Help needed

i have a Range Rover P38 and I took the battery out to charge when I plug it back in the alarm goes off tries resetting everything via my book but still nothing how can I get the alarm to stop going off and to be able to run the car

Paul Sharp said:

i have a Range Rover P38 and I took the battery out to charge when I plug it back in the alarm goes off tries resetting everything via my book but still nothing how can I get the alarm to stop going off and to be able to run the car

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Did the battery go flat on the car? If you have a BBUS sounder you MUST disconnect the battery in the proper manner. Slacken negative terminal. But do not remove it. Switch ignition on and off. Remove negative terminal within 17 seconds. Pressing the key fob should stop the alarm.

Is the battery in good condition? P38 needs a good battery.
Sounds like you might have issues with the microswitches on the door locks. If the alarm is sounding and the fob doesn't work, unlocking the drivers door manually should stop the alarm. (providing aforementioned switches are OK)
There are a number of switches and they all need to be working to enter the eka to allow the engine to start.
The other alternative is to find someone with nanocom to disable the alarm and immobiliser until such time you can get the switches fixed.
If you are planning to keep the range rover, I would strongly suggest you buy a nanocom, they are expensive but pay for themselves in very little time.

Can anybody help tried everything in the book had an auto tech come out range Range Rover says new immobiliser unit and 2 new key fob £1300 and taken it down to Lange rover before they will look at it and payment upfront tried various off book techniques and still nothing what could this mean don't want to loose the car don't mind paying someone who can help just needs sorting otherwise I have a vichle I can't use

Paul,
As with most things on the p38, it must be approached in a logical fashion.
I'm assuming that you don't have a nanocom diagnostic kit so you are up against it unfortunately.
However, @martyuk has produced a test sheet to go through you door lock switches. If these are not working perfectly, it's game over.
Do the tests and let us know the results and then we can move onto the next best course of action.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/attachments/p38-door-latch-tests-pdf.108036/

Paul Sharp said:

Can anybody help tried everything in the book had an auto tech come out range Range Rover says new immobiliser unit and 2 new key fob £1300 and taken it down to Lange rover before they will look at it and payment upfront tried various off book techniques and still nothing what could this mean don't want to loose the car don't mind paying someone who can help just needs sorting otherwise I have a vichle I can't use

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I wouldn't go anywhere near a new immobiliser unit, whatever that is, until I'd spoken to @mozz smith or @Rick-the-Pick .

Back to the start. You connect the battery with the car open and what happens?

Also, where are you? Might be a member nearby with diagnostics.

This a diesdl or petrol? What year?

Grrrrrr said:

I wouldn't go anywhere near a new immobiliser unit, whatever that is, until I'd spoken to @mozz smith or @Rick-the-Pick .

Back to the start. You connect the battery with the car open and what happens?

Also, where are you? Might be a member nearby with diagnostics.

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He's in Leeds.
Absulutely correct on not buying anything yet.
My next suggestion after the lock tests was a chat with Rick or mozz.
As far as I know, there is no immobiliser unit, it's all done by the BECM.

Wazzajnr said:

He's in Leeds.
Absulutely correct on not buying anything yet.
My next suggestion after the lock tests was a chat with Rick or mozz.
As far as I know, there is no immobiliser unit, it's all done by the BECM.

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Trying to think of a member in Leeds with a Nanocom. Might be one on the International Rescue Map.

G from Leeds. What happened to him.

If I wasn't away for the next month, I would nip over and help him out but no chance for now!

I agree with the above - check the door latch microswitches, if you're trying to enter the EKA code, and it won't accept it then I would suspect them first. Sadly, most people find they have a faulty switch when they are in the same situation as you
Also, as a note - if KEYCODE LOCKOUT on the dash is showing, then you have to WAIT 30 mins with the battery connected for this to disappear and the dash to be blank before the vehicle will accept the EKA.

Absolute worst case - if the BECM has gone into an advanced lockout, then not even normal diagnostics will sort that out. The BECM will have to be removed and sent off to someone like myself, or Callrova to have the lockout reset internally with specialist diagnostics. Even if that's the case, I charge about 10% (and would be including return shipping) of what you've been quoted for a new 'immobiliser unit' which in a P38 it's all done in the BECM, and even if they could get a 'new' one - it would still have to be programmed to your vehicle.

The door latch switches don't take long to do - just be methodical about it!

Marty

When I couldn't enter the eka code on my black one it was corroded connector blocks, the white ones at the bottom of the A posts behind the kick panels. I cut them out and soldered the wires together.