Heater Matrix

Thinking of replacing my heater matrix 1993 200Tdi. The current heater is very poor. Even on hot days you bearly notice it. As I understand it, these heaters ain't that bad. So considering its age I guess it need replacing (either that or I need to fit a deisel heater).

I have noticed that there is an uprated version on offer. Knowing that a replacement is around £30 is the £220 worth it for the upgraded one?

Also is this an easy job, or does the whole lot have to come out.


Val.

Val. h said:

Thinking of replacing my heater matrix 1993 200Tdi. The current heater is very poor. Even on hot days you bearly notice it. As I understand it, these heaters ain't that bad. So considering its age I guess it need replacing (either that or I need to fit a deisel heater).

I have noticed that there is an uprated version on offer. Knowing that a replacement is around £30 is the £220 worth it for the upgraded one?

Also is this an easy job, or does the whole lot have to come out.


Val.

Click to expand...

Best to take the whole thing out, not hard, but bottom bolts? are an arse as you need two people, or a pair of mole grips to hold one side of the bolt while you twirl the other.

The heaters are poor, but in their defence if you flush the matrix with a hose and it runs clear and freely and the fins are tidy it will go again, the big thing is the foam seals on the doors and around the matrix in the box rot, and then the air flows around the matrix and not though it, there is also a large foam seal between the heater box and the bulkhead that also falls to bits.
Then there is the cable slack for the internal door, this needs careful adjusting, and what you what is the cable to be under tension when the door is shut so the door is held tight against the foam seals, then the air can only go one way and that is through the matrix.
A new blower fan/motor is also a great help especially if the old one is original.
New engine stat is a good move to.

So if fan and matrix good, all it will cost you is some evo stick and a camping mat to cut up to make all the seals from.

I reckon the new fancy matrix might improve things, but if you do all the above it will help massively, and its cheap, it will never be modern car good, but it will be adequate

Ps if you search on here I am sure someone did a good thread with pics etc.

lynall said:

Best to take the whole thing out, not hard, but bottom bolts? are an arse as you need two people, or a pair of mole grips to hold one side of the bolt while you twirl the other.

The heaters are poor, but in their defence if you flush the matrix with a hose and it runs clear and freely and the fins are tidy it will go again, the big thing is the foam seals on the doors and around the matrix in the box rot, and then the air flows around the matrix and not though it, there is also a large foam seal between the heater box and the bulkhead that also falls to bits.
Then there is the cable slack for the internal door, this needs careful adjusting, and what you what is the cable to be under tension when the door is shut so the door is held tight against the foam seals, then the air can only go one way and that is through the matrix.
A new blower fan/motor is also a great help especially if the old one is original.
New engine stat is a good move to.

So if fan and matrix good, all it will cost you is some evo stick and a camping mat to cut up to make all the seals from.

I reckon the new fancy matrix might improve things, but if you do all the above it will help massively, and its cheap, it will never be modern car good, but it will be adequate

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. The car was rechassied three years ago and I'm told the heater seals where renewed then. I've looked at the cable and it appeatres to be set propperly and the fan works fine, just very little heat. I also renewed the door seals which mad last winter more bearable, talk about gaps..........

My heater cable is kaput so it’s tied off with a cable tie and now it get warm in the winter and don’t bother in the summer - cone’on it’s on my to do list

Val. h said:

Thanks for the info. The car was rechassied three years ago and I'm told the heater seals where renewed then. I've looked at the cable and it appeatres to be set propperly and the fan works fine, just very little heat. I also renewed the door seals which mad last winter more bearable, talk about gaps..........

Click to expand...

Probably maybe just the bulkhead seal, the internal seals are just as important, ALL the air has to go through the matrix and the seals , when new, achieve this but they are made of biodegradable crisp packets and don't last allowing air to bypass the matrix.
You could remove or tie back the bonnet, drill out the rivits on the top of the box and remove the matrix for a better look at the flaps and seals and you'll see some of seal condition but I would remove it completely and use camping mat to reseal it properly and a non setting sealent on the box seams and around the flap you've got to bend open to get the matrix out and the pipes where they come out the box too.
You can link the two pipes together from the engine so you can still use the truck, 15mm copper pipe will do.
You may find the bottom of the heater box has rot holes too.

Get it out, did mine a few years ago much as Flossie describes, used a 300 matrix with straight pipes as a good one came my way. Good improvement.