Master cylinder on a Def. Td5

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thebiglad

Well-Known Member
Posts
7,387
Location
Central France
Hi all, my mate has a 2002 110 Defender Td5 and he wants me to fit new clutch master and slave cylinder.

Anyone done this job or got hints or tips for doing it??

Cheers
Dave
 
Hi Dave,

Oddly I only have instructions for a Left hand drive defender. But the procedure is other wise similar.

Remove clutch pedal rubber,
graze knuckles undoing the 12 bolts securing clutch and brake pedal brackets to the body.
Disconnect multiplug form clutch pedal sensor.
Disconnect multiplug and harness clip from pedal bracket.
Position cloth in attempt to collect fluid spillage.
Loosen pipe union, release pipe and plug the pipe and master cylinder.
Move brake master cylinder assembly aside and lift out clutch master cylinder assembly.
Remove 6 screws, remove pedal box top cover and discard gasket.
Remove nut securing push rod to clutch pedal trunnion.
Remove 2 bolts and remove clutch master cylinder from pedal bracket.
Remove clutch pedal sensor and pipe union from master cylinder and discard sealing washers.

Refit.
Clean sensor and pipe union.
Fit clutch pedal sensor and pipe to master cylinder using new sealing washers.
Position master cylinder to pedal bracket and align push rod to pedal trunnion.
Fit bolts and nuts and secure master cylinder to pedal bracket.
Fit nut securing push rod to clutch pedal trunnion but DO NOT tighten nut at this stage.
Move brake master cylinder aside and position clutch master cylinder assembly.
Clean clutch pipe union.
Align pipe and tighten union.
Connect multiplug to clutch pedal sensor.
Tighten bolts securing clutch pedal and brake pedal brackets to body.
Fit clutch pedal rubber.

You may find you'll have to reset the clutch pedal
 
Hi Dave,

Oddly I only have instructions for a Left hand drive defender. But the procedure is other wise similar.

Remove clutch pedal rubber,
graze knuckles undoing the 12 bolts securing clutch and brake pedal brackets to the body.
Disconnect multiplug form clutch pedal sensor.
Disconnect multiplug and harness clip from pedal bracket.
Position cloth in attempt to collect fluid spillage.
Loosen pipe union, release pipe and plug the pipe and master cylinder.
Move brake master cylinder assembly aside and lift out clutch master cylinder assembly.
Remove 6 screws, remove pedal box top cover and discard gasket.
Remove nut securing push rod to clutch pedal trunnion.
Remove 2 bolts and remove clutch master cylinder from pedal bracket.
Remove clutch pedal sensor and pipe union from master cylinder and discard sealing washers.

Refit.
Clean sensor and pipe union.
Fit clutch pedal sensor and pipe to master cylinder using new sealing washers.
Position master cylinder to pedal bracket and align push rod to pedal trunnion.
Fit bolts and nuts and secure master cylinder to pedal bracket.
Fit nut securing push rod to clutch pedal trunnion but DO NOT tighten nut at this stage.
Move brake master cylinder aside and position clutch master cylinder assembly.
Clean clutch pipe union.
Align pipe and tighten union.
Connect multiplug to clutch pedal sensor.
Tighten bolts securing clutch pedal and brake pedal brackets to body.
Fit clutch pedal rubber.

You may find you'll have to reset the clutch pedal


That's excellent, thanks very much.

I didn't know that there were electronic elements on the clutch of a TD5, as I'm just used to Tdi models, what function do they perform and is it possible to do without them?

Also you mention righ at the end of your post - "You may find you'll have to reset the clutch pedal" - what exactly do you mean by this??

I've done loads of stuff to Tdi's but I feel like I'm out of my depth a bit here. I'm sure that once we get started it'll be ok, it's just that I hate starting something without having a clear idea of all the implications of a job.

Sorry if I'm being a bit, of an old woman, it's me age guv'nr

Cheers and thanks

Dave
 
I didn't know that there were electronic elements on the clutch of a TD5, as I'm just used to Tdi models, what function do they perform and is it possible to do without them?

Also you mention righ at the end of your post - "You may find you'll have to reset the clutch pedal" - what exactly do you mean by this??

I've done loads of stuff to Tdi's but I feel like I'm out of my depth a bit here. I'm sure that once we get started it'll be ok, it's just that I hate starting something without having a clear idea of all the implications of a job.

Sorry if I'm being a bit, of an old woman, it's me age guv'nr

Cheers and thanks

Dave[/quote]

The clutch pedal sensor is connected to your engine control module and so I don't think you can do without it or bypass it.
As for resetting your clutch pedal you may not need to reset it but seein as your there you may as well check it.
Correct measurement is 140mm from the lower edge of the pedal to the floor ( without a floor mat that is) If you need to alter this then Loosen both locknuts on master cylinder push rod.
Adjust pedal stop to obtain correct setting.
Adjust master cylinder pushrod to obtain about 1.5mm free play between pushrod and master cylinder piston.
Tighten locknuts.
Check operation of clutch pedal and ensure there is a minimum of 6mm free play before pressure is felt.
Fit pedal box top cover and multiplug bracket using a new gasket and secure with screws.
Connect mutiplug and harness clip to pedal.
Bleed clutch hydraulic system.
I'm not sure wether or not your replacing the clutch slave as well??
If so then disconnect pipe from slave cylinder and plug the connections.
Position container to catch spillage.
Remove 2 bolts securing slave cylinder to bell housing (easier said than done)
withdraw slave cylinder from bell housing and push rod.

Refit.
Clean the ends of the pipes, bell housing and slave cylinder mating faces.
Lubricate end of pushrod with Molybdenum disulphide grease.
Locate slave cylinder to pushrod and bell housing.
Fit bolts and tighten to 25 Nm (18 lbf.ft)
Connect clutch pipe to slave cylinder.
Bleed clutch system.

Forgive me for stating the obvious but do not reuse fluid that has been bled from the system and make sure you maintain the reservoir between min and max throughout the whole process.

Oh yeah and good luck :D
 
The clutch pedal sensor is connected to your engine control module and so I don't think you can do without it or bypass it.

As for resetting your clutch pedal you may not need to reset it but seein as your there you may as well check it.

Correct measurement is 140mm from the lower edge of the pedal to the floor ( without a floor mat that is) If you need to alter this then Loosen both locknuts on master cylinder push rod.

Adjust pedal stop to obtain correct setting.

Adjust master cylinder pushrod to obtain about 1.5mm free play between pushrod and master cylinder piston.

Tighten locknuts.

Check operation of clutch pedal and ensure there is a minimum of 6mm free play before pressure is felt.

Fit pedal box top cover and multiplug bracket using a new gasket and secure with screws.

Connect mutiplug and harness clip to pedal.

Bleed clutch hydraulic system.


I'm not sure wether or not your replacing the clutch slave as well??

If so then disconnect pipe from slave cylinder and plug the connections.
Position container to catch spillage.

Remove 2 bolts securing slave cylinder to bell housing (easier said than done), withdraw slave cylinder from bell housing and push rod.

Refit.
Clean the ends of the pipes, bell housing and slave cylinder mating faces.

Lubricate end of pushrod with Molybdenum disulphide grease.

Locate slave cylinder to pushrod and bell housing.

Fit bolts and tighten to 25 Nm (18 lbf.ft)

Connect clutch pipe to slave cylinder.

Bleed clutch system.

Forgive me for stating the obvious but do not reuse fluid that has been bled from the system and make sure you maintain the reservoir between min and max throughout the whole process.

Oh yeah and good luck :D

After a superb response like that I'd pretty much forgive you for anything you've done in your life - EVER !!!

Just one tiny question/observation; are there any problems when it comes to withdrawing and then reinstalling the slave cylinder and pushrod assy. I thought I'd read somewhere that you had to be careful when doing this, can't remember for sure why, but is there a possibility of dropping something vital in the bellhousing?? And therefore not being able to access it for refitting?

Cheers

Dave
 
Just one tiny question/observation; are there any problems when it comes to withdrawing and then reinstalling the slave cylinder and pushrod assy. I thought I'd read somewhere that you had to be careful when doing this, can't remember for sure why, but is there a possibility of dropping something vital in the bellhousing?? And therefore not being able to access it for refitting?

Cheers

Dave

Yup your right.
Be careful to remove the pushrod with the slave cylinder and same applies with reassembly if you see what I mean;)

All the best

Steve :cool:
 
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