New member with Discovery 2 questions

Hi, I'm new to the forum but not to Land Rover's. I've had a 1993 Discovery V8, a 1995 300Tdi and a 1996 3.9 V8i Discovery and have just got myself a 2004 Td5 Series 2 and have a few questions as it like most discovery models has a couple of niggles..

1) When the ignition is turned to position 2 there is a fast ticking which I presume is a relay which stays ticking for 5-10 seconds after starting, does not have any problem starting but no warning light just an annoying ticking for the first few seconds. I am guessing it's something like a glow plug relay or is there anything else that would do this?

2) Drivers side wiper arm has come out of position and is overrunning due to me turning them on to clear snow, I guess it just needs to be repositioned and tightened but my 300Tdi never had problem clearing snow, guess its splines are shot on the wiper arm, common fault?
3) Heater blower fan is noisy on full speed, I assume its same as the 300Tdi one so easy to remove to clean and inspect?
4) Rear lights have no visible cracks but have a little water in them, where could this be getting in?
5) Car is a pursuit model (didn't want passengers side having an air bag and didn't want sunroof) but car still has a leak at the headlining on drivers side near the A pillar, could this be the A pillar or more likely run through the roof rails (factory fit roof bars)
6) Car revs fine but seems to have a rattle or vibration from something in the dash or centre console when revs are above 3000 rpm, what could be loose in here?
7) Handbrake when released sits too low so I trap my fingers on the centre console, from what I remember this is probably because someone did too much adjustment at the handbrake cable and not at the drum on the prop, or is there another possible cause?
8) Drivers side window regulator I think has a broken tooth, it clicks and jumps, window still works but it's a question of time before I'm having to open the door at the drive through lol, is it as straightforward as a 300Tdi regulator to change?

That's all I can think of for now, thanks in advance

1) No idea, sorry. Maybe some other member might know.

2) Quite possibly the splines. There's a nut under the pop out centre to remove the wiper arm. Picture below.

3) What sort of noise? Screeching, rattling or just a loud blower noise? On full, mine does make a loud blowing noise.

4) The rear light cluster is a complete unit, not a lens unit screwed on to the bulb holder/reflector unit. You change the bulbs from the back. It could be that the seal between the lens and the backing unit has failed. All plastic so there are a whole load of adhesives which might do the job.

5) Probably getting in at the top of the windscreen or at the corner of the rain gutter. Everything I've managed to put together on Disco water ingress is attached.

6) Could be anything. You're just going to have to get searching.

7) The handbrake lever when it's correctly set should pull up three clicks on the pawl. If you're satiafied that the drum has been adjusted properly, it could be that the cable has been overtightened last time somebody adjusted it.

8) The regulator unit is fairly straightforward. The regulator is made of some pretty rubbish metal, to call it sh1tite would be a compliment. It's just a bit of a faff to get it out of the door through the opening. Fitting the motor back on the new regulator takes a bit of care to get the gears to mesh. Another problem with the window regulator is that the little nylon wheels tend to disintergrate and they can't be sourced separately. Replacement regulators are about 20 quid.

Land_Rover_Discovery said:

Hi, I'm new to the forum but not to Land Rover's. I've had a 1993 Discovery V8, a 1995 300Tdi and a 1996 3.9 V8i Discovery and have just got myself a 2004 Td5 Series 2 and have a few questions as it like most discovery models has a couple of niggles..

1) When the ignition is turned to position 2 there is a fast ticking which I presume is a relay which stays ticking for 5-10 seconds after starting, does not have any problem starting but no warning light just an annoying ticking for the first few seconds. I am guessing it's something like a glow plug relay or is there anything else that would do this?

2) Drivers side wiper arm has come out of position and is overrunning due to me turning them on to clear snow, I guess it just needs to be repositioned and tightened but my 300Tdi never had problem clearing snow, guess its splines are shot on the wiper arm, common fault?
3) Heater blower fan is noisy on full speed, I assume its same as the 300Tdi one so easy to remove to clean and inspect?
4) Rear lights have no visible cracks but have a little water in them, where could this be getting in?
5) Car is a pursuit model (didn't want passengers side having an air bag and didn't want sunroof) but car still has a leak at the headlining on drivers side near the A pillar, could this be the A pillar or more likely run through the roof rails (factory fit roof bars)
6) Car revs fine but seems to have a rattle or vibration from something in the dash or centre console when revs are above 3000 rpm, what could be loose in here?
7) Handbrake when released sits too low so I trap my fingers on the centre console, from what I remember this is probably because someone did too much adjustment at the handbrake cable and not at the drum on the prop, or is there another possible cause?
8) Drivers side window regulator I think has a broken tooth, it clicks and jumps, window still works but it's a question of time before I'm having to open the door at the drive through lol, is it as straightforward as a 300Tdi regulator to change?

That's all I can think of for now, thanks in advance

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I wonder if the ticking at switch on might be to do with the in tank fuel pump. Forum search might be helpful with that one.

Handbrake may have been adjusted up for MOT, so long as the brake isn't dragging it should be fine.

Rattles and squeaks in trim are fairly common, sometimes Wurth spray or similar helps.

I would remove the lights, and inspect the rear of the lights, and the seals around the bulbs, to see if you can find where the water is getting in.

Wipers as Brian suggests.

Thanks very much for the replies, they are most helpful. I will be spending some time fixing these little niggles and doing some chassis cleaning and rust proof coating before I get some decent miles on the car so will be no doubt uncovering more things as and when I find them. Have to say though the car is so very similar to my 300Tdi but in other ways it's a world apart. I'm half tempted to keep my 300Tdi engine and gearbox incase the Td5 ever goes bang (plus it'd be nice to have diff lock) but so far the car seems very happy to start even in cold weather and ticks over smoothly. The throttle feels weird though, way too light, it's not got that stiff mechanical feel of the Tdi and the clutch isn't as heavy either it is much more like a normal car than I'm used to from a Discovery

Hi, I had been told that water in the rear lights was common and that the best and easiest solution is to drill a few holes in the backs at the bottom ?! Interested to know how you get on with the fan because mine squeeks a bit at certain speeds.

Land_Rover_Discovery said:

Thanks very much for the replies, they are most helpful. I will be spending some time fixing these little niggles and doing some chassis cleaning and rust proof coating before I get some decent miles on the car so will be no doubt uncovering more things as and when I find them. Have to say though the car is so very similar to my 300Tdi but in other ways it's a world apart. I'm half tempted to keep my 300Tdi engine and gearbox incase the Td5 ever goes bang (plus it'd be nice to have diff lock) but so far the car seems very happy to start even in cold weather and ticks over smoothly. The throttle feels weird though, way too light, it's not got that stiff mechanical feel of the Tdi and the clutch isn't as heavy either it is much more like a normal car than I'm used to from a Discovery

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Throttle is a different set-up to a Disco 1, more fly by wire. Clutch action is much better, that has been uprated as well.

A Tdi will be fairly gutless in a D2, and quite a few changes needed to fit.

Cheers for the advice, I think when I finish work today I'll remove the rear light clusters and have a look at them and see if the seals on the bulb holders have gone. It's a bit alarming that water of this amount can get at this location, may have to use gasket tape around the edge of the lamp so nothing gets back there, don't want it rotting from the inside out like my 300Tdi

Land_Rover_Discovery said:

Cheers for the advice, I think when I finish work today I'll remove the rear light clusters and have a look at them and see if the seals on the bulb holders have gone. It's a bit alarming that water of this amount can get at this location, may have to use gasket tape around the edge of the lamp so nothing gets back there, don't want it rotting from the inside out like my 300Tdi

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I think it has been exceptionally bad conditions for water access the last few weeks, driven snow, melting later, will find it's way in almost everywhere.

I think the light clusters are all plastic, these vehicles are considerably improved over Disco 1s in many ways.

1. The ticking sounds like a relay hasnt got enough power, you hear it quite often on cars with half dead batteries but if yours is starting fine i'd say maybe a dodgy earth somewhere. The plastic panel to the outer side of the footwell hides an earth stud on each side of the car. worth checking those and cleaning them up. If you have a leak its worth a check under the carpet for water while you ahve the side panels off, water under there rots the floor really quick.
5. I had a leaky windscreen on mine, awkward to fit a new one as the bodies are a little variable. the fitter had a fair challange on his hands with mine. Its worth checking the seal on the inside, no need to remove anything just look up where the window joins the roof on the inside with a torch and a mirror. Dont take off the outer trim its not designed to be watertight and is a git to get it back on with the window in place.
7. The handbrake going down too far is the end stop has bent/snapped. this happened on mine when i was sitting on the centre console fixing the sunroof and my fat ass slipped and flattened the handbrake. Take out the centre console and you'll see the tab. you can remove the gator around the handle but you wont be able to fix it rom there.
Chemical metal might fix it when you do get it off.
8. Window regulator is dead easy. If you've done a tdi one your fine. dont try to fix it, just get a new one, not worth the hassle as theyre a sod to get right.

One spot to check for rot on these is in the rear arch below the door catch. both mine have gone here, bit of a dirt trap between 2 sheets of steel there. That and the entire rear end of the chassis.
Hope you enjoy the new motor!

Latest update..
Cleaned out and sealed the rear lights, hopefully they stay dry.

Found a small slow drip of water, looks like my D2 Td5 has a small radiator leak. Brilliant.. Also seems that I will need new inner wings at some point in the not too distant future, they look a little flaky so will end up like the ones on my 300Tdi if not sorted. Do they do inner wing repair panels for the D2??

Found a blown 40amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box. I think it's a fan fuse, changed it, still have the relay clicking sound..

Land_Rover_Discovery said:

Latest update..
Cleaned out and sealed the rear lights, hopefully they stay dry.

Found a small slow drip of water, looks like my D2 Td5 has a small radiator leak. Brilliant.. Also seems that I will need new inner wings at some point in the not too distant future, they look a little flaky so will end up like the ones on my 300Tdi if not sorted. Do they do inner wing repair panels for the D2??

Found a blown 40amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box. I think it's a fan fuse, changed it, still have the relay clicking sound..

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Try putting some Radweld or a Barrs seal in it. Does work on occasions.

Did you look into if the in tank fuel pump has a relay?

Turboman said:

Try putting some Radweld or a Barrs seal in it. Does work on occasions.

Did you look into if the in tank fuel pump has a relay?

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It's only £50 for a new radiator or £120 for an uprated one so I will get a new one, just really annoyed that I have it happen on a car I've not even put more than ten miles on.

Have not looked into if the in tank pump has a relay, but I know the in tank pump works as when ignition is in position 2 it primes and can be heard from the back of the car. I'm hoping to have a proper fault finding day at the weekend to see what I can suss out with the car and find out how much this car is going to cost me lol

Land_Rover_Discovery said:

It's only £50 for a new radiator or £120 for an uprated one so I will get a new one, just really annoyed that I have it happen on a car I've not even put more than ten miles on.

Have not looked into if the in tank pump has a relay, but I know the in tank pump works as when ignition is in position 2 it primes and can be heard from the back of the car. I'm hoping to have a proper fault finding day at the weekend to see what I can suss out with the car and find out how much this car is going to cost me lol

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That is very reasonable for a rad, so long as the quality is good.

Land_Rover_Discovery said:

just really annoyed that I have it happen on a car I've not even put more than ten miles on.

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Nothing at all surprising for a 14yr old motor, I've heard of worse faults on 5yr old motors.

K-seal ultra in the header tank, it has copper flakes in it that stay suspended in the coolant and block any pin pricks, used it on a load of vehicles with good results and no horrid after effects of usage.

A quick question about the wipers, did you not think to clear the snow by hand and at least lift the wiper arms free from a frozen screen before you put them on? I ask as it seems to be a common idea that wipers should just work regardless of a half meter of snow on them or them being frozen to the screen from a minus 5 frost overnight.

Land_Rover_Discovery said:

Hi, I'm new to the forum but not to Land Rover's. I've had a 1993 Discovery V8, a 1995 300Tdi and a 1996 3.9 V8i Discovery and have just got myself a 2004 Td5 Series 2 and have a few questions as it like most discovery models has a couple of niggles..

1) When the ignition is turned to position 2 there is a fast ticking which I presume is a relay which stays ticking for 5-10 seconds after starting, does not have any problem starting but no warning light just an annoying ticking for the first few seconds. I am guessing it's something like a glow plug relay or is there anything else that would do this?

2) Drivers side wiper arm has come out of position and is overrunning due to me turning them on to clear snow, I guess it just needs to be repositioned and tightened but my 300Tdi never had problem clearing snow, guess its splines are shot on the wiper arm, common fault?
3) Heater blower fan is noisy on full speed, I assume its same as the 300Tdi one so easy to remove to clean and inspect?
4) Rear lights have no visible cracks but have a little water in them, where could this be getting in?
5) Car is a pursuit model (didn't want passengers side having an air bag and didn't want sunroof) but car still has a leak at the headlining on drivers side near the A pillar, could this be the A pillar or more likely run through the roof rails (factory fit roof bars)
6) Car revs fine but seems to have a rattle or vibration from something in the dash or centre console when revs are above 3000 rpm, what could be loose in here?
7) Handbrake when released sits too low so I trap my fingers on the centre console, from what I remember this is probably because someone did too much adjustment at the handbrake cable and not at the drum on the prop, or is there another possible cause?
8) Drivers side window regulator I think has a broken tooth, it clicks and jumps, window still works but it's a question of time before I'm having to open the door at the drive through lol, is it as straightforward as a 300Tdi regulator to change?

That's all I can think of for now, thanks in advance

Click to expand...

3) There's 3 bolts/screws holding the bottom of the blower on, remove them and a plug and it'll be full of leaves!
4) I just drilled some small holes in the bottom haha.
5) As said can be the windscreen but also the roof bars, they have a gasket which can fail. Silicone will fix it!
7) If you take the gaiter off, you'll see a little metal piece which knocks the handbrake switch off when down will be bent, I bent mind back but it didn't last long. Keep meaning to pull the one out my breaker and use that!
8) I'd stop using the window, usually a small plastic washer breaks and it allows more movement until it pops apart and bends and drops!

Update so far:

1) I noticed the Oil Pressure light was not coming on when the ignition was turned on, had a look in the engine bay and sure enough it had one wire going to it and the other looked damaged like it'd been cut or pulled (maybe when doing a clutch change?)
The wire going to the plug was the black wire which does naff all as the thing earth's through the block anyway so I cut that, removed the plug and spent more minutes than I care to admit to getting the damn terminals out of the plug. I then crimped in some new wire and added a bullet connector male fitting to the end at the plug and crimped a bullet connector female to the white and brown wire which was cut and above the bell housing (so it can be disconnected easily if it has to and won't short out on anything)
I turned on the ignition and lo and behold the oil pressure light was now on! I then started the car and the light immediately went out, so I have oil pressure ! I sighed relief at that lol.

2) I think I've found out where the leak on the radiator is, seems to be from the small hose right at the top of the radiator on the near side, it has a crimp fitting but as far as I can tell that hose is not as tight as it should be, will cut that off and stick a jubilee clip on it this week and see if that cures the little radiator leak.

3) Think I know why the car clicks for a few seconds when ignition is switched on, the drivers side vent only outputs cold air but the passenger side goes lovely and hot, I think it's the motors for the mixer flap thing trying to work, the sound is not from the in car fuse box but pretty much behind the vents so I'll use the endoscope camera thing and see if I can see inside what is actually working with the mixer flaps but I'm happy it's not an ignition relay or anything. Actually thinking about it I could just pull the fuse for the heater system controls that would confirm that they are the source of the clicks.

4) I seem to have reduced the roof leak by sealing the drivers side roof rails with silicone temporarily, will remove them and cut a gasket out of silicone for them at work and stick blue hylomar on either side of the gaskets, that'll sort them out, awaiting arrival of a big bottle of Captain Tolleys for the roof gutter just to rule out anything coming in from there, once that sets I've got some Java black paint to redo the gutters which should increase the level of waterproofing .

5) The car had a suspect oil leak on previous MOTs, looking at the clean nature of the drips I think it's more likely the fuel pressure regulator. Will investigate this more at the weekend, I've swapped out a fuel lift pump on my 300Tdi on my driveway but looking at the videos of the Td5 regulator change on YouTube I'll probably let Land Rover change that, far too much faffing about!

By the way, is it normal for a Td5 to have only one horn? Mine has one crappy little horn on the nearside firewall, my 300Tdi has two one each side of the radiator one high tone and one low tone, should the Td5 not be the same?

Land_Rover_Discovery said:

By the way, is it normal for a Td5 to have only one horn? Mine has one crappy little horn on the nearside firewall, my 300Tdi has two one each side of the radiator one high tone and one low tone, should the Td5 not be the same?

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firewall horn is an alarm horn, look in front of the rad for the actual horn.

Cheers

Regarding your heater trouble, I don't know whether you have the climate control version with the push-buttons or the earlier type with the rotary knobs. If it's the climate control, there is a diagnostic sequence which can be activated from the front panel. If you get error 21 and 22 it's because the solar sensor, the little black blob on top of the dashboard isn't getting enough light.
Here's the test sequence:-

Thanks for the reply, I didn't know it had a separate horn for the alarm, yet another little difference to the old Tdi.
Cheers for the AC diagnostic info, will try that tomorrow and see what errors it gives

New update, its been ****ing down with rain all day so left the Discovery on the drive to get rained on all day, came back from work to check and the roof liner is dry, took the A pillar trim off and dry behind it which is a good sign, bottle of Captain Tolley's has arrived so will sort the guttering with that on a bone dry day but will still use the scope cam at the weekend and see what I can see, looking like it was more likely the roof bars causing the leak so fingers crossed that's one thing pretty much sussed.
Tried the AC diagnostic and got a FC 21 and FC 22, must need a brighter light to shine on it I guess but that's the only codes it gave so unless it looks no further once it sees that error then there's nothing to suggest the motor for flap control is siezed so only other thing I'm thinking for the drivers side to pump only cold air is a pipe or something which channels the air is dislodged. Can't see that being the case though as like my Tdi it should be one big box with just moving flaps to stop and mix the hot and cold air?

I have been looking at the clock, the bulb is a stupid type with the thing being soldered to the bulb holder and it needs the contacts to the outer of the holder to work so the bulb and holder from my Tdi doesn't fit. Clock from the Tdi does though, also noticed when taking apart the 300Tdi clock to clean it there is a colour filter which gives the clock green output, took it out but left the diffuser panel in, now I can put any colour light in and it will show up that colour, was hoping it was as easy with the switches on the D2 so I can have everything illuminated red but the dash switches are not like the Tdi ones with a tiny capsule bulb that is removable with a colour cap, they are just a green led so will have to look at what voltage those leds are as they look small for 12v but must be, will see if I can get some red ones to do the entire lot.