The 2.0di engine is not a bad engine. However, keep in mind that Land Rover discontinued this engine in the Freelander the following model year. (MY2001) Diesel Freelanders built in 2001 (or later) were supplied with a more powerful and refined BMW built engine. The newer engine (known as the TD4) is marginally more economical too. However, the higher market value of this model will likely offset any cost savings from fuel expenses. (The difference is an average of 1mpg...)
The main problematic area in a diesel Freelander 1 is its four wheel drive system. In particular, the
VCU and
IRD. To avoid getting confused here, just think of the IRD and VCU as two vital four wheel drive components. It is recommended that the VCU is replaced at around 70k miles. AFAIK, this isn't a typical service procedure. If it has a full service history, don't assume that the VCU has been replaced. If the VCU fails, it can also cause the IRD to fail. The repair cost for this can exceed £1000. Newer models (2001 or later) are thought to be less prone to VCU failure due to minor design modifications.
When you go to inspect your car, check to make sure that the prop shaft is there. If a VCU has failed, it is common for sellers to remove the propshaft altogether. This will mean that the car is still drivable, however, it will have lost all four wheel drive functionality as it will be permanently 2 wheel drive. (unless the propshaft/VCU is refitted to the vehicle) This will significantly reduce its resale value and you'd be much better off buying a Volvo estate instead. (seriously, I don't understand people who drive 2wd Freelanders!)
You don't need to be mechanically minded to be able to identify a prop shaft. The propshaft is a shaft that rotates and consequently drives the rear wheels. It looks like a long pipe which runs from the front to the back of the vehicle and this should be easily visible by looking underneath. (obviously don't mistake the exhaust system for being a propshaft!)
This pic isn't of a Freelander, but the propshaft should look slightly similar to this:
If you can't see a propshaft, stay well away and say at least 5 abusive swear words to the seller.
Other things:
Check to make sure that all electrics work, from door locks to windows. If it has a sunroof, make sure it works. Make sure that you test to make sure that the central locking is operative. If it's faulty, private sellers tend to leave it unlocked before a potential buyer inspects the vehicle.
When you turn on the ignition and start the engine, you will probably notice that the ABS warning light on the dash will be illuminated. Don't be immediately alarmed. This should go out
after you start driving. If it doesn't go out shortly after you begin driving, there may be a fault. However, this is not to suggest that ABS problems are common.
Of course, don't let me put you off here. Most cars have their weak spots and the Freelander 2.0 di is no exception to that. I drive a Freelander 1 TD4. Sure, it's nowhere near as reliable as my old BMW 3 Series. However, it will do what my old 3 series wouldn't do. And, it's also more economical to run (fuel wise) than most other 4x4's from that era.
