How to 'clone' and L series ECU (DCU) - here's how

Joe_H · Aug 21, 2016

Apologies for the AND instead of AN in the title - doh/////////////////

Ok, so if you ever have an issue with your L series ECU / DCU, then you cannot just replace the engine management 'box' it has to be 'coded' to your system
IF you know someone with appropriate soldering / re-flow skills then simply get another ECU (ebay etc) (make sure it is the same part number ! - there are only two AFAIK! )

.. and then remove and replace - or get some else to do it - the two small 8 pin eeproms. marked 93C46 as per the images

That's it - DONE - - the ECU is now an exact clone of your original ECU even down to the immobiliser system etc. MANY places have what is called 're-flow' soldering equipment. Any radio / small electronic appliance (TV video dvd computer etc) place should have all the 'stuff' required'

Job sorted.

This is - 'Not' for everyone of course

- but FAR - indeed - way - cheaper than sending it away !. You can get second hand good ecu's from Ebay or breakers etc for little money. The work in the changing of the two 8 pin SOIC chips should only cost about 30 to 40 quid depending on hourly rate .. so away you go.
I would also be fully prepared to do this for you if someone needed it (but note I am in Portugal so allow for postage delays!)

... or, of course I could help and advise where possible anyone who wants / needs to do this.
Hope it helps someone. ??
Joe

ps - if you have the equipment yourself to remove and replace the 8 pin soic eeproms, then you probably have a programmer - if so then copy the bin file from each chip and then you can blow the code to the old eeproms and have a completely spare 'clone' unit'

Deep joy//////

Joe_H · Aug 21, 2016

Just FYI, this is not replacing the eproms that would be replaced when 'MAPPING' or 'CHIPPING' the unit. Those are completely different and do not contain unique identifying code.
In the image attached, I have ringed the main eproms (2 * 28 pin 27C256 unit) - THEY control the mapping. You DO NOT need to replace these.
Simply the 2 * 8 pin units.

If you are 'chipping' the ECU, then these in the image above) would be removed and socketed. Then replaced - usually with FLASH eeproms (something like the W27C512 with an 0X8000 hex offset)
But that is beyond this post really - I only mentioned it to show that the 'chipping' eproms are NOT the unique identifying eeproms '
Joe

Arctic2 · Aug 21, 2016

Thank you for posting interesting, and therefore mark as a reference

Joe_H · Aug 21, 2016

Arctic2 said:
Thank you for posting interesting, and therefore mark as a reference

More than welcome. If you need more info just PM me or post here.
I will try to get some images of the removal and replacement, however, the last 2 I did I did not take piccies of.....
Joe

Alibro · Aug 23, 2016

Interesting idea Joe. I take it if the ECU fails the fault is normally elsewhere?
As for desoldering those style of chips and resoldering them I think I tried it once or twice in the past with a normal soldering iron and only succeeded in trashing the device.
It isn't a job for a novice.

Joe_H · Aug 23, 2016

Hi mate, It is extremely unlikely that the ecu would fail on those components. Virtually unheard of.
As for removal and replacement, you really need the correct tools. Surface mount work is mostly done these days with a rework station- basically a hot air gun that is temperature and pressure controllable. You can use to to remove most components easily - surface mount and through hole. To replace the items, you put some solder paste on the pcb and the item on top, then reheat it again, it only takes around 5 or 8 seconds for the tiny chip. you just use a small nozzle and heat it up going around all the pins - I use micro tweezers to hold the ic and push very gently - the ic will simply slide off and you can pick it A perfectly clean way. To replace it you put some flux down and solder paste if needed (usually none needed if replacing the item. hold in place with the point of the tweezers on the top and then a few seconds of heat on both sides - done.
Of course you need an eprom programmer / reader and also an adaptor for SOIC 8 but we all have them just lying around of course

Here is a rework station that is cheap and excellent - as good as anything I have used before and I have used some really expensive kit !.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-858D-S...113165?hash=item25ab436ecd:g:nHgAAOSwPc9Wxux0

Also, the programmer / reader - this is about the best you can get anywhere - bar none !. there is nothing I have fond that it will not program and read - amazing.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Spee...916274?hash=item2ca7fcb032:g:bQYAAOSwGotWsAh3
Best available ! - there is a version with an ICSP port available if you want it (the TL866A - but you can convert it yourself free of charge with a little windows custom program and a 6 pin header...

The SOIC8 to DIP 8 ZIF adapter is here -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOIC8-SOP...243730?hash=item2a5b4aa012:g:LesAAOSwAYtWNxVA
Most ecus can be repaired quite easily though especially the older ones and certainly most of the newer ones. Before you can repair it though you need to know what part is not working - is is usually a sensor in or a drive out. - For example and injector drive none working - 3 ok, 1 down etc.
Once everything else is rules out and you backprobe the ecu to look at the signal the ecu it declared toast. However, it is usually a very simply fix as it will, in 99% of cases be a fault output driver for the injector or a component id the drive circuit - hardly EVER the cpu.
If anyone ever has a confirmed faulty L series ecu I can repair it for them for a small amount but they would have to send it to Portugal. If it ever DID need a replacement board I have those too.
Many many electronics places (anyone who actually repairs pcbs in for example hi end hifi etc should have all the gear and more - take the old and replacement and just ask him to swap the 2 8 pin eeproms, I could do the job in less than an hour - and 45 minutes of that is getting the gear out, opening the ecu case and extracting the board, cleaning everything, and then closing up the case with a smear of silicone grease on the seal after spraying a tiny coat of acrylic lacquer on the board over the repaired area. takes more time to take the two ecus apart lol .....
You can get some rally good quality stuff for soldering / desoldering and rework for peanuts now. My OKI iron (now metcal) is still rather expensive, however I did not pay for it as it was supplied when I was working commercially with embedded microprocessors - NICE unit though.
Just less that 300 inc vat... yikes !
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/soldering-stations/6722692/

So me mate, as said, I am sure you have all that lying around.. everything is 'easy' with the right tools and a bit of practice

Oh , also something I wouldn't be without - my Ifixit tool roll for microwork.
https://eustore.ifixit.com/en/Tools/Toolkits/Classic-Pro-Tech-Toolkit.html

Ring them up - tell them you want to take advantage of the offer code 'linus' (Linus tech tips have a deal in the US) the eu store will honour this and give you 10 euros off - bonus ! - life time warranty on the tools . I use the damn thing virtually everyday, Check out their sites for free repair guides for phones, tablets - and absolutely all sorts of stuff.
Joe

Alibro · Aug 23, 2016

Joe_H said:
Hi mate, It is extremely unlikely that the ecu would fail on those components. Virtually unheard of.
As for removal and replacement, you really need the correct tools. Surface mount work is mostly done these days with a rework station- basically a hot air gun that is temperature and pressure controllable. You can use to to remove most components easily - surface mount and through hole. To replace the items, you put some solder paste on the pcb and the item on top, then reheat it again, it only takes around 5 or 8 seconds for the tiny chip. you just use a small nozzle and heat it up going around all the pins - I use micro tweezers to hold the ic and push very gently - the ic will simply slide off and you can pick it A perfectly clean way. To replace it you put some flux down and solder paste if needed (usually none needed if replacing the item. hold in place with the point of the tweezers on the top and then a few seconds of heat on both sides - done.
Of course you need an eprom programmer / reader and also an adaptor for SOIC 8 but we all have them just lying around of course

Here is a rework station that is cheap and excellent - as good as anything I have used before and I have used some really expensive kit !.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-858D-S...113165?hash=item25ab436ecd:g:nHgAAOSwPc9Wxux0

Also, the programmer / reader - this is about the best you can get anywhere - bar none !. there is nothing I have fond that it will not program and read - amazing.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Spee...916274?hash=item2ca7fcb032:g:bQYAAOSwGotWsAh3
Best available ! - there is a version with an ICSP port available if you want it (the TL866A - but you can convert it yourself free of charge with a little windows custom program and a 6 pin header...
The SOIC8 to DIP 8 ZIF adapter is here -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOIC8-SOP...243730?hash=item2a5b4aa012:g:LesAAOSwAYtWNxVA
Most ecus can be repaired quite easily though especially the older ones and certainly most of the newer ones. Before you can repair it though you need to know what part is not working - is is usually a sensor in or a drive out. - For example and injector drive none working - 3 ok, 1 down etc.
Once everything else is rules out and you backprobe the ecu to look at the signal the ecu it declared toast. However, it is usually a very simply fix as it will, in 99% of cases be a fault output driver for the injector or a component id the drive circuit - hardly EVER the cpu.
If anyone ever has a confirmed faulty L series ecu I can repair it for them for a small amount but they would have to send it to Portugal. If it ever DID need a replacement board I have those too.
Many many electronics places (anyone who actually repairs pcbs in for example hi end hifi etc should have all the gear and more - take the old and replacement and just ask him to swap the 2 8 pin eeproms, I could do the job in less than an hour - and 45 minutes of that is getting the gear out, opening the ecu case and extracting the board, cleaning everything, and then closing up the case with a smear of silicone grease on the seal after spraying a tiny coat of acrylic lacquer on the board over the repaired area. takes more time to take the two ecus apart lol .....
You can get some rally good quality stuff for soldering / desoldering and rework for peanuts now. My OKI iron (now metcal) is still rather expensive, however I did not pay for it as it was supplied when I was working commercially with embedded microprocessors - NICE unit though.
Just less that 300 inc vat... yikes !
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/soldering-stations/6722692/

So me mate, as said, I am sure you have all that lying around.. everything is 'easy' with the right tools and a bit of practice

Oh , also something I wouldn't be without - my Ifixit tool roll for microwork.
https://eustore.ifixit.com/en/Tools/Toolkits/Classic-Pro-Tech-Toolkit.html

Ring them up - tell them you want to take advantage of the offer code 'linus' (Linus tech tips have a deal in the US) the eu store will honour this and give you 10 euros off - bonus ! - life time warranty on the tools . I use the damn thing virtually everyday, Check out their sites for free repair guides for phones, tablets - and absolutely all sorts of stuff.
Joe

Very surprised you can get the soldering station and IC programmer for that kind of money but then you also need the skill to know how to use them. Unfortunately we're not going to buy that for fifty notes.

How to 'clone' and L series ECU (DCU) - here's how

Joe_H

Well-Known Member

Joe_H

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Arctic2

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Joe_H

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Alibro

Well-Known Member

Joe_H

Well-Known Member

Alibro

Well-Known Member

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