Maf sensor part no. Please

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fourx4

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Hi, the td4 Freelander has been very lumpy at idle for a while now. It's only got 75000 miles on the clock so I was looking into cheaper possibilities before going down the replacement injector route.

I read that the MAF sensor can go and effect running, low down response etc. I decided to disconnect the sensor and give the car a run. This did not appear to effect the performance and the idle was still rough.

Firstly can anyone confirm if this is showing signs of a faulty or under performing Maf sensor?

Secondly does anyone have the part number for the replacement Bosch unit? I see a few on eBay at the moment listed at half price (£100). Don't want to purchase the wrong one.

Thanks all
 
lumpy running can also be low fuel pressure/clogged fuel or air filters or anything else clagged up in the air and fuel flow areas.

And also corroded fuel pressure sensor wires/plug or faulty fuel pressure sensor itself.

A decent garage should be able to check all these things out, as without more info diagnosis is a bit hit and miss.
 
Thanks. I have just changed the fuel and air filters. Also have the bmw crankcase breather and egr bypass fitted in the last six months.

I need to check the fuel pressure sensor and connectors. Just need to find a pic of where they are.

Back to the Maf test. If I unplugged it should I not have noticed really poor running?

Thanks
 
I need to check the fuel pressure sensor and connectors.

it's on the end of the fuel rail ..
same side of engine as the egr thingy .. ( and not far from it either )
not hard to find as one of the wiring conduits from the ecu leads directly there

when you check the plug socket 'n clean it ..
smear some 'contralube' on the pins ..
( Contralube | Contralube 770 ) .. available from maplin shops

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

rover ron's tuning website :
Tuning-diesels for low cost diesel tuning.

td4 engine faults :
ROVER 75 MGZT ENGINE FAULT FINDING

about the 'maf' sensor :
Maf sensor problems.
 
Thanks hd3. I read that you can disconnect this and start the engine to see if the idle improves. Is that ok to do without causing any damage?

Thinking that a Maf sensor (diy job) and or a new fuel pressure sensor / connector kit might be a lot cheaper than replacing injectors.
 
The Rover 75 diesel owners have long found out that bosch have been ripping us the R75 and FL 1 off as the BMW insert is just the same and a lot less than buying the whole unit, read a and find out the facts ;)
Diesel replacement Bosch MAF with or without housing? - The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums




Maf shop
MAF Air Mass Flow Meter Bosch BMW 0280217533 13621433566 - MAF Service GmbH - Luftmassenmesser-Shop


Ebay
BMW M5 Z8 E39 E52 Mass Air Flow Airflow Meter Sensor BOSCH 0280217533 MAF | eBay


If you must buy the whole unit
Land Rover MHK101130 75 ZT MG Mass Air Flow Sensor Meter BOSCH 0928400520 MAF | eBay
 
Many thanks for those links Arctic.

So I think I will just purchase a whole unit. Not much more and to be honest I don't have the bit to remove the torx screws from the sensor.

Does the complete unit just 'clip on' - no screws are difficulty involved removing it?

Thanks again
 
Many thanks for those links Arctic.

So I think I will just purchase a whole unit. Not much more and to be honest I don't have the bit to remove the torx screws from the sensor.

Does the complete unit just 'clip on' - no screws are difficulty involved removing it?

Thanks again

have to get the torx bits, there sods to get out , as they have a small dot inside the torx screw

if u look on the link hd3 provided they sell the torx bits

http://www.tuning-diesels.co.uk/our-range/tools-dash-switches/

the unit comes out complete then

hope this isn't rude of me have u tried to clean it first before replacing

have u disconnected the maf yet to see if it makes any difference when driving up the road to test it , it won't do any harm if it's just up the road
 
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Hi, yes I disconnected the MAF and drove the car. No difference really, maybe only a bit more pull (over fuelling?) I read that if it made no difference it's likely the sensor has gone? I am treating it as a serviceable part. Cheaper diy fix than getting a garage to replace injectors. They did a leak back test and all was ok.
 
Hi, yes I disconnected the MAF and drove the car. No difference really, maybe only a bit more pull (over fuelling?) I read that if it made no difference it's likely the sensor has gone? I am treating it as a serviceable part. Cheaper diy fix than getting a garage to replace injectors. They did a leak back test and all was ok.

ok mate ,

may be worth giving the maf a good clean and also taking apart the fuel rail sensor connector and using a good electrical cleaner on both to ensure that's ok

if u replace the maf and there's no difference it could indeed be the low pressure sensor or wiring to it

at least the injectors are ok

when u pull the maf out be very careful as there's a very thin wire going across it , never know may just be dirty

could always pull the map sensor out as well

with an electrical cleaner u get a small tube that will go down the middle of it when u remove it and spray inside the hole to ensure its all nice and clean

that sits as u look at the engine on the left hand side , attached to the air inlet plastic assembly , near the air inlet hose

plus actually if u remove the plastic air, intercooler plastic assembly that sits on top of the engine u could check the vaccuum hoses for splits ,as there's been a few of us where holes have been burnt through the hoses

also need to ensure the bosch maf is the correct part number as there are copies on ebay etc

just thinking of ideas that u can then check without costing u much money and eliminate them

hope u get on ok and please let us all know how u get on

cheers
 
Many thanks for those links Arctic.

So I think I will just purchase a whole unit. Not much more and to be honest I don't have the bit to remove the torx screws from the sensor.

Does the complete unit just 'clip on' - no screws are difficulty involved removing it?

Thanks again


There are a couple of screws to remove, but as of yet I have not replaced one on a FL but quite a few on the R75 M47 diesel link below
Fitting a new maf sensor & PCV filter - The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums
 
There are a couple of screws to remove, but as of yet I have not replaced one on a FL but quite a few on the R75 M47 diesel link below
Fitting a new maf sensor & PCV filter - The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums

just had a look at that link and can't understand why they've taken so much out

when I put a new bosch maf in mine all i had to do was remove the intercooler / air / top section , then unscrewed the maf and that was it ,

did have to remove the air filter cover in order i could unplug the maf lead but certainly didn't have to unclip all that housing

wonder why they do that with the rovers ???
 
just had a look at that link and can't understand why they've taken so much out

when I put a new bosch maf in mine all i had to do was remove the intercooler / air / top section , then unscrewed the maf and that was it ,

did have to remove the air filter cover in order i could unplug the maf lead but certainly didn't have to unclip all that housing

wonder why they do that with the rovers ???

Hi Stuart.
I did that how to we/I remove the main maf housing as there is not as much room as in the FL engine bay, also in conjunction with air filter, PCV filter, turbo hose checking etc :D
 
Hi Stuart.
I did that how to we/I remove the main maf housing as there is not as much room as in the FL engine bay, also in conjunction with air filter, PCV filter, turbo hose checking etc :D

I just removed the top plastic section and air filter bix then unplug the maf, maybe it's easier that thay to remove the housing by undoing the clips

when I was doing all the top end clean up, ie cleaning the inlet manifold etc that's the first time I noticed the clips and thought that looks fun to get apart

know the 2 x screws to get the maf out was a sod ,realised there was like a small dot of metal in the centre of the torx screw , I put in ordinary torx screws after , smeared the o ring with silicone grease to protect it and see it will only go in one way

thinking if there's a way via a multimeter to test the maf on a bench , still got my old one and just thought then about doing a resistance test and compare the two with the one I have fitted and the old one

I thought then maybe put it up as a sticky post , but don't know which terminals to test and what the readings should be


know there's a reading with the engine running , but just wished to test a maf whilst out and using a multimeter

anygood do u think plse
 
Brilliant guys. The pics are really helpful. Think I will take the easy option. Take the sensor out of the housing and clean or replace. I can see those other two screws holding the Maf housing in place being lost for good. Thanks again both for your help.
 
that thin piece of wire is a diode of some sort which I am trying to find out I have there are a back to back diode but I am not sure I will have to take mine off and have a good look and test.
 
that thin piece of wire is a diode of some sort which I am trying to find out I have there are a back to back diode but I am not sure I will have to take mine off and have a good look and test.

yes got an old bosch maf , know the small wire u mean , did u want any pics of it or a mulitmeter put across it as a comparrison ?.

if I can help plse give me a shout
 
Old thread but thinking about changing the maf with the BMW part, unfortunately your pics are no longer available in that thread :/

Hi Jay247.
Yes I am afraid that Photo bucket bought out (Tinypic) whom I used for all my how to's and they closed it down, doing so it removes all photo's I am at present trying to repair each and ever how to, mammoth task as I have done at least 50 how to over the last 10 years, link below for a bosch maf. you will need a security torx if you just change the insert,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-Ma...a=0&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
 
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