Freelander 1 lazy thermostat ?

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tlo

Active Member
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558
Location
nottingham
I would like you advice on this please the only time my temp gauge ever gets any higher i.e straight up is when it has been on a run and is then ticking over .
20170916_193926.jpg
99% of the time it stays in the same place as in the pic does that look ok to you ?
 
I fitted a Renault 5 thermostat to the top hose yesterday for the same issue. It's a common fix for TD4's in Freelanders and Rovers. Lots of info around here how to do it.
Edit, Mine was probably a bit worse but you'll find it getting slower and slower getting up to temp in the winter.
 
Don't know about lazy but it looks like it is open all the time so your engine isn't getting up to temp. The bodge/fix takes around an hour to do (plus a fair amount of sweating and swearing) and the thermostat is only a few quid. DMGRS do a kit but if you have plenty of jubilee clips you only need the thermostat.
 
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sorry to be a total plonker but when I first start the car the gauge is on cold , 99% of my journeys are short and the gauge only ever gets to were it is in the picture only sometimes straight up on longer trips . Why is the thermostat open all the time ?
 
sorry to be a total plonker but when I first start the car the gauge is on cold , 99% of my journeys are short and the gauge only ever gets to were it is in the picture only sometimes straight up on longer trips . Why is the thermostat open all the time ?
I guess the spring must weaken so they leak and let coolant through the radiator when it is still cold. Mine was exactly the same but now it gets up to temp in only a few miles. I believe it effects fuel economy and how well it runs.
 
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I would like you advice on this please the only time my temp gauge ever gets any higher i.e straight up is when it has been on a run and is then ticking over . 99% of the time it stays in the same place as in the pic does that look ok to you ?

So I do have a lazy thermostat

sorry to be a total plonker but when I first start the car the gauge is on cold , 99% of my journeys are short and the gauge only ever gets to were it is in the picture only sometimes straight up on longer trips . Why is the thermostat open all the time ?

I had a similar problem. But just to let you know, can't promise what I say will fix your Land Rover, as my similar problem was related to my old car, a Ford Focus 1.8 before replaced by my Land Rover.

The thermostat may have been damaged, and/or you may have coolant leak. This was the cause of why my temp gauge on my Ford Focus, did a similar thing to what you say. Too low until a very long journey, and not always very upright at the halfway mark, mostly just a little below the halfway mark (on the cold side). Would be advisable to have a garage (unless you're experienced?) take the thermostat apart and check it.
 
I had this issue where the temp would never get higher than the 10 o clock position. The heating was poor.

I installed the second thermostat in the hose and now the temp is where it should be at 12 o clock and I get much more heat to keep me warm in winter.
 
I had a similar problem. But just to let you know, can't promise what I say will fix your Land Rover, as my similar problem was related to my old car, a Ford Focus 1.8 before replaced by my Land Rover.

The thermostat may have been damaged, and/or you may have coolant leak. This was the cause of why my temp gauge on my Ford Focus, did a similar thing to what you say. Too low until a very long journey, and not always very upright at the halfway mark, mostly just a little below the halfway mark (on the cold side). Would be advisable to have a garage (unless you're experienced?) take the thermostat apart and check it.
Dodgy thermostat is VERY common in Rover/LandRover TD4's and they are a real pig to replace, hence the 'fix' that has been tried and tested for years. You could take it to a garage and pay them over a hundred quid to replace it or you could pay a tenner for a new thermostat and fix it yourself.
You pays your money.....
 
Genuine BMW stats are about £30 from Island 4x4 and open at 88C, and there is a Rover 75/ MG specialist making them that open at 92C for about the same price.
 
Genuine BMW stats are about £30 from Island 4x4 and open at 88C, and there is a Rover 75/ MG specialist making them that open at 92C for about the same price.
I think the reason folk go for the bodge is because it is a fairly difficult and time consuming job replacing the original thermostat and there is a risk of another part failing while doing it. Sorry can't remember what it is but maybe @Nodge68 will see this and comment.
 
I think the reason folk go for the bodge is because it is a fairly difficult and time consuming job replacing the original thermostat and there is a risk of another part failing while doing it. Sorry can't remember what it is but maybe @Nodge68 will see this and comment.
I've done a couple of thermostats and a pump and I don't think it's that bad to do. As a stand alone job it takes a bit of time, but if it's done when doing a service then it doesn't add too much.
 
I think the reason folk go for the bodge is because it is a fairly difficult and time consuming job replacing the original thermostat and there is a risk of another part failing while doing it. Sorry can't remember what it is but maybe @Nodge68 will see this and comment.

It's faster and cheaper to do the in pipe thermostat mod. This is why I did it to mine and a few others too.
If I was changing a TD4 water pump. Then I'd fit a new thermostat at the same time. I don't know if there's actually any difference between the 88° and 92° thermostat. It could be they perform the same in real terms, with slightly different test conditions being used for both.
If they are different, then the 92° will give a warmer heater, with slightly improved economy and emissions.
The 88° stat would probably give slightly improved performance and marginally less economy.
I suspect the difference is minimal however.
 
It's faster and cheaper to do the in pipe thermostat mod. This is why I did it to mine and a few others too.
If I was changing a TD4 water pump. Then I'd fit a new thermostat at the same time. I don't know if there's actually any difference between the 88° and 92° thermostat. It could be they perform the same in real terms, with slightly different test conditions being used for both.
If they are different, then the 92° will give a warmer heater, with slightly improved economy and emissions.
The 88° stat would probably give slightly improved performance and marginally less economy.
I suspect the difference is minimal however.
The lads on the Rover/MG forum that have fitted the 92° stat claim improved mpg and better heater output.
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections...el-thermostat-kit-aftermarket-revised-version
 
I fitted a Renault 5 thermostat to the top hose yesterday for the same issue. It's a common fix for TD4's in Freelanders and Rovers. Lots of info around here how to do it.
Edit, Mine was probably a bit worse but you'll find it getting slower and slower getting up to temp in the winter.

Happy New year Alibro and all members of this forum, my thermostat stayed open as they like to do during the winter when you need it to work so I did your Renault 5 fix and stuffed it up the tube with the help of a smear of vaseline. Thank you all for this valuable tip, the temp was up to normal within miniutes of fitting, now runs at 88 - 92 degrees and i don't have to wear 3 jumpers, 1 balaclava and a pair of gloves to go for a drive.
Warm regards
Paul ps I forgot to mention that my friend, an 80+ year old mechanic, suggested that I drill a 1mm hole through the body to allow a little water to pass otherwise it will take longer for the thermostat to work. He maintains that it takes some time for the heat to move from the engine, up the tube to the thermostat, the small hole allows a flow of water that brings the hot water up to the thermostat a lot quicker. What do you all think?
 
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Happy New year Alibro and all members of this forum, my thermostat stayed open as they like to do during the winter when you need it to work so I did your Renault 5 fix and stuffed it up the tube with the help of a smear of vaseline. Thank you all for this valuable tip, the temp was up to normal within miniutes of fitting, now runs at 88 - 92 degrees and i don't have to wear 3 jumpers, 1 balaclava and a pair of gloves to go for a drive.
Warm regards
Paul ps I forgot to mention that my friend, an 80+ year old mechanic, suggested that I drill a 1mm hole through the body to allow a little water to pass otherwise it will take longer for the thermostat to work. He maintains that it takes some time for the heat to move from the engine, up the tube to the thermostat, the small hole allows a flow of water that brings the hot water up to the thermostat a lot quicker. What do you all think?
Well done for sorting it and Happy New Year to all too. I think I may have heard something along the same lines as your mechanic friend suggested but I just stuffed mine in and so far so good.
 
I fitted a Renault 5 thermostat to the top hose yesterday for the same issue. It's a common fix for TD4's in Freelanders and Rovers. Lots of info around here how to do it.
Edit, Mine was probably a bit worse but you'll find it getting slower and slower getting up to temp in the winter.
Mine rarely goes above the 10 o clock mark and heating is rubbish. Where is the info on how to fit the other thermostat please.
 
I had this issue where the temp would never get higher than the 10 o clock position. The heating was poor.

I installed the second thermostat in the hose and now the temp is where it should be at 12 o clock and I get much more heat to keep me warm in winter.
Any more detail of where and how you fitted the other thermostat please? A picture even?
 
I am a novice to car mechanics and I managed the in-line stat mod with relative ease, took me a weekend because I decided to clean the inlet manifold at the same time, but if I was just doing the modification I think it would have taken me about 2hrs (much of that time was taking off and putting the inlet manifold back on). I used the following video as a guide, was pretty much spot on apart from that I didn’t realise that all the coolant would flood out (stupid I know).



Two words of warning (from a novice perspective):

1) if you choose to remove the inlet manifold, be very careful when lifting it off and the rubber gaskets could fall in the inlets, in my case they were all firmly attached but might be good to have a spotter

2) stuff loads of rags, paper tissue around the hose to make sure the starter motor is protected from the inevitable flood of coolant!
 
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