Looking for connectors / Now Found
- Thread starter gstuart
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
brian47
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 8,867
You gonna let us in on the secret then?Now found
Last edited:
brian47
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 8,867
@gstuart
They solder on Gary, or are you going to crimp them? What size cable are you going to use? If you are soldering, get them good and hot first.
I'll be doing some heavy current work on mine too, when the weather gets warmer, I want to fit a 100Amp/75mVolt shunt for an ammeter in the battery lead, between the battery and the fuse board so that's going to take a short length of 35 square mil, but I do already have the kit so that I can crimp them. Properly done and tight, a crimp is a better connection than a soldered joint.
They solder on Gary, or are you going to crimp them? What size cable are you going to use? If you are soldering, get them good and hot first.
I'll be doing some heavy current work on mine too, when the weather gets warmer, I want to fit a 100Amp/75mVolt shunt for an ammeter in the battery lead, between the battery and the fuse board so that's going to take a short length of 35 square mil, but I do already have the kit so that I can crimp them. Properly done and tight, a crimp is a better connection than a soldered joint.
Last edited:
hi
sounds an interesting project , is that for a winch
going to crimp them, bought a cheap hydraulic crimper off ebay, the cable is 110 amp 16mm , been using 25/8 crimps as i found the 25mm to crimp up better and also the collar sits nice against the cable end
the first one i crimped i put it in the vice and couldn’t pull the terminal off as i wanted to ensure they were nice and tight, along with some heatshrink and flexible conduit
these are the leads i’ve made up so far , still got plenty to do and save me then being out in the cold longer than necessary, lol
brian47
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 8,867
Nah, just a panel digital voltmeter/ammeter on the dashboard as a bit of a project, nothing more but I do like to know what's going on in the elastictrickery department.
The volts I can pick up quite easily from the fuse board in the cabin but the current needs high power leads and it's not really a good idea to go feeding them all over the place, apart from which the only ammeters which don't need an external shunt read up to a maximum of just 10 amps. The leads also need to be as short as possible in order to limit the voltage drop along them, so I've "budgeted" for no more than about a foot to eighteen inches.
I know I could probably get away with a 50 Amp shunt but I don't subscribe to the "get away with" philosophy, I prefer a safety margin so I'll be using a 100 Amp shunt. And while the shunt carries the current the wiring to the ammeter can then be a thin cable; much easier to feed through panel grommets.
i’m the same , always better to install cables that are over than under, surprising what u can know get off the internet regarding electronics
i’m lazy and bought one of these plugins, lol
can’t believe how power hungry the D3 is , got a brand new battery 110 amp 900 cca and if i don’t use the landy will go flat after 3 x weeks, can’t find any residual drain and also checked the ac side of the alternator to ensure it was ok
all interior bulbs are now led , another reason i’m fitting a split charge system
have recently bought a CTEK battery charger and pulled the battery out today and got that on charge , with the regeneration setting on
there must be something that’s causing the drain , as i need to ensure everything is 100% before i install the aux battery
am going to try my other multimeter to double check things as it’s bugging me
found a chart and normal battery drainage when the landy is alarmed is around 30ma
Last edited:
