Heater (s)

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Fatrover

Fatrover

Well-Known Member
Posts
914
Location
Argyll, Scotland
Evenin All....my 76 Series 3 doesn’t have a heater. Probably cos it went to Tenerife in ‘78. Now I’m back in Scotland and so is the Landy and as I’m gettin old and soft I wonder about how to get a heater in it , principally for demisting, not that worried about cab warmth although I wouldn’t mind a bit of heat as I’m not a spring chicken anymore....any ideas gratefully received...
 
You could site a diesel air heater for cab heat under the passenger seat.
Other than that your going to struggle getting anything to blow on the glass that isn’t at least half Land Rover.
 
Was wondering if there was a quick work around for the winter, kind of a wire in blower ceramic type thing maybe....rather than more major works
 
Fatrover said:
Was wondering if there was a quick work around for the winter, kind of a wire in blower ceramic type thing maybe....rather than more major works
Click to expand...

There are electric heaters, but the electrical systems on Series aren't known to be desperately robust, especially on older ones.
And fitting the standard heater is easy, just a couple of hoses, and a wire for the fan, which should be there anyway.
 
I'm in Norway where it often gets down to -25°C.
My solution was to buy a larger heater with twin fans and fit it in a steel box above the footwell.
The clever part is that I have the normal outside air hose plus holes drilled into the footwell to allow some air to enter the box from below and to recirculate from the cabin.
If it is very cold I fit a open cell sponge in the atmospheric air intake to encourage more air to recirculate.
This keeps the cabin above 0. For comfort I've also fitted heated seats.
If you want details I'll send you some pics and part numbers.
 
You'll absolutely need a heater for winter delisting. I went through one and it was beyond uncomfortable and downright dangerous (fog, frost etc). Despite as posted, the parts aren't universally available. You can buy the heater motor but the snail (cowling) is either v expensive or difficult to source. Can be done and you'll have an authentic but dated heater. I have a contact who can supply a new cowling for a fraction of the price, came ready to fit with bolts etc. Personally I'd do an original retrofit as posted.
 
John S said:
You'll absolutely need a heater for winter delisting. I went through one and it was beyond uncomfortable and downright dangerous (fog, frost etc). Despite as posted, the parts aren't universally available. You can buy the heater motor but the snail (cowling) is either v expensive or difficult to source. Can be done and you'll have an authentic but dated heater. I have a contact who can supply a new cowling for a fraction of the price, came ready to fit with bolts etc. Personally I'd do an original retrofit as posted.
Click to expand...
I’ve been in the Canaries for years, forgotten what a Scottish winter is like.....
 
John S said:
There's other posts about Eberspacher. Try @Bobsticle , he's fitted one.
Click to expand...

He has posted about it already. And, accurately, points out that in order to address the issue of demisting, it will be necessary to incorporate the ducting from a Landrover heater as well.

Eberspachers also require a good electric supply. Personally, I have always found them to be more trouble than they are worth.
 
Original is best then? If you're going to do that a good wee trick is to mount the cowling with rubber tap washers between the cowling and the bulkhead. It provides an airspace that stops crud gathering and provides some cushioning for the motor from the road vibrations.
 
John S said:
Original is best then? If you're going to do that a good wee trick is to mount the cowling with rubber tap washers between the cowling and the bulkhead. It provides an airspace that stops crud gathering and provides some cushioning for the motor from the road vibrations.
Click to expand...

Standard would be what I would do. And was also what James suggested, and he usually knows this stuff inside out.

Anti vibration packing is always a good idea.
 
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