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P38 Diesel Warning Light/Check Engine

Discussion in 'Range Rover' started by cmcintosh, Jul 31, 2012.

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  1. cmcintosh

    cmcintosh New Member

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    Hi

    I'm based in East Lothian, Scotland and I have a 96 diesel RR P38. I have an ongoing problem, i hope its not a major one, but one that is bothering me all the same!

    I have a warning light coming on occasionally. I believe it to be the "check engine" light which looks like a picture of the end of an injector complete with spray pattern.

    It comes on when it should with the ignition and then goes out again as it should when the engine starts.

    The issue that I have is that the warning light flashes on for a fraction of a second and the engine seems to "die" a little bit, but then runs fine.

    It usually happens when changing gear (its a manual) when the revs drop. Also sometimes happens when lifting off sharply but staying in gear.

    It seems to only do it when the engine is cold, or at least its certainly worse.

    Anyone got any clues or help on this issue?

    Hope someone can help, as i think it may be getting worse!
    *
    Cheers

    Chris
     
  2. wammers

    wammers STILL BREATHING. Donater

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    A few things can cause check lamp to come on. But in those circumstances it is possibly the fuel quantity solenoid dropping back beyond it's normal closed position due to a worn stop. Someone on here took top off pump and reset to stop which cured that. So it does seem a reasonable assumption that is the problem. Don't even think about playing with pump unless you really know what you are doing.
     
  3. cmcintosh

    cmcintosh New Member

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    thanks for the advice. i'm not that technically gifted so i'll leave it to the experts. sounds like its going to cost a bit! thanks again
     
  4. aerofabrique

    aerofabrique New Member

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    Same happens on mine...

    I managed to overcome the problem by driving like a diesel driver..\

    Keep you foot lightly on the accelerator while changing gear, this keeps the turbo spooled up so you don't get horrible lag, and keep the fuel flowing in and the gear changes are so much smoother. Driving these like a manual petrol doesn't work.

    However when I then step into the hire car I get for work usually a "fiesta or similar size" you notice the difference in your driving style. Changing gear in these you forget to lift and feel slightly embarrassed by everyone looking at you rev the guts out of it.

    Takes a while to get used to but once you've done it for a a few weeks you will barely notice it/have to think about it and the drive is much better. Don't lift sharply either....dip the clutch first keep the fuel in and slowly release. Obviously dont think about it too much or try all this in an emergency.

    Going on what wammers said, when you first start and start giving it a rythmic rev by tapping the throttle does it feel like its going to stall every time the revs drops? This will also confirm the diagnosis above. Injection pumps are expensive so if you can just change your driving stye to see if it helps.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012
  5. Datatek

    Datatek Well-Known Member

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    I've had one over here doing exactly that, on diagnostics live data it was clear that the signal from the needle lift sensor was disappearing in time with the light coming on. Naturally the owner never came back to me to confirm if the needle lift sensor was the actual problem.
     
  6. wammers

    wammers STILL BREATHING. Donater

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    Mine illuminates the check lamp on throttle release. No adverse engine running but it does stall at low speed very rarely for no apparent reason. It has had a new number four injector and still does it. Can't check function of that with my Nanocom as it still reads a stupid 3000 rpm plus on lift sensor. About time they sorted that. But have not looked at updates for a while maybe they have. Could be something to do with idle switch in throttle potentiometer but that reads ok on diag. So next time i get a moment may have a look at adjusting quantity solenoid stop. Which is effectively the throttle stop and see if that cures it.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012
  7. cmcintosh

    cmcintosh New Member

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    thanks for the advice guys. i'll try changing my driving style, now that you mention it, when ever you are driving and taking it easy (non petrol driving!) i do notice it never happens. i was also told to change the battery as it may not be getting enough power to the ECM. Any advice on this? I also have a new fuel filter to be put on, to see if this helps. As you can probably tell i have limited experience with this and so any advice is more than welcome. Im in East Lothian and i dont know of any one around here that looks after P38's.

    Cheers

    Chris
     
  8. cmcintosh

    cmcintosh New Member

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    sorry forgot to add...

    when i start the engine, it doesn't really feel like its going to drop enough to stall. although when i pull up to a set of lights, i can feel the revs drop really low and then come back up again, does it about 3 times before it settles just below 1000rpm. Is this what you were talking about areofabrique?
     
  9. wammers

    wammers STILL BREATHING. Donater

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    Engine should be ticking over at 750 +- 50rpm. 1000 is to fast. Get it on diagnostics and see if any faults are logged.
     
  10. cmcintosh

    cmcintosh New Member

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    yeah its sitting around there. right on the last point before 1000rpm. which is right around 750. sorry should have been more specific.
     
  11. aerofabrique

    aerofabrique New Member

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    Kind of although my method was to force the stall by tapping the acelerator to move the needle to just above the 1000 mark then removing your foot quickly about 10ish times. Doesnt matter though as it does sound like the fuel control is worn past it stops as wammers mentioned previoslusly.

    Might be worth a plug in with some land rover specialist/indepentant with testbok/t4 or autologic or worst case main dealer. However be prepared to not find out anything apart from what you already know.

    Repairing the problem if it is the fuel stop is costly in both parts and labour as its easy to f up if you start tinkering wih the pump yourself. if you can live with it, like it appears a few of us do, this would be your best option.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2012
  12. wammers

    wammers STILL BREATHING. Donater

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    That is 750 then and ok.
     
  13. cmcintosh

    cmcintosh New Member

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    areofabrique - yeah its fine was just worried it was something major. can live with it, and will change the fule filters and put a new battery in (as ive been recommended to do by others).

    Wammers - thanks for your advice as well.

    cheers

    chris
     
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