New front springs

After three weeks up on axle stands, job done i.e. new front springs fitted. My post is an oft repeated one.

So, I've set the springs to deflection distance (110-114 cms) and now it's loaded with the tyres refitted the springs are still sitting high. I torqued to the correct settings.

Should I re-torque after a couple of weeks?

Finally I will state I'm never going to do this job again. Scraggling underneath the vehicle at ground level and bashing, burning etc is a total sheite job. My only consolation is the saving on garage costs. But saying that I'm a landsman again

You should re check after driving it some. Spring shackel bolts should be done with the vehicle on the ground.Axle U bolts should also be checked.

Job well done sometime s the hardest jobs give the most satisfaction hope you remembered the copper slip just in case you fancy doing them again

Nice to get a job done isn't it.

What do you mean by "set the springs to deflection distance (110-114 cms)"? I refurb'd my front springs earlier this year but I didn't set any kind of deflection distance, just torqued the u-bolts up per the manual..

The workshop manual says load up the springs to get the pre set distance so it puts it in the mid deflection position in use then torque up the shackle bolts , if when the wheels are down and springs loaded the distance is still 110-114 mm then this is ok

I'm glad I asked. My '58-'77 Haynes Workshop Manual doesn't say anything about this under 'Front and rear springs - removal and refitting'.

Thanks. I'm going to do that. I think it looks worse because the back springs are older too.

steve2286w said:

Job well done sometime s the hardest jobs give the most satisfaction hope you remembered the copper slip just in case you fancy doing them again

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X1 loads of copper slip applied. I replaced the front shockers 2 years ago and when I was dismantling the top bolt came away perfectly with a nice film of copper grease; it's good stuff.

steve2286w said:

The workshop manual says load up the springs to get the pre set distance so it puts it in the mid deflection position in use then torque up the shackle bolts , if when the wheels are down and springs loaded the distance is still 110-114 mm then this is ok

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Thanks. That's what I did and they're still sitting high. Going to tool around for a week and reset under load. Jobs not over till it's over.

scottonthefen said:

I'm glad I asked. My '58-'77 Haynes Workshop Manual doesn't say anything about this under 'Front and rear springs - removal and refitting'.

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Don't rely on a Haynes manual full stop. The U bolt hanger plate and the shackles are critical to safe and normal performance when driving. There's too many axle variables. You have to get the correct U bolts and nuts to match with th the correct axle. I'm on my iPhone so can't send the parts to picture. Also if the U bolt hanger plate is badly corroded you should replace, cost about £35K. This is a job you can't bodge cos it's critical to safe driving.

I think it looks worse cos the rears are sagging.

steve2286w said:

The workshop manual says load up the springs to get the pre set distance so it puts it in the mid deflection position in use then torque up the shackle bolts , if when the wheels are down and springs loaded the distance is still 110-114 mm then this is ok

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Done

I need to do mine too, as I didn’t read the manual!

Oh yeah! Passed MOT today with usual trepidation. Expected a failure on front brake pipes corrosion but okay! Replacement from suspension a no brainer. Anyway it's great to have it done with no advisories.

Good job then. Your new springs will need some time/driving to settle to normal hight.

Nice one, no problems with oil leaks ? as this can be a fail since new regs this year, my mot man advised to give it a good jet wash pre mot, been busy over last few months on seals and gaskets trying to plug a few drips but still got an engine oil leak dripping after a good run , need to get mot in next 3 weeks

steve2286w said:

Nice one, no problems with oil leaks ? as this can be a fail since new regs this year, my mot man advised to give it a good jet wash pre mot, been busy over last few months on seals and gaskets trying to plug a few drips but still got an engine oil leak dripping after a good run , need to get mot in next 3 weeks

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I've not come across that one. I do have small leaks (it's a Series!). I took the opportunity to clean up surface rust, treated with paint and then chassis seal around both the chassis, steering rods and stub axle. Other things that winged it; crap wiring and headlamps. Next spring I'll be upgrading the headlight assembly. For now we're good to go for winter