help to confirm faulty ird

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bandit600

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hello

collected this freelander this morning after being told the ird has gone but wanted to confirm it was this before changing it over,

when driving it sounds like something metal is resting on the prop as it turns?
in reverse slight clunk when full lock is on and when full lock is on forward moving away slowly

is this the ird vc or rear diff any easy ways to tell before swopping them???

cheers dean
 
Removing the prop takes the diff and vcu out of the equation, so only the gearbox and ird are left, if whurring is still there then it probably is the ird,

If the whurring goes away its a diff problem...

Methos


ok i have removed the diff and some oil dripped from the rear diff end, the big nut was loose?????

i tightened this up and went for a drive the noises stopped and the locking up has gone drive smooth now.

so will this make it the vc gone or can it still be the diff and or ird????

i do have all 3 parts as spares but want to avoid replacing all if not needed.

also will it do any more damage if diff/ird has gone and i use it until i get around to fixing???


cheers dean
 
when driving it sounds like something metal is resting on the prop as it turns?
in reverse slight clunk when full lock is on and when full lock is on forward moving away slowly

i


Could both symptoms not denote a loose diff nut ?????
be worth purrin yer prop back on now yer tightened it up!;)

An No yer wint mek nowt worserer by leavin it off!;)
 
Could both symptoms not denote a loose diff nut ?????
be worth purrin yer prop back on now yer tightened it up!;)

An No yer wint mek nowt worserer by leavin it off!;)

now that would be a great crimbo present lol

will try that tomorrow.

how should the ird feel if turned by hand???

dean
 
You just have to narrow it down, the clunk may well have been the loose flange on the rear diff.

cats eyes had reported a clunk when taking up the drive in her hippo, plus an awful metal grinding noise. Turns out it was the CV joint at the front of the prop, gaitor had shot all its grease and it wore the CV pin roller bearings.

The slowing down on full lock is normal for a fully functioning VCU..........apparently??

Did you paint a white line (Willo method) along each prop and through the centre of the VCU/damper.

You'll find that some whurr/whine noise comes from the IRD in Mondo mode, they all do that, due to the gear teeth, I reckon they wear with age but still perfectly fit for usage. I get the slightest clunk from the IRD cogs if I jolt the transmission by a quick blast on the throttle, then off again, but judging by the similar sound from Iveco vans from new, all should be in order.
 
You just have to narrow it down, the clunk may well have been the loose flange on the rear diff.

cats eyes had reported a clunk when taking up the drive in her hippo, plus an awful metal grinding noise. Turns out it was the CV joint at the front of the prop, gaitor had shot all its grease and it wore the CV pin roller bearings.

The slowing down on full lock is normal for a fully functioning VCU..........apparently??

Did you paint a white line (Willo method) along each prop and through the centre of the VCU/damper.

You'll find that some whurr/whine noise comes from the IRD in Mondo mode, they all do that, due to the gear teeth, I reckon they wear with age but still perfectly fit for usage. I get the slightest clunk from the IRD cogs if I jolt the transmission by a quick blast on the throttle, then off again, but judging by the similar sound from Iveco vans from new, all should be in order.

hello
never tried the line test__ i have removed the prop and all seems ok but if i turn the ird by hand its feels a bit lumpy assuming this is not normal??? i have turned the other ird (out of car) and that feels smooth. if its low on oil or connected would that make a difference???
if the diff and ird have gone would you be able to see play in the flanges??

cheers
 
i turn the ird by hand its feels a bit lumpy assuming this is not normal??? i have turned the other ird (out of car) and that feels smooth. if its low on oil or connected would that make a difference???
if the diff and ird have gone would you be able to see play in the flanges??

cheers

Lumpy is not good, you shouldnt really have excessive play in the flanges.

If you drain the IRD oil, dont forget undo the refill nut first, then drain.

This will show any large shards of metal stuck to the magnet on the drain plug...........Its a start anyway, if you take apart the IRd then any obvious wear will be seen. I havent split an IRD but having seen pics, it all looks straight forward.
There is a link on here to a supplier of new pinion and bearing cases....cant find it though
 
Lumpy is not good, you shouldnt really have excessive play in the flanges.

If you drain the IRD oil, dont forget undo the refill nut first, then drain.

This will show any large shards of metal stuck to the magnet on the drain plug...........Its a start anyway, if you take apart the IRd then any obvious wear will be seen. I havent split an IRD but having seen pics, it all looks straight forward.
There is a link on here to a supplier of new pinion and bearing cases....cant find it though
thats what i fort (not good) i have a spare ird but was also looking at the kits on ebay, will try and get time to drain it today and take it from there

cheers again
 
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