There seems to be a lot of clutch posts on here lately, including my own. So thought i would put some thing on here about how i did it on my 01 td5.
Valeo clutch kit from Mail Order 4x4...£98.70 delivered free when ordered online.
Read up on gearbox removal with Haynes and RAVE.
Items not mentioned in both of the above are. Remember to disconnect Crankshaft Sensor (just above starter motor on front of bell housing). Also disconnect oil pressure sensor (behind turbo and below manifold). Mine got caught on gear box and pulled wire out of plug. A note on the oil sensor. There are two wires on it going up and into a plastic sleeve, the black wire does not connect to anything. Why it is there is unclear. Maybe someone can enlighten me.
There is also two brackets that utilise two top bolts of bell housing. BE VERY AWARE OF GETTING THESE SANDWICHED BETWEEN BELL HOUSING AND ENGINE WHEN REFITTING.
Also both manuals say to drain oils from gearbox and transfer box. This is not essential. Its up to you, if you think it needs it!!!. Gear box...Just under 3 ltrs of MTF 94. Transfer box...2ltrs Hypoid EP 75/90.
Starter motor removal is two bolts, 13mm socket, on bottom and 1 flange nut on top which can be reached with a 15mm socket on a 6" extension bar with a 3/8 ratchet.
On stripping out centre consul, i drilled out pop rivets and removed rubber gaiter around gearstick. This gives greater clearance around S bend in stick when lowering box. Also allows some work to be done from inside car when disconnecting electrics on top of box.
I managed to remove box with car on ramps at front and stands at rear, using a high lift jack and smaller jack on transfer box. I would not however recommend this as it was a bit of the old **** in your breeks. Get a transmission jack from somewhere. I borrowed one when refitting and made life much easier.
When refitting get some 10mm screwed rod and cut into 6" or 7" lengths. When cutting rod, screw a nut onto rod and when cut, debur end of rod and screw nut off. This will reform thread and make rods easier to work with. DO NOT force rod into tapped holes and damage thread, this would be VERY BAD. 5 or 6 lengths should do. When box is up and 2 or 3 inches from face, put these through bolt holes on bell housing to act as guides. nuts can also be used on rods to pull box into position.
Remember to mark prop shafts before removal. I used tipex as it was all i had.
Think that's about it. Everything else should be as it is in the book, so good luck to anybody willing to try this at home.
Valeo clutch kit from Mail Order 4x4...£98.70 delivered free when ordered online.
Read up on gearbox removal with Haynes and RAVE.
Items not mentioned in both of the above are. Remember to disconnect Crankshaft Sensor (just above starter motor on front of bell housing). Also disconnect oil pressure sensor (behind turbo and below manifold). Mine got caught on gear box and pulled wire out of plug. A note on the oil sensor. There are two wires on it going up and into a plastic sleeve, the black wire does not connect to anything. Why it is there is unclear. Maybe someone can enlighten me.
There is also two brackets that utilise two top bolts of bell housing. BE VERY AWARE OF GETTING THESE SANDWICHED BETWEEN BELL HOUSING AND ENGINE WHEN REFITTING.
Also both manuals say to drain oils from gearbox and transfer box. This is not essential. Its up to you, if you think it needs it!!!. Gear box...Just under 3 ltrs of MTF 94. Transfer box...2ltrs Hypoid EP 75/90.
Starter motor removal is two bolts, 13mm socket, on bottom and 1 flange nut on top which can be reached with a 15mm socket on a 6" extension bar with a 3/8 ratchet.
On stripping out centre consul, i drilled out pop rivets and removed rubber gaiter around gearstick. This gives greater clearance around S bend in stick when lowering box. Also allows some work to be done from inside car when disconnecting electrics on top of box.
I managed to remove box with car on ramps at front and stands at rear, using a high lift jack and smaller jack on transfer box. I would not however recommend this as it was a bit of the old **** in your breeks. Get a transmission jack from somewhere. I borrowed one when refitting and made life much easier.
When refitting get some 10mm screwed rod and cut into 6" or 7" lengths. When cutting rod, screw a nut onto rod and when cut, debur end of rod and screw nut off. This will reform thread and make rods easier to work with. DO NOT force rod into tapped holes and damage thread, this would be VERY BAD. 5 or 6 lengths should do. When box is up and 2 or 3 inches from face, put these through bolt holes on bell housing to act as guides. nuts can also be used on rods to pull box into position.
Remember to mark prop shafts before removal. I used tipex as it was all i had.
Think that's about it. Everything else should be as it is in the book, so good luck to anybody willing to try this at home.
So remember to disconnect them lol.
