocking by itself when parked, but it has done it occasionally while driving. My wife locked her door the time it really was going crazy and it stopped. I might check out which RF unit I have installed anyway.
Mine does it occasionally, opening and slaming shut the tailgate cures it.
 
I have developed a service kit for the tailgate button comprising a new stainless steel tension spring and a nitrile 'o' ring if anyone's interested. Listed on ebay
eBay item number:
192565443123
 
I have developed a service kit for the tailgate button comprising a new stainless steel tension spring and a nitrile 'o' ring if anyone's interested. Listed on ebay
eBay item number:
192565443123
I've developed a low cost replacement using a water and frost proof button that looks much like the original, no charge, anyone can buy the button from CPC, it's a simple job to fit.
 
Not necessarily.

If the locking/unlocking happens as you are driving then you are another victim of the P38 poltergeist. Some (including me) think that it's something in the lock mechanism, probably in the driver's door. I just can't recreate it when I want or find the b*****y thing. Mine has being doing this ever sine I've had it with no other ill effects.

If, however, it's happening with the car parked up then I'd be looking at the RF unit but even then I'd open the one you've got to check that it hasn't already been changed. You'll find pictures of the internals on previous threads on RF problems.
Until the week before last I had the P38 poltergeist that traveled with me on every journey. Bumps in the road, drivers window operation would result in all doors being locked and unlocked. It even did it while sitting unoccupied on my driveway while I was working in my workshop.
My first stab at a fix was putting a jog-unit on 317Mhz in the car to prevent the P38 RF-Unit bug from striking. The Jog-unit was £7 compared to £200+ for a new RF unit. It was a partial success but the battery still dropped volts faster than I would like.
Then I changed the drivers door-latch (which changes all the switches) problem gone! :D
I have been monitoring my battery voltage since the change and it appears to me that the old-latch and switches must have been drawing more current at various times because now I don't get a weak/flat battery indication after 18 to 36 hours of being parked up and locked closed. YMMV and your Poltergeist may need the intervention of a priest or some other person with powerful Ju-Ju. :D
 
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