Help and Advice please!!!!

2003(53reg) Freelander TD4 Serengeti Auto. Late last year I created a thread regarding a clunk from the rear I was sometimes getting when I accelerated too quickly after slowing down and negotiating roundabouts etc. The advice given included checking the Diff mounts. Today I checked the Diff mounts with a 24" bar and they all seem to be OK, but whilst underneath the car I noticed there is some play in the Offside Drive Shaft and very slight fluid loss. I also found the rear Exhaust box, which I could move back and for very easily just hanging on with wire and not the proper Rubber Mounts , which I have now ordered and will be fitting later on today. My Question is? Could either of these be the answer to my clunking sound and if it turns out to be the Driveshaft at fault, is it a job a old geezer like me could undertake?

The exhaust rubber hangers can be a pain to fit.
The drive shaft is a good few hours work. Providing all the bolts come out, it's not that hard a job. The hub nut will be very tight to undo and needs to be done up tight afterwards. Where is the fluid coming from? If it's out of the diff seal, a new one will need fitting.

Hi Nodge68,
Yes there is a very slight amount of fluid at the Diff seal. What would you advise? because I will have to do that job with just my regular DIY tool kit. I dont have a puller, so would I need any specialized tools? What size is the Hub nut?

The hut nut will be a 32mm if it is the original - have you never done a One Wheel Up Test? Every Freelander owner should be doing them at least once a year - probably a couple of times.

Don't try getting the hub nut off with a socket set ratchet - you will need a long extension bar to get enough pressure and it will probably break before the nut moves. You'll need a breaker bar, (as I say) a long extension bar over it (to jump up and down on!) and a 6 sided socket. Once the hub nut is off, as Nodge says, it is quite a simple job.

Diff side seals can be prized out with a flat bladed screwdriver. You will need a drift to push the replacement seal in. I found a short section of 65mm metal spouting down pipe was a satisfactory fit. I used a smear of red RTV sealer around the seal's metal rim just for peace of mind. Combine that seal replacement with draining the diff and refilling with fresh oil too.