My first TD4..Servicing??

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Clemmo

New Member
Posts
11
Finally took the plunge and bought a 2004 TD4.
It has 129000 mile on it.
I want to do the "best" service I can.
Are all tools standard?..or Torx?
Guess Oil and Fule filters are straightforward?
What concerns me is talk of Breathers?..Crankcase valve Filter? Turbo Boost vent filter?..all of which are new to me.???:confused:

Can any one offer any advice?.or re-assurance?..I want to do it myself but just need a little push in the right direction.

Thanks in advance for all help!!
 
Hi, all the answers you need are on the forum if you are prepared to put the time in searching. Before buying our TD4s I read every thread on here and wrote down pages of info.

Examples:
Go to Q&As section

Search for:

Service schedule
correct oils
Crankcase breather change
Workshop manual download
etc

You will need a Torx set

Good luck.D..
 
Finally took the plunge and bought a 2004 TD4.
It has 129000 mile on it.
I want to do the "best" service I can.
Are all tools standard?..or Torx?
Guess Oil and Fule filters are straightforward?
What concerns me is talk of Breathers?..Crankcase valve Filter? Turbo Boost vent filter?..all of which are new to me.???:confused:

Can any one offer any advice?.or re-assurance?..I want to do it myself but just need a little push in the right direction.

Thanks in advance for all help!!

A haynes manual will tell your what needs to be done, how to do it and at what intervals.They're invaluable. Get one from halfords.
 
:welcome2: Clemmo and congratulations - providing there's a good service history to your motor the TD4 should be the Freelander that'll give you the least amount of trouble.
1st things first get yourself a copy of RAVE - search for green oval site. This will prove very helpful for most things.
For a comprehensive service (assuming things like brakes and tyres are all ok) I'd look to ensure oil, fuel, air filter and crankcase breather get a change.
Oil & Air fairly straightforward - long allen key req'd for getting to air filter, 35mm socket for oil filter (bit of a pig to get out due to proximity to hoses - you'll see when you do it).
Changing the oil requires removal of the underbody panel to access the sump plug - advice here is make a suitable access hole in the panel to same time on future changes - plenty on here including example pics on how to do this.
Crankcase breather - search forum on how to this - it's really important as can lead to turbo failure if not done - but it's fairly easy to do once engine top cover and air filter housing are off (tip try do all at same time if you can - if only to save time).
Turbo vent filter is an easy change - although hidden at back of engine, just hangs loose - change old for new.
Fuel filter is a pig on the 2004 onwards - it's behind the rear wheel arch (drivers side) and can be very tricky to get out - again this will be well documented in the forums. (This ain't in the RAVE guide as on earlier models the fuel filter is under the bonnet)
At that mileage I'd be looking to ensure gear and diff fluids are ok - perhaps a fluid change (esp if auto box - but would suggest if uncertain get a specialist to do this as it's easy to get wrong).
Brake fluid change - will be same for most cars - again RAVE is your friend.

Oh if and it's not got one already after you've serviced it, I'd suggest getting a Ron Box - tuning module. It'll seem like a different motor altogether! Again well covered in the forums and they come with full instructions.

Can't think of anything else off top of my head - but that lot should keep you going for a while - good luck!

Cheers
N:
 
My oil filter needs a 36mm socket, & the fuel filter relocation from underbonnet to rear wheelarch happened in 2002. Also consider fitting an egr bypass and use Millers powersport 4 diesel additive regularly at double the stated dose for a small performance improvement & more importantly to keep those £150+ EACH injectors clean.
Good luck with your machine, you will enjoy & do as Norbert suggests & invest in a Roverron synergy 2 tuning module once your all sorted with servicing.
 
My oil filter needs a 36mm socket, & the fuel filter relocation from underbonnet to rear wheelarch happened in 2002. Also consider fitting an egr bypass and use Millers powersport 4 diesel additive regularly at double the stated dose for a small performance improvement & more importantly to keep those £150+ EACH injectors clean.
Good luck with your machine, you will enjoy & do as Norbert suggests & invest in a Roverron synergy 2 tuning module once your all sorted with servicing.
Thanks for the correction on the socket size Chromio - I'd tried it with an adjustable spanner at first, then after many knuckles grazed and curses a plenty finally relented and bought a socket - much easier now!
 
The fuel filter is a pig of a job but i found that its
easier to drop the complete unit, ie, the pump and the filter and take it to a vice to get the filter out, just remember where the connections go and dont forget the small earth wire thats connected to the side.
Done three times now and got it down to an hour, still got to be the worst job at service time. Also while the air filter is out i always spray some electrical contact cleaner into the air flow sensors, i find this does make a difference if done every time, also fitted silicone turbo hoses last service so they should last a while, and has said before fit a rover ron box,(setting 7) millers diesel for sport adaptive at every fill, and an erg blanking kit and you will not go far wrong.

good luck.
 
Thanks to you all! Sincere thanks..

Sounds pretty straight forward. I have now ordered my service kit (all filters) so will be able to get stuck in soon. Just not looking forward to the fuel filter!!

A couple more questions to come mind..........
  1. Any reccomendations on Oil?
  2. Whats the EGR blanking Valve mod..and what does it do?
  3. Would it still be OK to Use a "Roveron" management system on an engine with so many miles?..
Thanks again!... CLEMMO
 
[*]Would it still be OK to Use a "Roveron" management system on an engine with so many miles?..
[/LIST]Thanks again!... CLEMMO
Without knowing the history of the vehicle it's difficult to say for certain - the TD4 should be more than capable of handling those sort of miles and many many more. Ron's advice is to ensure the vehicle is properly serviced before installing the tuning module.
It's probably a good idea to check belts and pulleys at your mileage too?
 
The fuel filter is a pig of a job but i found that its
easier to drop the complete unit, ie, the pump and the filter and take it to a vice to get the filter out, just remember where the connections go and dont forget the small earth wire thats connected to the side.
Done three times now and got it down to an hour, still got to be the worst job at service time. Also while the air filter is out i always spray some electrical contact cleaner into the air flow sensors, i find this does make a difference if done every time, also fitted silicone turbo hoses last service so they should last a while, and has said before fit a rover ron box,(setting 7) millers diesel for sport adaptive at every fill, and an erg blanking kit and you will not go far wrong.

good luck.


I don't think the contact cleaner for the Maf helps on the Td4 as I'm sure it's one of these hot wire types with no moving parts. Your right about removing the whole fuel pump/filter assembly for filter changes. Next time I'm going to see if I can modify the plastic filter holder by cutting a slot along it's length & fitting a couple of large jubilee clips top & bottom & see if that eliminates the worst part of this job. Although I greased the whole filter it was a very tight fit & will be a nightmare to remove at the next service.
 
Your right about removing the whole fuel pump/filter assembly for filter changes. Next time I'm going to see if I can modify the plastic filter holder by cutting a slot along it's length & fitting a couple of large jubilee clips top & bottom & see if that eliminates the worst part of this job. Although I greased the whole filter it was a very tight fit & will be a nightmare to remove at the next service.

Did you separate the sedimenter from the filter holder to release the metal spring clip when fitting your new filter? If not it gets jammed between filter and holder on reassembly.
 
Did you separate the sedimenter from the filter holder to release the metal spring clip when fitting your new filter? If not it gets jammed between filter and holder on reassembly.


I only remember draining the sedimenter, not separating it so that's probably why the filter was so tight to fit in. Thanks for that Chaser, I'll check this out next service & see if I can persuade it to all come apart nicely assuming I haven't damaged anything.
 
I only remember draining the sedimenter, not separating it so that's probably why the filter was so tight to fit in. Thanks for that Chaser, I'll check this out next service & see if I can persuade it to all come apart nicely assuming I haven't damaged anything.

The sedimentor slides off the plastic filter housing and the little sucker is hidden inside the fitting. It seems to just be an earth connection between the pump body and the filter but it needs to be removed before swapping filters.
 
The sedimentor slides off the plastic filter housing and the little sucker is hidden inside the fitting. It seems to just be an earth connection between the pump body and the filter but it needs to be removed before swapping filters.


I do remember the earth connector now you mention it & think I did fiddle with it but not quite sure - it's been about eight months since I did it. I'll check it all out next time. Thanks
 
I do remember the earth connector now you mention it & think I did fiddle with it but not quite sure - it's been about eight months since I did it. I'll check it all out next time. Thanks

Ok, don't confuse it with the earth spade connector though, thats different.
 
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