P38A Leaking Oil gasket (blankin cap)+ Torque values

Hey! I've had a, not severe leak, but quite some dripping from my EGR blanking cap (I have a 1997, 96 late built) 2.5 DSE with the M51 bmw.
I'm just wondering if i need to undo the valve top or whatever its called, in order to change the gasket for the "blanking cap" 'The seal on the blanking cap is pushing on the valve top gasket. and it pushes it out of its position.


Do i need to replace my valve top gasket if i just untorque them a very little bit so i can bend up the front of the valve top? I do have a very small drip from that too, but i got a long 2000km trip on next weekend, so i need confirmation if i need to replace the gasket or not so i can order a new one Gotta be express shipping

The reason i want to replace the gasket is mainly because oil does indeed drip down on one of the belts... (blanking cap)

I tough it would be easy to just replace the blanking cap o ring, but had no idea there was a flappy flap from the valve top gasket there..
And also, i suppose i should be torque them down to some NM?
I found this in my manual (i believe rave)

Camshaft cover blanking plate bolts 22NM, but about the top i dont find any (if this is right?)

And anyone got the NM for the intake manifold? its the aluminium one. Must i cross pattern tighten or something on this?

Cheers from a p38 who wishes its gasket gets replaced

Theres more gaskets in need for a replacement, but thoose for another time

P38 dse`s didnt have egr till 98-99 so sounds like its had a later engine fitted, egr came out when they changed to a plastic inlet manifold, can you post a pick it will help to see what you need to do.

brianp38dse said:

P38 dse`s didnt have egr till 98-99 so sounds like its had a later engine fitted, egr came out when they changed to a plastic inlet manifold, can you post a pick it will help to see what you need to do.

Click to expand...

He's possibly talking about the cam sprocket cover on the early one where the erg fits on the later engine.

synchro said:

Hey! I've had a, not severe leak, but quite some dripping from my EGR blanking cap (I have a 1997, 96 late built) 2.5 DSE with the M51 bmw.
I'm just wondering if i need to undo the valve top or whatever its called, in order to change the gasket for the "blanking cap" 'The seal on the blanking cap is pushing on the valve top gasket. and it pushes it out of its position.


Do i need to replace my valve top gasket if i just untorque them a very little bit so i can bend up the front of the valve top? I do have a very small drip from that too, but i got a long 2000km trip on next weekend, so i need confirmation if i need to replace the gasket or not so i can order a new one Gotta be express shipping

The reason i want to replace the gasket is mainly because oil does indeed drip down on one of the belts... (blanking cap)

I tough it would be easy to just replace the blanking cap o ring, but had no idea there was a flappy flap from the valve top gasket there..
And also, i suppose i should be torque them down to some NM?
I found this in my manual (i believe rave)

Camshaft cover blanking plate bolts 22NM, but about the top i dont find any (if this is right?)

And anyone got the NM for the intake manifold? its the aluminium one. Must i cross pattern tighten or something on this?

Cheers from a p38 who wishes its gasket gets replaced

Theres more gaskets in need for a replacement, but thoose for another time

Click to expand...

22Nm sounds about right. All the ally is soft as cheese so be really careful: clean all threads and maybe a smidge of grease or light oil.

If you see my attachments, the blank plate image is the seal i replaced, but i could not get it properly sealed when the top valve cover were torqued all up.
I loosened the top abit in order to lift it up abit in order to get the blank plate properly in with its new seal. Since the seal on the blank plate "collided" with a part of the top seal, above the gear/sprocket dunno thingy "place where plate goes"

So my question are really just what NM i need to torque the top for, and if it is fine that i undid the top and didn't replace seal, it still looks snug. I guess i'll just find out if she leaks?

AAAND i am probably going to replace a u-joint where the front axle is, towards the transfercase. any tips about this? is it fine driving it up on a car ramp (2 wheels up in the sky, front wheels) and just chock off the rear wheels from behind? I've heard the car usually rolls abit or loosens when you undo the axle? I don't know if i break forum rules by not making another thread, im new here so.

I dont understand why theres no EGR on the p38 m51, isn't there one in the all the bmws with m51? I mean, i guess non EGR is better for the engine lifetime, but if im not wrong its just the way land rover did it?
They just blanked the EGR from the factory?

*edit, i got it in after loosening the top* Note theese are not my pictures. I did not completly remove the top. maybe half at max.

synchro said:

If you see my attachments, the blank plate image is the seal i replaced, but i could not get it properly sealed when the top valve cover were torqued all up.
I loosened the top abit in order to lift it up abit in order to get the blank plate properly in with its new seal. Since the seal on the blank plate "collided" with a part of the top seal, above the gear/sprocket dunno thingy "place where plate goes"

So my question are really just what NM i need to torque the top for, and if it is fine that i undid the top and didn't replace seal, it still looks snug. I guess i'll just find out if she leaks?

AAAND i am probably going to replace a u-joint where the front axle is, towards the transfercase. any tips about this? is it fine driving it up on a car ramp (2 wheels up in the sky, front wheels) and just chock off the rear wheels from behind? I've heard the car usually rolls abit or loosens when you undo the axle? I don't know if i break forum rules by not making another thread, im new here so.

I dont understand why theres no EGR on the p38 m51, isn't there one in the all the bmws with m51? I mean, i guess non EGR is better for the engine lifetime, but if im not wrong its just the way land rover did it?
They just blanked the EGR from the factory?

*edit, i got it in after loosening the top* Note theese are not my pictures. I did not completly remove the top. maybe half at max.

Click to expand...

The bla king plate is for the vacuum pump needed for the egr valve. Just an oring should surfice with a touch of sealer to help seal it up. The bts I'd just tighten using a 1/4" ratchet and fell the bolts stop naturally. If in doubt put a tiny bit of loctite and they shouldn't shift under vibration.

You shouldn’t have EGR. That’s the cam sprocket cover (22nm)
Cam cover itself should be tightened/undone in cross pattern yes to avoid uneven stress

+1 oil on threads they are easy to snap the studs.

RangeRoller dt said:

You shouldn’t have EGR. That’s the cam sprocket cover (22nm)
Cam cover itself should be tightened/undone in cross pattern yes to avoid uneven stress

+1 oil on threads they are easy to snap the studs.

Click to expand...

Thanks, now i know!
I have become wiser about the P38 today thanks to you all.

Thread is solved.

What’s the part number for the gasket?

As Brian said, EGR came in sometime around 1998. Not all M51 are the same. It went into lots of things.

61X3,5 original bmw vacum pump oil seal, dont know part number it just says original vacum pump oil seal where i bought it

synchro said:

Thanks, now i know!
I have become wiser about the P38 today thanks to you all.

Thread is solved.

Click to expand...

Glad to see I was right, good guess eh, post#3.restored my faith in my memory and powers of deduction.

tomcat59alan said:

Glad to see I was right, good guess eh, post#3.restored my faith in my memory and powers of deduction.

Click to expand...

Well done grasshopper Glad to see you did pay attention in classes

Non EGR cam blanking cap 0-ring is

stc 2219
or generic 8510328