Freelander 1 Jetco box problem

Hi, I need help, Living in Spain, driving along a sudden clunk from the gearbox, happened a few times so I brought it to my local garage (good mech. very honest) he changed the oil Havoline/Velvoline 111, after asking the LR agent. Gear box like new for the next 2/3 weeks then the same clunk but now more often, after a few days it had F4, so back to garage, he made contact with other auto mech, they said to replace the valve box in the gearbox. Never heard of it, What DO You Knowledgeable People Think. Its 2002 and I do not want to spend a fortune on it. Help please. Malcolm.

Need more symptoms to identify the problem. It's also a good plan to read the stored codes in the box ECU (TCM)

This problem happens in the gear shifting?
Big chances to be the solenoids. I had a problem in the gear change from 3rd to 4th, where the box returns to 1st and RPM go revs. Changed only the "Shift B" solenoid and fixed the problem.

It will be the solenoids we changed them on my mates gaylander common fault simple repair Google it, no need to drop the oil either. You can even buy a repair kit
https://cobratransmission.com/jf506...id-kit-98420?gclid=CKz5yt3cptICFQuNGwodsncP1Q

@Hippo done an excellent ohms resistance sheet to test all of the solonoids

hope u don't mind me asking but did the garage do the oil change correctly

wonder also if the adjustment plate is in the correct position

seeing there's so many horror stories concerning either under or over filled jatco gearboxes

@Hippo is the guru when it comes to these boxes , he should be along soon to help

as @Nodge68 has also said, good idea to get the codes read

F4 flashing is normally related to an electrical problem. The barrel connectors can come apart, or yer may have a problem with yer wiring harness from the auto's computer to the auto itself.

The bang can be caused by low auto oil. It will be OK when cold. Then bang into gear when warm. Have a look underneath to see if it's leaking auto oil.

Bangs when changing gear can be caused by problems with solenoids or sensors telling the auto's computer incorrect values. A resistance test is the first step, then check the auto oil level. Oil level must be checked with the engine running, using the correct method.

The valve body... He's referring to the solenoids at the front of the auto. Yer can change this, but I would hope he has done tests first to find out.

Try not to drive it like this or yer could make it worse.

Struggling to post links

Read this for more info:

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/jatco-auto-box-is-this-true.231171/

When a solenoid packs up, the gears slam in, you'll get a jolt through the car. Not a massive job to have done and the solenoids/valves have come down alot in price since I had mine done.
But it's worth checking the barrel connectors and other electrics first.
Mike

First of all, Many thanks for your replies, and I will have the solenoids checked. I stopped driving it after the F4 came up and brought it to the garage, it still has 4th and reverse.I do not know if the oil change was done correctly Hippo, but it was perfect for 2 to 3 weeks after and then started again. I will check prices with Cobra and Ashcroft Biketeacherdave, and order on Monday. Again thank you all, and please keep an eye on what I am doing. (being retired is not always fun). Malcolm.

See here: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/diy-rebuild-kits/jatco-rebuild-kits.html

Good day all. This is a follow up to my previous post re, Jatco gear box. I ordered the 9 solenoid set and it arrived within a week, ( i did contact a UK supplier as suggested, but when I phoned to talk to them, the girl on the phone relayed my questions to SOMEONE and then answered me, after 3/4 min. I gave up, must not have wanted my business) So off to the garage, he was expecting the plate with the solenoids in it, not happy to do it without me being there, made an appointment for today, and all went very well, fitted the parts, but!! he discovered that the connector on a red wire to one of the solenoids was loose. Now I will follow Lord Hippos advise and test the solenoids, but the box would still have had to be stripped to find the fault. After all that a very big THANK YOU, to all the people who took the time to share their knowledge with me, and save me a lot of money. Good for Landyzone. Malcolm.

Thanks for letting us know.

Was the red wire loose where it connects to the barrel connectors or inside the auto where it connects to the solenoid/sensor? This would normally be picked up by the resistance test if it's got a poor connection. If the problem is intermittent then it needs to happen at the time of doing the resistance test to show up.

Dood Day Hippo. The red wire was loose where it connected onto the brass fitting that the bolt goes through to secure the solenoid, it had not come apart, but as soon as we touched it to reinstall the solenoid, they parted ,so we fitted a new one. Malcolm.