Freelander 1 HDC light and holding in 4th.

Had what I hope is not too serious a problem today in the V6. Started to accelerate and the HDC light came on along with f4 (I think) flashing on the dash. Car was holding in 4th even at a standstill, got home switched off left it for a short while before trying it again and all was good. Smooth changes, kick-down was good and no problem in sport mode or by manual changes. As far as I recall when I pulled away I let the H/B off and may have caught the HDC button as when I got home and parked up I pressed it then switched it off.

Is this operator error????

yes

Possibly. It's an auto. Why use the handbrake? Mine gets used twice a year. Once for my pre-MOT check and once at the MOT.

Wouldn't worry overly. Sounds like user error. Probably the ECU getting confused as you had the Hdc button on.
Just keep an eye on it.
I use the handbrake all the time, but it's parked on a hill and putting it into D is hard work if you let it rest on the box.
Mike

Maybe I'm lazy. I never use the handbrake in normal driving. I will use it if I'm jacking a wheel clear of the ground. Otherwise I don't.
Interestingly. On the D3 auto, the handbrake doesn't apply itself automatically. However the manual transmission D3 does automatically apply itself.

Sadly not operator error. Happened twice today, both occasions stopping and switching off and back on again cleared the fault and I was able to continue, changes are silky smooth, seems to happen when I want to overtake at around 50-60 and press firmly on the throttle but not on kick-down. Suspecting an electrical issue with the connectors on top of the g/box, I was checking the lower hose over the w/end to see if the 'stat was working, so may have disturb something?

Watch this space.

Check the big earth connector on the top of the autobox, remove the battery tray to access.
Is the ATF fluid old?
Check the TCM in the L shaped plastic box, connectors can come loose.
Mike

And check the connections on the back of the dash binnacle, (instrument display).
Yes they really do affect the gearbox!!
Mike

Check, clean and tighten the barrel connectors, if not tight when fitted assist with cable ties

Thanks for the tips, checked the connectors and one of them did appear loose as well as un-clipped from the g/box. I have pushed both of them together just in case and re-attached, a shortish journey didn't flag up any problems although it did seem to be a touch smoother on changes. The journey to work tomorrow will be a good test.

We'll see.

Those barrel connectors are the worst, they come apart and gather water in the top. It's a good idea to put some silicone grease or Vaseline into the top and base where the wires go in to protect them. And as said, put a couple of cable ties on them.
Mike

DSC01080 PnqqrjE

Cheers Hippo, yesterday's journey did show an improvement but not perfect. If the snow holds off today I'll do the above and let folks know.

Thanks for the photos as well as the advice from others.

An update.
After tightening the connectors - didn't have the jubilee clips to hand unfortunately - and a couple of journeys the problems persist, but no HDC light, no F4 or holding in 4th ??? Not having a lot of time I dropped it into my local garage to read the codes, they promptly asked a transmission specialist to have a look. They couldn't find an issue at first but after a little persistence have advised me that the valve block is shot and a new one fitted is £1300. Cough cough. I am not convinced - thankfully. I get it back tomorrow and will post the error codes up.

Tempus Fugit said:

the problems persist, but no HDC light, no F4 or holding in 4th

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I'm a bit lost here, don't know if others might be. What are the problems that persist?

I'm confused anorl. Were there more problems than posted on this ere fred? £1300 int far oft having a new Jatco fitted.

Sorry guys the joys of a simplex form of communication. HDC light no longer comes on, it doesn't hold in 4th, however it was revving without engaging then when I let off the revs it then engaged a gear can't remember which one though.

Why fit a replacement valve block? The individual solonoid valves can be replaced. There's nothing that can go wrong with the valve block itself. It's just a lump of aluminium with various drillings in it. It's job is to supply pressurised fluid to the various fluid servos. The replaceable valves are the things that actually allow the fluid to pass. So if there's a problem, it's likely to be 1 maybe 2 solonoid valves, not the whole valve block.
It's definitely worth checking the barrel connectors first though. If those aren't allowing the power to get to the solonoid valves, the valves won't work.

If it were mine I would do the resistance test meself, from the auto computer end, which would test the connectors without touching them. If someone is near with a hawkeye they will be able to get to the auto computer error codes. Clear it, then drive it, then see what pop's up.

Tempus Fugit said:

Sorry guys the joys of a simplex form of communication. HDC light no longer comes on, it doesn't hold in 4th, however it was revving without engaging then when I let off the revs it then engaged a gear can't remember which one though.

Click to expand...

Revving in gear could be low fluid pressure, low fluid level or bad fluid.

It could also be a clutch that is worn out. Do a fluid change and see what comes out. If it's black and smelly, that's not a good sign.