Oil grade? And how much?
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sierrafery
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7.2L of 5W40 fully synth oil which is suitable for turbo diesel unit injector/PD engines woud be the best IMO, and change both oil filters(main and rotor)
thebiglad
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8ltrs of fully synth 5w-30, B3 or B5 spec.
thebiglad
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We're going into a cold spell for the next 6 months so you don't need the high ambient temps (average of above 30°c) protection that the 5w-40 spec oil which is why I suggested 5w-30.
I buy my oil from Carrefour usually. 25€ for a 5ltr can. Get 2 x 5 and you have some left for next time.
BTW Rave says 7.2 ltrs for an oil and filter change; or 8.2 if the engine was dry. So having 8ltrs seems a reasonable compromise.
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This is what it says in the owners manual.
5w/30,5w/40,5w/50.
oil to meet ACEA A1. you do not need to use fully synthetic oil,semi synthetic is just as good for this engine and will cost less as well.but your choice.
capacity,engine and filter change,is 7.2 ltr or 12.6 pints
Tuskenraider
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A1 is a petrol engine spec, Diesel engines are B specs. A1 B1 is also fuel economy oil so is **** thin. I would look for a B3/B4 oil as its high performance related. The 3- or 40 number is how thin the oil is when at 100C so ambient temp is irrelevant (the 5 number is the cold start rating. I would go for a 5w40 as it will offer better protection when pushed hard.
sierrafery
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+1^^^, RAVE is a bit "excelled" in that area cos since then many new things appeared in the engine lubrication area, there were VW PD(pumpe duse=electronic unit injector) engines which suffered of catastrophic failure and the conclusion was that due to unproper oil, the 2000 year 2.5 VW PD engines are the most close as contruction/functionality to Td5 than any other engine in the world... and there is especially engineered oils for PD/unit injector engines which are the best for Td5 too(as i said in my first post here), that(or similar) is my recommendation http://www.amazon.co.uk/Comma-DPD5L-Diesel-Fully-Synthetic/dp/B006OW3MLM , i'm not gonna keep the whole theory again about the benefit of fully synth EUI dedicated oil for Td5 but i made serious and sustained research in that area... think just to the main issues: semi-synth is inferior on thermal breakdown and has greater electric conductivity due to mineral components... dont forget that the Td5 EUI's are connected to up to 85V pulsatory current within that oil...and so on... what i said was that IMO that's the BEST for Td5, off course that there are hundreds of much cheaper oils which are 'good enough', depends what you want for your engine
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yes that is correct,but i posted as to what is printed in the owners manual,so the op knows that he does not have to use fully synthetic oil.Yes there are better engine oils available now since the original manual was printed,but you do not have to use the most expensive oil in a standard td5.
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sierrafery
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where is that?...i'll buy it right away
i'm sure you meant untuned
... cos if it's tuned one way or another(i mean for more power) fully synth is the only way IMO
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where is that?...i'll buy it right away
i'm sure you meant untuned
i meant a standard model,but you knew that,didn't you.
.
only ever use 10/40 semi in my td5, re mapped,bigger
intercooler etc, change oil and filters around 3k miles, never had a problem related to type of oil
Fully synthetic is better, if your leaving it in there for 2 years or 25k miles, but your a dick if you are
intercooler etc, change oil and filters around 3k miles, never had a problem related to type of oil
Fully synthetic is better, if your leaving it in there for 2 years or 25k miles, but your a dick if you are
sierrafery
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fully synth is better all the way IMO, especially with power tuning, ... i replace it every 7K miles, so in the end it's cheaper than the semy synth then why put that sh*t on it?, 10W40 is not recommended for Td5... not even in that old RAVE...
unless it drops to minus 30, which it dont where i live 10/40 is fine
discool
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sierrafery
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put the filters too there at every 3K miles ... i dont want to argue, i made my oppinion based on very serious research and i dont want to keep a theory here cos it's long and boring... just an important thing in a nutshell, if your's is well power tuned when you floor it uphill eventually towing something too that 10W semi breaks down instantly in the turbo... also i'll never say that 10W is not fine, i'm insisting on what's the best... make a favour to your engine(and yourself) once and put a 5w40 full synth EUI/PD oil in it and i'm sure it will be smoother, maybe a bit more powerfull and even sound better, especially on cold start... if i'm wrong i'll post you the money difference through paypal you have my word on it
... i dont want to argue, i made my oppinion based on very serious research and i dont want to keep a theory here cos it's long and boring... just an important thing in a nutshell, if your's is well power tuned when you floor it uphill eventually towing something too that 10W semi breaks down instantly in the turbo... also i'll never say that 10W is not fine, i'm insisting on what's the best... make a favour to your engine(and yourself) once and put a 5w40 full synth EUI/PD oil in it and i'm sure it will be smoother, maybe a bit more powerfull and even sound better, especially on cold start... if i'm wrong i'll post you the money difference through paypal you have my word on it
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put the filters too there at every 3K miles
Not after you refunding anything to me, but heres a guy who rebuilds diesel engines, pumps, and injectors, and has done since 1940, here is his opinion on oil
Diesel Bob Tuning - Engine Oil
incedentally i use 5/40 b4 spec fully synthetic in my work van as its a modern common rail jobbie
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sierrafery
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i know the article, i've seen it while i was "digging"... unfortunately the EUI engines are not covered there... and from the at least 100 articles i've read this kind of "old school" approach is in minority... but my research was based especially on turbo diesel EUI engines with hydraulic tappets.
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