Oil filter change?

Hi. I'm new to all this, so please excuse the really basic question and the essay that follows. I've only owned 'modern' cars which get serviced in a garage before this. Recently inherited a Series 3 Landy. Although I enjoyed 'helping' with all the jobs that needed doing in the past I've not done any work on her entirely on my own before. She was MOT'd begining of the month, garage said they checked fluid levels and all fine. Driving today the oil pressure light flickered on while going round a roundabout. Just once. On arrival at destination I left her standing for 2 hours to cool and when I came back I checked the oil level - none visible on dip stick. Drove home very gently - risky I know. She needs an oil change anyway which I've been putting off. Question 1 - I think I might as well change the oil and filter rather than just top it up and hope - sensible or not? Question 2- If OK to change them, then last time I changed the oil filter she had a 3 bearing 2.25 Petrol engine, now she has a 5 bearing 2.25 petrol engine. Had a quick look, there is no housing or anything for the oil filter, is it as simple as unscrewing the old one and putting the new one on after draining it? Question 3- Is there a special tool to get the oil filter off/ on? Question 4 -Is there another seal I need to add before I put the new filter on? Question 5-, is there a recommended torque setting when tightening the sump plug? Sorry, I have looked it up in both the Haynes manual and the operation and repair manual but either I'm looking in the wrong place or my manuals don't cover the 5 bearing 2.25 petrol engine. Oh, and Question 6 - she sounded fine coming home, the thermostat doesn't work so no idea if she got too hot. Am I likely to have done much damage running her on almost no oil? I have booked myself on to a basic vehicle maintenance course for Sept.. so hopefully not too many more stupid questions. Thanks in advance.

My thoughts .. give it as good a service as you can! Not only oil and filter, yes it should just screw off and back on, but also air filter, spark plugs, timing, checking cables, like throttle, bonnet opening, heater controls etc, oil or grease all moving parts! Check brake pads/shoes, adjust handbrake, check all bulbs, lights, etc etc ...

When you replace the oil filter it should have included, a square section O-ring, make sure you remove the old one or it will leak like the Torrey Canyon. Also smear it with engine oil which helps the filter rotate and provide a good seal.

I doubt you've hurt her running on only a little oil for a short while.

http://www.seriesdiesellandrover.com/torquesettings.html might help a little ..

Well it's done!

Paul D said:

My thoughts .. give it as good a service as you can! Not only oil and filter, yes it should just screw off and back on, but also air filter, spark plugs, timing, checking cables, like throttle, bonnet opening, heater controls etc, oil or grease all moving parts! Check brake pads/shoes, adjust handbrake, check all bulbs, lights, etc etc ...

When you replace the oil filter it should have included, a square section O-ring, make sure you remove the old one or it will leak like the Torrey Canyon. Also smear it with engine oil which helps the filter rotate and provide a good seal.

I doubt you've hurt her running on only a little oil for a short while.

http://www.seriesdiesellandrover.com/torquesettings.html might help a little ..

Click to expand...

Now your a real landy owner! Get in there. Try to get hold of a workshop manual and parts list, ideally PDF versions. The Haynes manual is a bit simplistic. Doing the plugs points condenser and cleaning the dizzy cap and rotor arm will improve performance greatly. Another good job is to clean the air filter with petrol and replace the oil bath at the base of the filter it will aid breathing.

What I've found helpful in the past with elderly petrol engines is to renew as many parts of the ignition system as possible - plugs, leads, distributor cap, coil, points etc. - and then once it is back together, slather the whole lot in 'ignition sealer'. It is then surprising how well they start, right through the winter.

John S said:

Now your a real landy owner! Get in there. Try to get hold of a workshop manual and parts list, ideally PDF versions. The Haynes manual is a bit simplistic. Doing the plugs points condenser and cleaning the dizzy cap and rotor arm will improve performance greatly. Another good job is to clean the air filter with petrol and replace the oil bath at the base of the filter it will aid breathing.

Click to expand...

I'm planning to tackle the air filter next weekend, then the front and rear diffs will be next on the service list. I've had the spark plugs out to check them, do they just go back in hand tight or is there a torque setting I should use?