Freelander 1 My Freelander

I decided I wanted a Freelander, as I dont do many miles I also wanted a petrol.
Found one that was a bit of a project, nice spec, 62k, extensive history, been stood for a while and just needed some love
Gave it a very good inspection, let it idle for 30 mins, 15 minute test drive and it ran spot on, no noises or overheating

Drove through Sheffield and 10 minutes up the M1 it overheated
Due to the roadworks I pulled off at the next junction, lifted the bonnet, closed it again and rang the AA

Once it was home I decided not to rush into the HG, so water pump, stat, belts flush and refill the cooling system and it was fine, did 150 miles without issue; until I went on the motorway again.....

Now the HG is done the car is running sweet, just done 500 odd miles visiting relatives with no issues.
No pics of the HG being done, the site is full of them

Freelander-1 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

Freelander-4 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

Swapped the exhaust for the MOT

Freelander-5 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

Despite being stood 9 months it went straight through, exhaust was preventitive

Also fitted this
Freelander-9 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

Digging through the history it had a coolant cap failure, and a note saying the HG may be gone, this was 200 miles before it was parked up.
Next task is drivers regulator as it broke today, then im refurbing a VCU thanks to the info I found here as the prop had been removed (knew that before I bought it, helped with the price) I also want to swap the rack as its weeping but it looks a simple job

Once the rack and prop are done I intend to do some laning, probably set my camera up and learn how Youtube works

As the window stuck down and bits may take a while to arrive I have affected a temp repair

Remove door card

Freelander-17 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

Remove damaged regulator

Freelander-18 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

Manufacture and install temporary support device

Freelander-19 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

Rebuild door until bits arrive

You're obviously hands on - so looks like the car was ideal for you.

Just be careful - the props were removed for a reason - hopefully it was to stop problems occurring with the transmission - not because they had already occurred. Give the pinion on the IRD a wiggle see if there's any play - you could also remove the pinion and inspect the crown/pinion gears for damage. I recon its probably prudent to replace the bearings in the pinion before going back to 4WD - just to make sure its all good and tight. Can give the rear diff pinion a good wiggle as well.

grumpygel is spot on...do not just put a vcu back on..without testing ird and rear diff...or the new vcu may destroy both. vcu as been taken off for a reason ...

in the pic showing bonnet open...where is the engine..open my td4 and it booms out at you...must be a feeble engine ..if its in there

I've never had a Land Rover and I wanted something cheap to play with, I'm quite handy with the spanners and I narrowed it to this or a closer one that had a water leak and needed a clutch, I'm glad I took the risk on this as the HG was simple to do.
The story I was told is the prop was removed to repair a newer but higher mileage car, everything else is true so I see no reason not to trust that. Previous owner had it from 2006 and gave it whatever it needed, (£600 for the rear door regs, more than I paid for the car!) it then overheated and was part ex'd but simply stood for 9 months until the garage had a clear out. Was more of a hoarders yard and mot place than a forecourt if I'm honest

I've wiggled the flanges and they feel good, before I restore 4wd I always planned to have a look at the IRD and diff, never thought about the bearings but it would be daft not to while it's already in bits.

As for engine comments *yawn* I had a diesel for 2 years and hated it, I drive a van everyday and needed petrol in my life, when the sensors on the td4 fail just give me a shout, I will happily tow you to a scrap yard

You have headed down the path [ oil burners would say down the rabbit hole] that I've begun just over a year ago. These FL1 k series are easy to work on and parts are not expensive. They are a capable 4WD and comfortable to drive about in. If you look at my profile you'll see the things I've done already. Keep up with maintenance and you will enjoy your FL1.

Little mod today that makes a huge difference when fitting the head unit

Freelander to ISO adapter (actually from a 330d) plugged into Alpine loom

Freelander-20 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

Remove the middle excessive bits and solder together

Freelander-21 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

Even with the loss of flexibility due to the solder it makes fitting the head unit much easier

Nice to see someone else out there as stupid as I am. Well almost, I've done it twice now.
If it has only done 62k miles then unless you're very unlucky the IRD etc should be fine.
Just for reference which HG did you use? did you get the head skimmed?
I bought a new regulator from ebay and had it fitted in minutes, I think they're only £38 or so.
Check your fuel tank cradle as mine was rotten, If you check my thread you'll see how I fixed mine without removing it my cutting out the rotten plates and bolting in new ones. Might as well do it (if it needs doing) while the prop shaft is off.

Car looks nice, good luck with it.

Thanks @Alibro I was inspired to put the thread up after reading yours. I had the head done but he barely had you touch it, and I used the Payen multilayer gasket *touch wood* no issues yet, and I'm approaching 1000 miles since rebuild

Regulator is on its way, just the festive period and new year causing a delay in delivery. I've also checked the tank straps, only bit of rust is a tiny bit on chassis leg I will be sorting in the better weather

All being well the first weekend in Feb and it will be back to 4wd so will probably head up to North Yorkshire to test it out

Should feel much tighter when 4WD. K series isn't particularly happy running 2WD, they're a bit skittish and understeery.

Alibro said:

Should feel much tighter when 4WD. K series isn't particularly happy running 2WD, they're a bit skittish and understeery.

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there skittish has it has very light engine in so theres no front weight where td4 has quite a lump

freelanderoig said:

there skittish has it has very light engine in so theres no front weight where td4 has quite a lump

Click to expand...

Yip, as is the L series and in standard form no power either.

Alibro said:

Should feel much tighter when 4WD. K series isn't particularly happy running 2WD, they're a bit skittish and understeery.

Click to expand...

I've noticed that when pushing on a bit in the wet, not a huge issue as im advancing in age I have tended to slow down

freelanderoig said:

there skittish has it has very light engine in so theres no front weight where td4 has quite a lump

Click to expand...

BUT, as its not a TD4, I don't want/need/like/care about/have any interest in/will never drive a td4 or even like the sound they make its kind of a pointless post

I see yet another "My TD4 wont start" thread has appeared

Bit of time today to fit the nudge bar

First a before shot



Whoever removed the bar was a heavy handed heathen



I bonded a threaded insert in with some PU adhesive and used new stainless bolts



Removed the bumper and found some mounting holes that looked to be in the right place, so I offered everything up and decided to use them





I did have to modify the bracket slightly



Test fit





I followed the instructions on RAVE, plus all the holes are marked on the rear of the bumper, but it didn't fit, I had to chop a bigger piece out or the brackets held the bumper in the wrong place, i'm guessing there must be some differences between early/late that I didn't realise?

No pics of the bumper half fitted as I was annoyed, but a couple of it nailed back together





The spots need wiring in but I have plans for that

Went to scrap yard today and obtained some goodies

Genuine towbar, Witter ball and the plug in electrics
Steering rack
N/S door catch
Various bits of trim and stuff I need
The last bits to do my rear light mods

All for £60

Hopefully get everything fitted tomorrow, also picked up some Ring driving lights that will go nice with the new nudge bar

Kayos said:

Went to scrap yard today and obtained some goodies

Genuine towbar, Witter ball and the plug in electrics
Steering rack
N/S door catch
Various bits of trim and stuff I need
The last bits to do my rear light mods

All for £60

Hopefully get everything fitted tomorrow, also picked up some Ring driving lights that will go nice with the new nudge bar

Click to expand...

Crikey, was that a steal it yourself scrap yard? The ones I go to would have charged twice that.

Alibro said:

Crikey, was that a steal it yourself scrap yard? The ones I go to would have charged twice that.

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U pull it near York, everything is a set price regardless of the car it comes off, they also do wheelbarrow days, whatever you can cram in a barrow (below a certain height) is £60. I've had some good stuff in the past, worth the 50 odd mile trip but sadly freelanders are thin on the ground, one day I may drop on s new arrival

Even more done today (you can tell I'm off work)

I've never been happy with the rear lights, I found a guide to altering them but it wasn't 100% so I set about it myself.

I have altered the exposure on these shots to try and enhance the lights, ideally need some night time shots to see the effect fully

Firstly the standard lights

Side lights



Reverse lights



Brake lights



Fog lights



Indicators



Firstly I removed all the rear trim, using the RAVE wiring diagrams and tracing the wires I worked out what was what and started chopping and changing



What was the foglight I replaced with a twin filament holder from a defender and fitted the appropriate plug, the blue wire will be the side light



I fitted an amber bulb into what was the reverse light holder, no need to file the pin off as straight pin amber bulbs are readily available



I also fitted the bulb holders from an early FL1 into the bumper lights, these have an amber lens so take clear bulbs, a small amount of plastic needs to be cut off. Clear bulbs with offset pins are available, but they are an oddball and quite expensive, where as single filament straight pin bulbs are pennies





Once I was happy with how the rear lights were working I went for a sandwich, sandwich eaten and I retaped all the loom



Side Lights



Fog lights



Reverse lights



Indicators



Brake lights



I also replaced the wiper motor as intermittent was playing up and fitted a tow bar



Quite a productive day really

Lot's of nice mods / repairs

I keep pondering the rear light mods and must get my ass in gear and get it done.