Ok the final word on what engine oil for TD5?
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Shifty1962
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I use Castrol GTX 10W-40 for Diesel engines in my TD5 with no problems.
Engine Oil and Lubricants Castrol UK - Castrol GTX Diesel 10W-40 B3
Tesco were selling 4 litre pots for £11.95 last week so I bought 20 litres. Halfrauds have it for £19.99
Castrol GTX Diesel 10W40 Oil 4 Litre from Halfords Price £19.99
Engine Oil and Lubricants Castrol UK - Castrol GTX Diesel 10W-40 B3
Tesco were selling 4 litre pots for £11.95 last week so I bought 20 litres. Halfrauds have it for £19.99
Castrol GTX Diesel 10W40 Oil 4 Litre from Halfords Price £19.99
BuzzLand
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Cheers Shiftster!
How many litres does it take to fill your engine up?
The book says a staggering 7.2 litres!!!
ratty
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Shifty1962
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Change both filters when you do the oil change.
Don't forget you can tip the used oil into your fuel tank which will save you a few quid and save having to take it to your recycling depot.
Just filter any lumps out and tip it in to at least half a tank of diesel and its worth about £7.50 at todays prices or 40 miles of free motoring @ 25mpg.
Don't forget you can tip the used oil into your fuel tank which will save you a few quid and save having to take it to your recycling depot.
Just filter any lumps out and tip it in to at least half a tank of diesel and its worth about £7.50 at todays prices or 40 miles of free motoring @ 25mpg.
BuzzLand
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Cheers but I've got a question!
Both filters?
Surely you mean just the oil fiter? Why change the fuel filter on an oil change?
I've changed the oil filter.
Galen
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There are two oil filters on a TD5. One rotary and one spin on.
Shifty1962
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The TD5 has a centifugal oil filter to take out the smaller bits that a normal oil filter cant catch. I believe it filters down to less than 10 microns.
It sits inside the casing just below and in front of the turbo.
Undo the two 10mm bolts and lift off the top. The centriguge will then lift out.
Make sure the new one spins (some cheaper filters bind on the spindle) before using a new cover gasket to put it all back together.
It sits inside the casing just below and in front of the turbo.
Undo the two 10mm bolts and lift off the top. The centriguge will then lift out.
Make sure the new one spins (some cheaper filters bind on the spindle) before using a new cover gasket to put it all back together.
stevetd5
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I use castrol edge sport 5w40 recommended by lr mechanic also as suggested above change centrifugal also. Use original lr part as some not to same tolerance should hear it spin down when engine shut off.
jzcktv
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Don't forget the fuel filter so thats 3 per service and the gearbox oil at 25k intervals.
BuzzLand
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Bloody hell!
I've done the oil change and only changed the one filter underneath!
I'm gonna bang my head off the wall for 5 minutes I think!
Is this centifugal filter the same size / type as the oil filter I've fitted underneath the engine?
If not where's best to buy it?
Am I going to have to drain the entire tank to change this or is that a silly question?
Cheers for the help on this folks.
Galen
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Shifty1962
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You can change it without draining any oil.
You may get a drip or two when you lift the old one out but nothing to worry about. It does not stay full of oil like the cartridge filter does.
Get one from LR. It will only take you 10 minutes or so to change. Dont over tighten the rotor casing bolts. Make sure the new one spins easily on its spindle and you're good to go.
You may get a drip or two when you lift the old one out but nothing to worry about. It does not stay full of oil like the cartridge filter does.
Get one from LR. It will only take you 10 minutes or so to change. Dont over tighten the rotor casing bolts. Make sure the new one spins easily on its spindle and you're good to go.
BuzzLand
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Had a quick look in the engine bay and can't find this elusive centrifuge filter.
however I buzzed some pics to see if you guys could point it out...
Is this it? Nice and easy to get to. A bit close to the throttle gizmos though...
What about dead centre on this pic? Looks similar but somehow awkward to get to...
however I buzzed some pics to see if you guys could point it out...
Is this it? Nice and easy to get to. A bit close to the throttle gizmos though...
What about dead centre on this pic? Looks similar but somehow awkward to get to...
Shifty1962
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Are those pictures of a TD5?
Trewey
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I think CharlesY had the final word back along......
Oil
People get all excited about oil grades, so they get ripped off by the oil sellers who make BIG BUCKS selling ridiculously expensive potions in fancy plastic bottles.
My oil comes in a big steel barrel, 210 litres at a time. No messing!
Engine oil is engine oil. Start there.
Next, is it a petrol engine or a diesel?
Petrol engines get the crappy puny left-overs oils because they work under a lot less strain, and don't get polluted with carbon black.
Diesel engines get tougher grades of oil because these engines work harder all the time and there's a lot more carbon black gets into it down past the piston rings.
So diesel engine oils are far better oils, for ALL engines, petrol or diesel.
The grades to use hardly matters at all as long as it is an ENGINE oil. You will probably destroy your engine if you fill the sump with EP140 axle oil for example, but any engine oil with more or less any combination of SAE grades from 5 to 50 with or without a W is going to be just dandy,
In really REALLY cold weather a LOW grade number will make starting slightly easier especially if is has a W too, such as 10W-40 or even thinner, 5W-30 for instance.
In the summer, maybe a 20-50 would be good, with or without the W.
But, DO NOT GET NEUROTIC and DO NOT GET RIPPED OFF!
Choose a good basic grade of oil such as any of the tractor universals with a grade of about 15W/40 and off you go knowing you are using the best there is and not getting robbed.
When you think of the abuse farmers give their diesel engines, you can be sure the oil people supply the best of stuff!
Just repeat after me - "Fully synthetic oils are NOT better lubricants. They just cost ten times as much and last up to twice as long".
The maths isn't that difficult to work out.
Basically oils have a grade number that says how thick (or runny) it is at a certain temperature. I think the SAE oils were tested at 60°F. SAE is the USA Society of Automotive Engineers.
So, a SAE 30 grade oil is runnier than a SAE 40 grade, which would be a little thinner than a SAE 50. SAE 50 would be thicker than SAE 40 or any grade number less.
Now then, long ago in the early days of motoring in VERY COLD temperatures some oils tended to get far too THICK compared to other oils even of the same basic SAE grade, and engines were often so gummed up by thick gooey oil they would not even start. I have experienced that in my early motorbike days. My Triumph 500 GP was a brute to kick-start if SAE 40 oil was in the tank even though it had a "dry sump". The oil was like syrup in cold weather.
In those days there were no so-called "multi-grade" oils, and most cars would be given clean oil every 3,000 miles, using a SAE 20 in winter and a SAE 40 in the summer. These oils were later called MONO grade oils. Chancers used SAE 30 all the time.
The oil companies put their brains in top gear and worked out ways to make oils that stayed thin (like a SAE 20) when cold and stayed quite thick (like a SAE 40) when hot. These oils behaved as if they had multiple grades, so they called them multi-grade oils, and they gave them TWO grade numbers such as SAE 15-40 to indicate it behaves like a SAE 15 when cold, and SAE 40 when hot. The W such as 15W-40 just indicates a slightly enhanced cold weather flowing ability.
So ... why do the User Manuals specify all those grades and BRANDS of oils? Easy - because the oil companies pay them BIG BUCKS to do that! An incredible amount of money is spent on oil advertising. They used to say that Castrol spent more money advertising GTX than they spent making the oil! In those days Castrol didn't tell you the grade and the oil was a pathetic blend almost a monograde. The only clever thing about it was the incredible HYPE. Smart people used Duckhams 20-50, but that didn't last after BP bought Duckhams. Things have changed since hopefully. But remember, advertising costs are factored in to the cost of the oil, so guess who pays for every penny of it at the end of the day.
Buy quality oils, buy in bulk, do not buy "trendy" or "synthetic" oils and use the good value to change the oil and filter every 5-6,000 miles.
Changing the oil (that is, draining it right out) is BY FAR the most effective way of removing all the crap, acids, water, carbon black, metal fragments and so on. Using synthetic oils for twice as long means all that bad stuff stays in the engine much longer, eating away at your bearing rings and pistons all the time.
DIY oil and filter changes are so easy, and so cheap, we should do it often. It costs me under £10 to change the oil and filter in my Disco TD5. That's a tad less than a LR main dealer would charge!
CharlesY
Oil
People get all excited about oil grades, so they get ripped off by the oil sellers who make BIG BUCKS selling ridiculously expensive potions in fancy plastic bottles.
My oil comes in a big steel barrel, 210 litres at a time. No messing!
Engine oil is engine oil. Start there.
Next, is it a petrol engine or a diesel?
Petrol engines get the crappy puny left-overs oils because they work under a lot less strain, and don't get polluted with carbon black.
Diesel engines get tougher grades of oil because these engines work harder all the time and there's a lot more carbon black gets into it down past the piston rings.
So diesel engine oils are far better oils, for ALL engines, petrol or diesel.
The grades to use hardly matters at all as long as it is an ENGINE oil. You will probably destroy your engine if you fill the sump with EP140 axle oil for example, but any engine oil with more or less any combination of SAE grades from 5 to 50 with or without a W is going to be just dandy,
In really REALLY cold weather a LOW grade number will make starting slightly easier especially if is has a W too, such as 10W-40 or even thinner, 5W-30 for instance.
In the summer, maybe a 20-50 would be good, with or without the W.
But, DO NOT GET NEUROTIC and DO NOT GET RIPPED OFF!
Choose a good basic grade of oil such as any of the tractor universals with a grade of about 15W/40 and off you go knowing you are using the best there is and not getting robbed.
When you think of the abuse farmers give their diesel engines, you can be sure the oil people supply the best of stuff!
Just repeat after me - "Fully synthetic oils are NOT better lubricants. They just cost ten times as much and last up to twice as long".
The maths isn't that difficult to work out.
Basically oils have a grade number that says how thick (or runny) it is at a certain temperature. I think the SAE oils were tested at 60°F. SAE is the USA Society of Automotive Engineers.
So, a SAE 30 grade oil is runnier than a SAE 40 grade, which would be a little thinner than a SAE 50. SAE 50 would be thicker than SAE 40 or any grade number less.
Now then, long ago in the early days of motoring in VERY COLD temperatures some oils tended to get far too THICK compared to other oils even of the same basic SAE grade, and engines were often so gummed up by thick gooey oil they would not even start. I have experienced that in my early motorbike days. My Triumph 500 GP was a brute to kick-start if SAE 40 oil was in the tank even though it had a "dry sump". The oil was like syrup in cold weather.
In those days there were no so-called "multi-grade" oils, and most cars would be given clean oil every 3,000 miles, using a SAE 20 in winter and a SAE 40 in the summer. These oils were later called MONO grade oils. Chancers used SAE 30 all the time.
The oil companies put their brains in top gear and worked out ways to make oils that stayed thin (like a SAE 20) when cold and stayed quite thick (like a SAE 40) when hot. These oils behaved as if they had multiple grades, so they called them multi-grade oils, and they gave them TWO grade numbers such as SAE 15-40 to indicate it behaves like a SAE 15 when cold, and SAE 40 when hot. The W such as 15W-40 just indicates a slightly enhanced cold weather flowing ability.
So ... why do the User Manuals specify all those grades and BRANDS of oils? Easy - because the oil companies pay them BIG BUCKS to do that! An incredible amount of money is spent on oil advertising. They used to say that Castrol spent more money advertising GTX than they spent making the oil! In those days Castrol didn't tell you the grade and the oil was a pathetic blend almost a monograde. The only clever thing about it was the incredible HYPE. Smart people used Duckhams 20-50, but that didn't last after BP bought Duckhams. Things have changed since hopefully. But remember, advertising costs are factored in to the cost of the oil, so guess who pays for every penny of it at the end of the day.
Buy quality oils, buy in bulk, do not buy "trendy" or "synthetic" oils and use the good value to change the oil and filter every 5-6,000 miles.
Changing the oil (that is, draining it right out) is BY FAR the most effective way of removing all the crap, acids, water, carbon black, metal fragments and so on. Using synthetic oils for twice as long means all that bad stuff stays in the engine much longer, eating away at your bearing rings and pistons all the time.
DIY oil and filter changes are so easy, and so cheap, we should do it often. It costs me under £10 to change the oil and filter in my Disco TD5. That's a tad less than a LR main dealer would charge!
CharlesY
BuzzLand
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I bloody hope so!
As that's what's on the V5 and inspection report!
Haynes manual also confirms it.
Here's the fuel filter:
Last edited:
Trewey
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Looks like a TDi to me.
Got any wider pics, showing the whole engine?
Got any wider pics, showing the whole engine?
bustersbus
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It' not a 200tdi as the air filter is in the wrong place... maybe a 3000tdi. And if that's the fuel filter where the power steerin' reservour should be, then ah'm lost!
