is it possible to add BASS to a standard system ?

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polsta

Active Member
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took a gamble on a not sure if working rear door speaker unit yesterday for £10 inc the rear doorcard which was mint (mine has a little damage)

wired it up as mine totaly dead...and alas it worked !!! 1 speaker is ok,the other is shot , but least i have sound and the amp is ok

i also picked up a few standard 4" speakers , put 1 in the non working inner rear speaker and that worked !!

so tomorrow im going to buy 2x alpine 6.5 inch speakers from halfords for £30

and might buy 2 sets of the apline 4" for £30 a set maybe, but going to ring round some local car audio shops 1st to see what they can offer

so il have all working 6 speakers, all replaced

i have the standard head unit

im wondering...is it possible to add some bass in to the system without changing the head unit ?? in my garage i have a small pre amped sub thats the size of a phone book, and would fit in the passenger under seat cubby hole, could it be possible to wire that in somehow ?
 
An ES has a bass loudspeaker in the back door but it's far from being a sub.

Yes you can wire in a sub speaker..... You will need a 12v fused supply to suit the power of the amp from the battery.

I have a 10" in a box in the boot with the 200watt amp under the passenger seat.
Instead of altering the wiring at the head unit I tapped into the audio feed from the back door speakers amp, I also used the amps 12v switching supply via a micro double pole switch, so just flicking the switch, switches on my sub amp on and switches the door amp/speaker off.
When I want to get some space in the boot i just unplug and lift out the 10" sub speaker and switch back to the door amp/speaker and carry on using that..

With your "phonebook" sub under the seat you will only have to divert the audio and switch supplies.
 
Huge bass..


84092.jpg
 
discool said:
An ES has a bass loudspeaker in the back door but it's far from being a sub.

Yes you can wire in a sub speaker..... You will need a 12v fused supply to suit the power of the amp from the battery.

I have a 10" in a box in the boot with the 200watt amp under the passenger seat.
Instead of altering the wiring at the head unit I tapped into the audio feed from the back door speakers amp, I also used the amps 12v switching supply via a micro double pole switch, so just flicking the switch, switches on my sub amp on and switches the door amp/speaker off.
When I want to get some space in the boot i just unplug and lift out the 10" sub speaker and switch back to the door amp/speaker and carry on using that..

With your "phonebook" sub under the seat you will only have to divert the audio and switch supplies.
Click to expand...

brilliant mate, so you think its definatly possible ?

this is the sub, got it from halfords a cple of years ago, as youd expect its not earth moving bass, but it does a good job of just filling out the bass that standard speakers dont provide, would fit perfect under the disco seat, so is it possible to have this running alongside/at same time as 2 new 6.5" speakers in the rear door ? so i had all 6 speakers and this for the bass ?

569301
 
No problem.. other than the main supply from the battery, 8mm cable but you can get kits includingan in-line fuse, then all you have to do is pick up the amp switched supply and the audio pair.
As said I tapped in to the boot amp, but you can cut into the head units plugs/wiring but I wouldn't :)

At the boot amp connection block you will see a screened cable with a black and a white wire thats the audio (ground & supply) also at the block with the help of a multimeter you will find two 12v supplies one is permanant, the other is head unit controlled ie. head unit (on) amp is (on), head unit (off) amp is (off) that the one you need to extend to your sub amp along with the audio pair.
I just tapped on the the wiring with a soldering iron and taped up the joints.

If I can find my notes I wiil post the colour of the switched supply later.
 
OK. the colour of the switched wire at the boot amp connector is purple/yellow but double check.

If u are taking this wiring option, I found that after removing the loudspeaker/amp assembly and pulling out the ends of the rubber covoluted door hose I found I could push a wire coat hanger into the door void and pull the additional wires through each stage and end up at the rear of the rear lights, from then the wires went around the boot carpet edge under the plastic side moldings then across the rear footwell, the carpet can be uncliped here, then into the underseat void.

The battery supply is straight forward, through the bulkhead some where then behind a kick panel and under the plastic sill covers crossing over just behind the passenger or drivers seat.

Job done as thet say. :)
 
nice one mate cheers, all noted !!! il dig the sub out in next cple of days, might be getting snow tomorrow

right...ive go the 2 apline speakers in,wirred to the amp , went out and gavre it a quick test and it worked

it actualy is a "sub" speaker, as only bass comes through ,no mod or treble

ar these 2 way alpine speakers wasted in there ? /should i take them back and buy some sub cones like this (which were same as what was in there) which are louder

2 X 6.5" Replacement Pro HiFi Woofers, Speakers on eBay (end time 11-Jan-11 19:05:58 GMT)

or just leave the alpines in ?

got to solder the wires on to the connectors and stick the amp to the magnets yet, so need to decide what to do
 
The original speakers were matched to the amp, I would have sourced a similar replacement I believe Vibe do one as that was mentioned in the forum once before it has a threaded hole in the magnet?. With the disco amp you can't alter the impedance or gain as you can with a normal amp.
 
Am I the only person who finds the rear door sub more than adequate - to the point which standing behind the car you can hear the number plate vibrating due to the bass!

Granted I have a non-standard Head unit and rigged the sub input to the RCA Sub-specific pre-out, but the OEM head unit could produce pretty good bass (just a little un-tunable)
 
polsta said:
so you think i should take these alpine ones back then ?

the standard is like the link i posted...just a 6.5" woofer cone

maplins have these ones 75w for £8.99 ,same sort of thing as was in there

612 75W Shielded BassMid Woofer : HiFi Speakers : Maplin

edit- scrap them they are only 35w rms

anyone know how many wats RMS the standard ones are ? and what the amp power is ?
Click to expand...

More important would be the question of the impedance of the standard woofers... personally @ £9 a piece I'd bang some in and see what happens - 75W Max should be plenty I'd have thought
 
I've never seen a spec sheet for a D1s ICE system but it's loud and as most standard systems are around the 35watt x 4 I would think the bass speaker would be putting out something similar other than that I haven't a clue.

I see the requency ratio of the Maplin speaker is around but 85Hz which is good, although some subs speakers can go down to 50 or a low 30Hz.
I set my 10"sub to handle bass at 80Hz unless I have the techno on then I drop it down to 50Hz via my head unit controls, the other four speakers handle only middle and treble range.
 
discool said:
I set my 10"sub to handle bass at 80Hz unless I have the techno on then I drop it down to 50Hz via my head unit controls, the other four speakers handle only middle and treble range.
Click to expand...
Do you mean the crossover point for the sub is 80hz?
 
Yeah I thought that's what you meant. I always set the LPF on both the head unit and amp to 80/100hz depending on the set up, never quite sure how accurate the filters are on the head unit outputs.
 
You can check outputs, but whats important is what "suits u sir" we are all different, 80/100Hz is good as most music, cd's in my case, are recorded with bass in that range, setting the LPF lower ie.30Hz you will mis a lot and even all of the bass sound sometimes.:)
 
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