Freelander 2 (LR2) Is a cheap FL2 worth buying.

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Nodge68

Nodge68

Well-Known Member
Posts
32,952
Location
Cornwall
Ok. So I'm thinking it's time to change from my FL1 SE auto, to something a bit more modern, and more economical too.
I thought a FL2 might fit the bill, although my budget is limited to bargain priced vehicles £2250 max.

I've seen one local-ish (80 miles away). It's black (not my favourite colour) SE manual, on a 56 plate with 2 owners and a decent amount of the history.
It's got bramble rash down the near side and a couple of minor dents in the arches. The driver seat has a couple of splits in the seat base, but otherwise the interior looks ok.
It's got 125K on the clock and I'm not sure if the timing belt has been done.

Apparently it has an occasional fault, which flags up as a turbo. Obviously this will need rectifying.

So can someone tell me what the SE spec has as standard?

Also is there anything I should look at in particular on these vehicles?

I'm hoping to get it inside my £2250 budget, if so, is it worth me taking a punt on ?

Cheers
 
If there is no proof of a belt change, you need to factor the cost of that into what you want to spend on the vehicle, also what is the vcu and tyres like. It's hard for any of us to make a judgement on the value of a car without seeing it. The turbo fault alone would put me off. At 125k miles expect things to go wrong, usually one after the other.

Col
 
Colthebrummie said:
If there is no proof of a belt change, you need to factor the cost of that into what you want to spend on the vehicle, also what is the vcu and tyres like.
Click to expand...
Belt was done at 103K miles.

No VCU on the FL2:) and all tyres are good, although not matching make between front and rear.
Colthebrummie said:
It's hard for any of us to make a judgement on the value of a car without seeing it.
Click to expand...
True.

Colthebrummie said:
The turbo fault alone would put me off. At 125k miles expect things to go wrong, usually one after the other.
Click to expand...
The turbo could be a sticking actuator, which is common on most modern electronic turbos. There's nothing about 125K miles to suggest more will go wrong, and it's less than my current TD4, just. :D
 
saxavordian said:
Nodge Nodge Nodge you can never leave the FL1 fold we won't let you. :p
Click to expand...
The wife will probably put the brakes on a new car at the moment anyway. Something about bathroom needing doing and other stuff.:confused: But I'm going to need to replace my FL1 at some point, be it sooner or later. :eek:
 
Nodge68 said:
Belt was done at 103K miles.

No VCU on the FL2:) and all tyres are good, although not matching make between front and rear.
True.

The turbo could be a sticking actuator, which is common on most modern electronic turbos. There's nothing about 125K miles to suggest more will go wrong, and it's less than my current TD4, just. :D
Click to expand...
My comment is born out of experience with higher mileage cars. It seems to me that when a car gets to a point somewhere around the 125k mark, a lot of things start going wrong. Often small things like window motors or ac compressors and so on, not the things that stop a car from working but enough to make life miserable or expensive. I have a personal rule, when a car starts costing around £500 every year to get it through the mot, it's time for it to go.

Col
 
[QUOTE="Colthebrummie, post: 4520835, member: 135159] I have a personal rule, when a car starts costing around £500 every year to get it through the mot, it's time for it to go.

Col[/QUOTE]

A reasonable rule. My bar is ‘As long as the cost of repairs is significantly less than the cost of financing another vehicle’.
 
[/QUOTE] A reasonable rule. My bar is ‘As long as the cost of repairs is significantly less than the cost of financing another vehicle’.[/QUOTE]

I am in that boat, need an ird for mine which is cheaper (I can't afford) getting another car this year. I also need it doing asap as I will be doing lots of miles this year
 
Something youngsters tend not to take into account is the difference between repairs and maintenance.

I’ve just spent a few hundred quid on my FL1, formerly my daughter’s. Brake shoes, brake pads, brake fluid, brake cylinder, tyres, vacuum hose, air filter, oil, oil filter. Of that, only £20 or so was for repairs (brake cylinder and a couple of feet of vacuum hose)
 
Denboy said:
Please please buy a Freelander2
You will be able to help the Freelander2 owners that know nothing
Including me
Ta
Click to expand...

I must admit that the number of "FL2 won't start" threads is putting me off them. I'm hanging on to the FL1 for a bit, although the FL2 I was thinking about buying has sold, for just over £2,000, so wouldn't have owed me much.
 
Went through similar thought process, but just got to know my FL 1 inside out and just passed MOTso will live with it and finish the V6. Plan is to use the V6 for short trips and TD4 for the long haul. This reduces wear and tear on the old girl a bit. Hired a FL2 a few years back in Scotland and the tech stuff did my head in. Liked the extra umph though. An I6 would be nice to try.
 
Nodge68 said:
I must admit that the number of "FL2 won't start" threads is putting me off them. I'm hanging on to the FL1 for a bit, although the FL2 I was thinking about buying has sold, for just over £2,000, so wouldn't have owed me much.
Click to expand...
That's the reason I have still got me TD4 03. What do you get that's as good? 115,thou miles, nearly 40 to the old Gallon. Sails through MOT'S with the odd ball joint/ wishbone/ exhuast. No body corrosion . Off road every other week. What's not to like.
Cheers..
 
andyfreelandy said:
Buy a scrap td4 auto and have the box out of it. Cheaper to buy the car than the parts !!!
Click to expand...

If one was to come up, that's what I'd do. Although I've no more space for vehicles at home, what with the wife's BMW E46 vert and the eldest daughter now having got a car.

As long as it works OK for my daily commute, then I'll soldier on with it for a bit. The codes I could read came up with a missing CAN signal between the ABS AND TCM, and an out of speed range for the gears. But I still can't read the TCM, which doesn't help. :confused:
 
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