Series 3 Handbrake adjustment

Please .the handbrake does not tighten any futher on the adjustment nut. Does this mean new shoes or is there some more slack to be had ? the shoes dont look bad but i have nothing to compare with . reg mick !

There's usually loads of adjustment there, I'd take it all apart and give it all a good clean especially the expander.

Which adjustment nut ?
Handbrake is adjusted by 1/4" square expander on passenger side of drum with lever in off position wind in till shoes touch drum then adjust the rod length .
Check the lever lower pivot anchor is not slack where it fastens to chassis also.

Mechansims should be loose, then adjust shoes on the brake plate (1/4" sq), then back off 1 or 2 clicks, then set up the adjustable horizontal rod from the expander to get the angles right on the bell chrank then adjust the vertical rod to the lever to get that in the right place..

thanks ! did this , position ok now ! i was on the a steep slope this am & tested the HB,. ut the car still moves.i think new shoes .are Bermach ok ? also the trasfer box drive seals will have go in.the oil does not help .i hope these arent too difficult . reg mick

In my expereince the rear output shaft seal the nut should undo OK but the front can be very tight. The nuts on the brake are BSF even though the prop are UNF. Be carefull not to damage the case when levering out the seal. If it really wont shift you can take the speedo drive housing off and press it out from behind, this lets you set the end float too. Brake is most likely full of oil. Buy Corteco seals - a few £ more but seem to be better material - more flexible and better seal.

thanks rob , there is a vidio on you tube with the front output, but no rear .i have this evening gone as far as removing the rear prop & taken out the slit pin .i was wondering how to hold still the assembly fast whilst undoing the nut ? i was hoping to leave the housing on but ! the speedos not working . i only have a cheap seal .i dont mind doing it again as i will know how to do it by then .also ordered a seal out tool but its not here, so thanks i will take heed on damaging the case ! reg mick

mick dodd said:

thanks rob , there is a vidio on you tube with the front output, but no rear .i have this evening gone as far as removing the rear prop & taken out the slit pin .i was wondering how to hold still the assembly fast whilst undoing the nut ? i was hoping to leave the housing on but ! the speedos not working . i only have a cheap seal .i dont mind doing it again as i will know how to do it by then .also ordered a seal out tool but its not here, so thanks i will take heed on damaging the case ! reg mick

Click to expand...

I manged to undo my nut by just sticking the gearbox into reverse - the engine compression was enough to hold it. Selecting low/4WD with wheels chocked should hold it even better if your front prop is still connected.

Don't forget in 4WD both drive flanges are connected. I have a long pry bar I put though the UJ and onto a wooden block against the chassis. My front one had to be heated then took all my strenght on a 36" breaker bar but once it came off it was fine and easy to reassemble. I was doing it without jacking (for safety - as I was putting a lot of force on) but this left me little room to play with. One way to get the seals out is with a large (2ft plus) screwdriver - lever one side out in one go, the key is to protect the flange where the screwdriver pivots when you lever. When I go to boot sales I look for big old tools, they are often very cheap, but come in handy for jobs like this, I have a 36" stilson that will go over a UJ of flange, very handy.

well i did it today ! all went well. took the speedo house off too dont think i could have got the new seal back in otherwise .learned a lot and enjoyed myself too ,johnny walker on the radio guinness on the bonnet ! many thanks for the help men mutch appreciated ! just see how long these all makes seals last ! regs mick