IRD or front CV or ?

Hi,

I have an 02 reg TD4 Freelander 66k miles that makes 2 or 3 cracking noises from the O/S front when I change direction on full lock.
i.e. full left to full right and then pull away either forward or reverse.
It only does it from standing, never if you are travelling even very slowly, and it doesnt do it repeatedly if I drive in a full-lock circle, either forward or reverse.

When I brought it, the tyres were mismatched and it felt very tight so I removed the VCU / props and when running in 2WD, the tightness has gone away. I have a new VCU but not fitted it yet.
All 4 tyres have also been replaced.

Last year (before i got it) a replacement clutch was fitted, but it was a Single Mass Flywheel conversion clutch it, rather than a standard Dual Mass.
Looking at the paperwork, it looks like the slave cylinder gave up and dumped its fluid all over, causing the replacement.

I'm unsure what the cracking noise could be, I originally thought one of the OS CV joints was on its way out, but wouldn't that make a noise regular, especially when on a full-lock circle?

Then I wondered if the replacement clutch and seized VCU could have worn the IRD?
I changed the IRD oil today and it was clean, with only a tiny amount of light filings on the drain plug magnet, so I'm unsure about that.

The only other thought I had was that it could be something loose on the front brakes/suspension that only moves when direction is changed.

Anyone got any other ideas and/or tests I can perform to try to get to the bottom of this?

Cheers

neither look at the cvj on the drive shaft

Thanks.
Is it possible to tell if its the inner or outer joint whilst its still on the car, or does the whole shaft need to be removed first?

Would the CV joint if worn this badly not cause vibration??

is this not an option to change the whole thing?

LAND ROVER FREELANDER 2.0 TD4 DRIVESHAFT OFF/SIDE (BRAND NEW) 2001 2006 | eBay

They have the other side as well if they are not actually the same part??

I kind of thought it might have been the driveshaft but always thought that they made a regular click when driving a full lock circle - this one only does it from standing...
Mind you, the only previous CV failures I have seen have been on 'normal' cars.

I didn't realise they were so cheap as a complete assembly; I'll get one of those instead, saves mucking around with circlips flying all over the garage trying to get the old ones off

Hi,

realise it is an old thread but is exactly the problem I have however sometimes sounds like the front other times the rear

Qs

A) Can you test them either on jacks or by driving manoeuvres
B) is it best to change drive shaft
C) Oem out of Q, Bearmach about £100, but can find them at 1/2 that are these other no brand any good, only do abt 5k yr and only offroading is grass parking fields and the odd dirt lanes, happy to pay bearmach price if they are that much better than no name parts

Item B, is a thought because haven't a clue how you sort if it is inner or outer joint clicking

terrier989 said:

Item B, is a thought because haven't a clue how you sort if it is inner or outer joint clicking

Click to expand...

What's your symptoms?
If you do change the driveshafts, then avoid cheap no name shafts. OE or original LR is the only choice, if you want to avoid vibration issues.

Started off as in left hand turns with a 70-90 degree ( but not tight) at speeds around 30, I was getting a quiet "muffled" knock lifting my foot stopped it, seemed to be in rear.

Now is quite a loud clunking sound and reversing into a parking bay also causes the same, and it does it again when pulling out of bay and turning left also clunks a few more times on straightening, obviously very low speed in parking bay, some days it sounds as if it is the rear others in the front

It does not happen on the open road.

re manufacture not paying LR will go with Bearmach as they have a good reputation. re actual part would you go complete shaft so inner and outer joints are changed.

I don't blame you for not going LR on the drive shafts - they are colossally expensive compared to other brands. You will be crossing your fingers though as there have been so many stories where aftermarket shafts just don't work and are worse than the failing ones being taken off!

I wonder if anyone knows the OEM make that LR use?

I have only used 1 Bearmach part - a replacement for my engine mount which failed a WOF (MOT). It was atrocious! It wasn't up to the job and the car vibrated like crazy. I had to take it off and put the original back on (which looked in perfect nick). I'm sure all their parts can't be that bad, but I'll be avoiding them in future.

Do be careful with which drive shaft you purchase - I believe you have a TD4 so it might use the Teves Mk20 or Mk25 ABS which are very different setups. I presume there are 2 different ones corresponding to the type of ABS system used - you don't want to be faffing around trying to get ABS rings off or on the shaft - its a PITA I believe.

terrier989 said:

Started off as in left hand turns with a 70-90 degree ( but not tight) at speeds around 30, I was getting a quiet "muffled" knock lifting my foot stopped it, seemed to be in rear.

Now is quite a loud clunking sound and reversing into a parking bay also causes the same, and it does it again when pulling out of bay and turning left also clunks a few more times on straightening, obviously very low speed in parking bay, some days it sounds as if it is the rear others in the front

It does not happen on the open road.

re manufacture not paying LR will go with Bearmach as they have a good reputation. re actual part would you go complete shaft so inner and outer joints are changed.

Click to expand...

I'm not convinced that the driveshafts are the issue. I would take the propshafts off and try it out. It sounds like it could be a propshaft or IRD issue.

the louder noise to me is definitely from the front left and sounds just like a duff cv on a normal car, can the ird/prop shaft just cause this to happen on one wheel.

Limited knowledge here reason I say change drive shaft is to eliminate inner/outer cv diagnosis, do both at once, might even be quicker than cv so cheaper on labour, going to go on test drive tomorrow with my garage man (good guy builds his own rally cars and carts.

terrier989

Nodge68 said:

I'm not convinced that the driveshafts are the issue. I would take the propshafts off and try it out. It sounds like it could be a propshaft or IRD issue.

Click to expand...

Ummm I am with Nodge here.... could be wish bone rear bushes or nock from either the engine mount, suspension top mounts or even sway bar bushes. Jack the front end up get under nether and smack a big hammer on the wheels and bench lift the sway bar and listen for any noises. Gets your hands on the track rod end and drop links and see if all the rubber is still in tacked.

I had a particularly difficult to find knock over small sharp bumps, which turned out to be a failed large rear wishbone bush on the offside.
I still think it's drive line, just front to rear instead of side to side.

Nodge68 said:

I had a particularly difficult to find knock over small sharp bumps, which turned out to be a failed large rear wishbone bush on the offside.
I still think it's drive line, just front to rear instead of side to side.

Click to expand...

Yep just throwing it out there, recommend what you said in many a post. "Remove the pro shaft and see what happens"

trying to get a slot in garage abd test drive let you know what he thinks

Madmustang said:

Yep just throwing it out there, recommend what you said in many a post. "Remove the pro shaft and see what happens"

Click to expand...

A surprising amount of strange noises, knocks and clonks can be traced to drive line problems particularly when manoeuvring. Is it's only a few minutes work to remove the propshafts. I would always do that as a first test, as so many components can be traced or eliminated.

at last I have a slot going in tomorrow.

Going to ask them to do VCU test 1st (will suppl 1.5m piece of wood and some water filled bottles at 5kg. My limited knowledge of the 4 wheel drive thinks that if vcu ok fair chance the ird shd be ok, is that a reasonable assumption ( don't do any off roading etc).

If it is IRD realise I can and will convert it to two wheel drive and probably scrap at next MOT. When going to two wheel drive permanently read somewhere that you use a blanking kit, if so what is and where can I get one.

Also am I right in thinking abs still works on all four wheels, out of interest wld HDC and anti wheel spin still work but on front only.

thanks

terrier

terrier989 said:

at last I have a slot going in tomorrow.

Going to ask them to do VCU test 1st (will suppl 1.5m piece of wood and some water filled bottles at 5kg. My limited knowledge of the 4 wheel drive thinks that if vcu ok fair chance the ird shd be ok, is that a reasonable assumption ( don't do any off roading etc).

If it is IRD realise I can and will convert it to two wheel drive and probably scrap at next MOT. When going to two wheel drive permanently read somewhere that you use a blanking kit, if so what is and where can I get one.

Also am I right in thinking abs still works on all four wheels, out of interest wld HDC and anti wheel spin still work but on front only.

thanks

terrier

Click to expand...

If the VCU is stuffed then you can have it reconditioned by Bell or remove the propshafts and VCU. This will allow you to still drive the car as FWD. There's no need to fit a blanking kit to the IRD, unless the pinion gears are damaged.
The ABS, TC and HDC will all function normally. It just won't have drive at the rear, so traction will be limited.

If you are going 2WD permanently - ie the IRD is stuffed, then you should fit a blanking plate because as Nodge says the pinion gears, or their bearings, will be damaged and may jam. If the IRD is OK and you are just going 2WD until you source a replacement VCU - then you can leave the pinion in place.

My IRD went BANG 4 years ago. I removed the props and took it for a test drive round the block. The car drove OK but there were some faint 'ticking' type noises and I wasn't in any way confident using the car like it.

I rebuilt it - ie all new bearings, seals and cooler. But I didn't replace the (damaged) pinion gears - so I removed the crown gear and still run the (knackered) VCU & props - but in 2WD. I don't take it to some of the places I used to, but the TC does mean I do still venture off tarmac. I'm happy taking it down the river bed, but I wouldn't take on to wet grass!