my turbo!

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Jackin

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3
Hi can anyone tell me what turbo I have in my landy. I had a 200tdi put in, I was told it was from a defender, and on the block it is stamped 11 L. It seems to relocating all my oil from my engine to behind the car, so I think an exchange is in order. Only I'm not sure which one to put in.
 
Turbo above the manifold or below it? on top is defender version and down under is disco version
Before condemning turbo remove the breather pipe from the rocker cover to just before the turbo as it might have bigger engine issues.
 
It's above the manifold, and it's a rebuilt engine from a landy specialist. About a year ago. The big hose that goes into the turbo is smothered in oil, does that help? Also it starts on the button, so I think the compression is ok? I know very little about engines so sorry if I'm a bit vague.
 
Even a totally fcuked 200 will start on the button as great engines.
Both my 200 have the fat breather pipe routed to atmosphere and the hole in the inlet trunking before the air filter blanked off, weirdly now they breath to atmosphere they dont seem to chuck much carp out at all?
Both used to chuck oil into the intercooler and its pipework all the time, now they are pretty much dry.
The blank is 3/4 of an inch inside diameter and cost about a fiver from ebay, got to be worth a try before shelling out on a turbo?
Iirc the defender 200tdi turbo is about twice the price of the disco version as its rarer.

Might be worth adding your approx location that way someone local might have a look for you, do not use your postcode for obvious reasons.
 
I think the turbo core is the same for the defender and disco - pretty sure they are both Garrett T2s.
Changing the core is nuts and bolts. Have a look here: www.turborebuild.co.uk
£135.09, much cheaper than changing the whole unit.
I've always wondered about a recore myself if or when my high mileage turbo diesel, anyone done it with pleasing long term results?
 
Getting the four bolts out proved fatal for the one I tried to overhaul all sheared in the manifold part and impossible to drill out in a home workshop.
 
It was long time ago when I took mine off and I can't remember the exact details but I do remember I had to use oxy acetylene to get the nuts off and, iirc, two of them you can only get an open ended spanner on.
 
It was long time ago when I took mine off and I can't remember the exact details but I do remember I had to use oxy acetylene to get the nuts off and, iirc, two of them you can only get an open ended spanner on.

It may be that someone had put the wrong nuts on it.

The nuts holding the turbo to the manifold should be Phildas nuts, which are fairly soft metal, and if they wont undo are easy to cut off with a sharp cold chisel.
The ones holding the exhaust elbow to the turbo are steel, but usually so corroded that they will crumble and come away. I always replace all the nuts, and the studs on the back of the turbocharger, when I change them.
 
Even a totally fcuked 200 will start on the button as great engines.
Both my 200 have the fat breather pipe routed to atmosphere and the hole in the inlet trunking before the air filter blanked off, weirdly now they breath to atmosphere they dont seem to chuck much carp out at all?
Both used to chuck oil into the intercooler and its pipework all the time, now they are pretty much dry.
The blank is 3/4 of an inch inside diameter and cost about a fiver from ebay, got to be worth a try before shelling out on a turbo?
Iirc the defender 200tdi turbo is about twice the price of the disco version as its rarer.

Might be worth adding your approx location that way someone local might have a look for you, do not use your postcode for obvious reasons.

I have been thinking about doing this, what and how have you done it? I can’t imagine it’s just the pipe hanging loose in the engine bay....
 
I have been thinking about doing this, what and how have you done it? I can’t imagine it’s just the pipe hanging loose in the engine bay....

I routed the one on my Ninety onto a fitting screwed into the chassis, so any oil vapour lubricates the inside of the chassis.
Do it subtle, down by the engine, and under the bulkhead on top of the chassis rail.
 
I routed the one on my Ninety onto a fitting screwed into the chassis, so any oil vapour lubricates the inside of the chassis.
Do it subtle, down by the engine, and under the bulkhead on top of the chassis rail.
Will have a think and see what I can come up with :)
 
Will have a think and see what I can come up with :)

15mm copper pipe elbow, short length of copper pipe soldered into each end, the copper pipe pokes into the hole in the side of the chassis member about half way back. Bond it in with epoxy putty or similar, and attach the breather hose with a Jubilee clip.
 
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I have been thinking about doing this, what and how have you done it? I can’t imagine it’s just the pipe hanging loose in the engine bay....

Pipe literally just sits on the inner wing right under the brake servo, I did use another pipe with a built in 90 degree bend on end as the original pipe didnt look right.
I will find a pic, one pic found
 
I routed the one on my Ninety onto a fitting screwed into the chassis, so any oil vapour lubricates the inside of the chassis.
Do it subtle, down by the engine, and under the bulkhead on top of the chassis rail.


I wouldnt be doing that as when I ran a catch can the amount of water vapour that separated out of the oil mist was unreal almost weekly there would be 1/2 a teacup of grey oily sludge, the sludge was the same when it was routed into the intake trunking so I can only assume the intake trunking acted as some some pf condenscing chamber same as a chassis probably would?
 
I wouldnt be doing that as when I ran a catch can the amount of water vapour that separated out of the oil mist was unreal almost weekly there would be 1/2 a teacup of grey oily sludge, the sludge was the same when it was routed into the intake trunking so I can only assume the intake trunking acted as some some pf condenscing chamber same as a chassis probably would?

Interesting. The few drops that come out of my breather always looks very oily and black. Engine has only done 30k from new, although I am not sure why that would affect the quality of the vapour.
 
Interesting. The few drops that come out of my breather always looks very oily and black. Engine has only done 30k from new, although I am not sure why that would affect the quality of the vapour.


The low mileage of yours may be the answer as my 90 has 138k on the clock and the clock has been messed with! the series tdi is well worn and breathes like puffing billy!
Both still start and run well.
My D3 and the wifes Audi both have closed crankcase ventilation systems and both always have oil residue in their intake systems as have just about all the diesel cars we have ever owned.
 
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