Last resort, is rad blocked and causing pressurising problems?

D1 300tdi

I've had a serious pressurising problem which I've covered in another thread. Eventually changed head gasket (Elring) although old one looked fine as well as having head pressure tested and skimmed.

My local indie LR people said to take an age to bleed it and and then some, they can be sods. Well, I've never had a problem in the past when I've replaced the coolant but I did just that.

Anyway, I fitted a new OEM thermostat for good measure, left her ticking over for about 2 hours with front on ramps for added height. I've squeezed and vented so many times it's untrue, hot air from heaters and no apparent air in the system. Finally took her for a 3 mile spin....

PRESSURISED - dammit. Top hose feels hard but, this time, instead of topping her up I'm leaving her to cool down and will check in the morning and top up.

While the head was off I also took the rad out and flushed it both ways with fairy liquid. Plenty of ****ty stuff to start with but had it running clear both ways.

What I did notice just now, after this short run, was only a quarter of the rad felt "warm", the warm quarter being by the bottom hose (bottom half, near side half). Everywhere else was cold. She was at full running temp and heaters were blasting hot air.

Could this be the cause of my problems as it only ever pressurises when hot, she can sit forever at idle without a problem. Is it worth having the rad out again for an extended flush or does it sound terminally blocked and needing replacement?

I'm at my wits end with the damn thing now and can't even trust her for a 20 mile round trip.

sounds like a bloked rad may also be something engine wise as you say about head gasket might be woth cylinder leak test to make sure

my advice would be get some good rad flush, drain rad out if coolant is in it and fill with water and a can of rad flush, remove the viscous fan for this or it wont get hot enough and follow instructions on the tin try leaving in over night and do same the next day, then allow to cool and then drain.

i say without coolant as its cheeper for you and better for the enviroment if it keeps boiling over and when its clear you can see what comes out (scale and oxidised crep i bet) but at this time of year it may be a good idea to use a coolant freindly one.

wyns one is good

if it dont clear i would seriousley recomend another one as it wont get better.

i have a place here that sleans them talk to a lorry center or garage thay may be able to advise local place.

i would recomend once cleared/replaced i would recomend you refill with deionised water so you dont get scale or oxidisation in the cooling system change every 36months and you should not have the hassel again

hope this helps

bollox to cleaning it, get a new one but make sure it's a proper one with the baffle in so it circulates correctly. if it's that badly blocked you are ****ing in the wind trying to clean it out.

gegs88 said:

bollox to cleaning it, get a new one but make sure it's a proper one with the baffle in so it circulates correctly. if it's that badly blocked you are ****ing in the wind trying to clean it out.

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Such as this one?:

Radiator 300Tdi BTP2275 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

I'm not paying over £300 plus VAT for genuine.

buy new rad check pressure bypass valve

I suspected mine was blocked on the D2 so bought a new one for £85 + VAT. I did a flow test on the old one and there was sod all wrong with it (hence why now doing the head)

Assuming 300 TDi rad is similar to mine then remove it and stand it vertically on its end so you have the inlet / outlet in the 12 & 6 O'clock position. Cover lowest outlet with flat of your palm and fill rad with clean water all the way to the top. Then take your palm away quickly. If the water projects about 18 inches then it is not blocked. If it flows significantly less then it is.

T

Check out kempston radiators, remaufactured ones, just got one for my disco.
Have u checked water pump ? Also flushed through with hoses disconnected ? Do all hoses get warm ? Could be an air lock in rad.
Good luck !

fanatic said:

buy new rad check pressure bypass valve

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Isn't that part of the thermostat? I just fitted a new OEM stat as part of my cover all possibilities approach.

****ed off that I've done a needless head gasket but I'll chalk it up to being preventative rather than have it fail!

Hunty said:

Check out kempston radiators, remaufactured ones, just got one for my disco.
Have u checked water pump ? Also flushed through with hoses disconnected ? Do all hoses get warm ? Could be an air lock in rad.
Good luck !

Click to expand...

New OEM water pump (Airtek), I had the rad out and flushed/reverse flushed. Hoses are warm, not hot. It's a definite bottom corner of the rad that warms up, the rest is just stone cold.

I'll call Kempston rads, what did they charge?

gegs88 said:

bollox to cleaning it, get a new one but make sure it's a proper one with the baffle in so it circulates correctly. if it's that badly blocked you are ****ing in the wind trying to clean it out.

Click to expand...

I found this on another forum:

300 Tdi Radiator - Technical - Cape Land Rover Club News Site

Is this what you mean by a proper one that circulates correctly?

you cant do a proper flow test on a rad by filling it up and blocking it with your hand etc.. take it to a rad specialst who has the right gear.