Series 2 Lights Switch and Dynamo Connections

Hello All,

I'm trying to work out a few things from my current wiring - I'm looking for some help to work out whether my lights switch on the dash is working, and how it should work if it is; also, what Dynamo I have fitted and what the connector/pin out is on it. Any help would be much appreciated!

First - lights switch. It has 3 switch positions and 8 connections on the back, numbered 1-8. connections 2,3 & 5 don't have spade terminals.

I'm not sure what I was expecting, but with a multimeter I've not managed to get much sense out of it. It seems that pins 1,3,5 & 7 are always connected together (i.e. LHS in photo), pin 6 is connected to those when the switch is in mid/upper positions, and 4 is connected to them when in the down position.
This doesn't seem right, as effectively the switch only has 2 positions?

Cany anyone help with an internal diagram of the switch, and how they'd expect it to be wired up? Is it broken?

Dynamo - can anyone identify this dynamo? The connector on it is quite modern so I'm wondering if it's a dynamo at all - but then I can't explain the regulator on the vehicle if it's not. It's labelled Lucas.

Does anyone know the pin out for the connector - if it's a dynamo, which is D and which is F inside the plug? It's not got spade terminals.


Thanks in advance!

B

Well first thing is that is not a dynamo,it is an alternator.Alternators have thr regulator/rectifier built in behind the plastic cowl.
Dynamo would have its regulator mounted on the bulkhead
What year is your landy?

Interesting.. it's a long story - it's a 1969 2A SWB, that started life as a petrol - but in the 90's it was fitted with a 5 bearing diesel. It has a regulator on the bulkhead and was plumbed up via it, although I think with very few of the connectors on the alternator used. When I took it apart it had a thick wire running to the dynamo connector on the regulator and a thin wire running to the charge light (and nothing running to the field connector on the regulator).

It was running when I bought it but it's entirely possible it wasn't actually charging the battery - the joys of buying a project with limited experience... Would the way I've described it wired above do anything at all? I guess feeding a rectified voltage to a regulator probably wouldn't so it any harm, and the field connector wouldn't be needed..

Can of worms opened I suspect... I was going to keep the diesel because it's part of the vehicles story, but I guess fitting a dynamo to it is a bit of a silly thing to do. Any suggestions?

I've had a look inside the regulator, and aside from the shunt coils being broken and the points rather corroded, it is at least unmodified. At the same time a review of the drawings I made as I stripped the wiring suggest that the alternator does not connect directly to the regulator; rather it connects to the starter solenoid and charge light as per a 'standard' alternator conversion.

So I suspect the regulator has been re-purposed as a glorified junction box - I'll dig back through my notes to work out what was connected to what (and what did/didn't work) out of interest. But I think I'm heading down the route of adopting the regulator housing as a glorified junction box and hiding additional fuses in it.

Unless anyone has any other suggestions?

The first thins is it a dyanmo regualtor, if so it will have somethig like FADE on the terminals. One big double spade usuallly hhas the batt and fuse connections so it may have been left in circuit but just acting as a connector. It could also be an alternator regualtor (much smaller) as som eearly alternotrs used separate regultors, By and large teh easiest way is to by pass the lot and buy a recon alternator as they don't cost much, and get a bigger one. Early ones were quite low output. Dynamos were often 40 amps and so a 45 or 50 amp alternor seemed a lot, but now you would expect 65 / 70 with new cars running 120 amp or more. Re the switch. Inside it is 2 bars that go across the switch. In pos one they are both opposite the toggle, in pos 2 (centre) they are both in the middle and pos 3 they are at the other end. Side/rear go to the one that has two positions, heads go to the top one and live to the one thats in two bits.

I'm pretty sure the light swith is (in your photo) - top left - read/side. Top right - head, bottom right - power. wait till you get to the wiper park cicuit, the most counter intuitive thing ever. (clue - its a 2 way switch wired pos to com, wiper to both outputs, one to park and one to run)