Main rear oil seal?

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Chrisdisco81

New Member
Posts
8
Hi Everyone
After many years repairing my 110 and replacing the engine with a disco 200tdi, it is finally on the road but I have started to get quite a bit of oil leaking from the flywheel housing. Before fitting the engine, I did replace the seal with a Dowty one (see pictures).

After using it for about a month, the leak has got a lot worse. The picture attached was after leaving it parked for an hour after a 10 mile run.

Does this look to be the main oil seal leaking? Is there anything else that could be? I have read about the oil breather might force the oil out. I have ordered a replacement to try.

Any advise before I take it to a garage and have a large bill?

Many thanks
 

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Stick the plug into the bell housing drain hole (1/4" BSP iirc) and run her around until you think it's leaked enough. Remove plug, oil runs out or not?
 
If that oil is truly leaking from the bell housings it’s either the rear crank seal or the big gasket between the fly wheel housing and engine. If both have been changed at the same time my money would be on the seal. Do what Flossie said as you’d be surprised what can leak down and look like it’s coming from the bell housing.

Dowty or corteco are the right seals to use.
 
Thanks everyone, I don’t have a plug to stick in the bell housing drain but will see if I can get one. I did replace the seal at the back of the flywheel housing when we had it apart, so don’t think it’s coming from there. I have taken a couple more pictures that might be of help.

Has anyone every heard of the breather causing this sort of problem? The engine wasn’t very well looked after by the previous owner. One thing I forgot to mention was the engine was fitted and started up then left for around 4 years. Would the seal have perished in that time?
 

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Certainly looks like it's coming from the wadeing plug hole, so rear crank seal is looking likely.
Yes, seals can dry out/be incorrectly fitted.
Breather is a possibility as is a damaged head gasket blowing through to an oil gallery, number 4 exhaust side is common.
 
The new style crank seals have to be fitted with their seal surfaces totally dry.

Annoyingly mine leaked after being renewed and it was the actual seal spinnning in the flywheel housing, new one loctited in and has been dry since.
 
It’s the seal dude. 4yrs is a long time. These engines like to be run.

The genuine seals should have green locking compound on them. At least the cortico one does. It’s easy to catch a lip when inserting. Took me two goes to do mine which cost me an extra £30 in second seal and £5 in an sauce pan I cut down to make a seal hammering in tool.
 
Thanks everyone for all your replies. I have changed the breather today and after running for 30mins, the dripping started again.

When the engine was out, I did have the head skimmed and replaced the gasket. I did try to do anything that would be easier when the engine was out. Tho looking underneath, I didn’t clean it very well!!!

I think it must be the main seal has either perished or we didn’t fit it right. I have booked it into the local garage to get it replaced and change the engine, gearbox and transmission oil while they are there.

Hopefully in a few weeks I will be trucking again!
 
Thanks everyone for all your replies. I have changed the breather today and after running for 30mins, the dripping started again.

When the engine was out, I did have the head skimmed and replaced the gasket. I did try to do anything that would be easier when the engine was out. Tho looking underneath, I didn’t clean it very well!!!

I think it must be the main seal has either perished or we didn’t fit it right. I have booked it into the local garage to get it replaced and change the engine, gearbox and transmission oil while they are there.

Hopefully in a few weeks I will be trucking again!

Worth a new clutch whilst they're at it?
 
Just a thought. You can also get oil leaking past the fly wheel bolts if they didn’t have thread locker put on them. Check for characteristic lines of oil from them down the fly wheel with a dry oil seal.

Thanks to the Norfolk garage article in LR monthly for reminding me of this
 
When the engine was changed, were the holes from the bellhousing into the ladder frame drilled through and bolts put in? Sometimes the additional bolts are not added during a conversion, this can lead to leaks. There's a good description of this on the Glencoyne website, the bolts are available from Steve Parkers.
 
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