Got lift but not a wide angle Driveshaft? You should fix that....

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Whatisthatmetric

Whatisthatmetric

Member
Posts
47
Location
North Iceland
Last weekend I was out on a cruise on the highway during a beautiful day to get a feel for my car again as its performance was a day and night difference since fixing a bunch of performance issues (serious leaks, seized wastegate, valve/rocker adjustments) and also seeing if anything I over looked during re-installation would fail. Everything I worked on was perfect. So something decided to go wrong at the drive train.

Sudden loud pop and quick grind followed by a clunk. That would be the sounds of my rear drive shaft coming apart.
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My Disco 1 has 4" suspension lift. Got it that way from the guy I bought it from. I've had this thing for almost years now with no drive shaft issues. However the fact that the drive shaft are stock has always been a slight concern for me since they are stock. I think the joints failed in spectacular style as they did now right after the performance increase in the motor because power being put down was more constant. No struggles slowing down going up hill or bogging down feeling like before. It was enough to put it over the edge. I couldn't find where the front have of the drive shaft went but I was able to recover the tube part; it was 100 meters back and 20 meters off the road in the grass.

Managed to drive back by locking the diff and drove it like a front wheel drive car.

I'm ordering me some wide angle shafts soon.
 
Looks like it’s been binding for ages. Surprised you couldn’t hear or feel it.

I have to ask though. What size tyres are you running to necessitate a 4” suspension lift????? Do you actually have any suspension travel left.

Personally think I’d be looking st sorting the suspension out as well as the drive shafts.
 
300bhp/ton said:
Looks like it’s been binding for ages. Surprised you couldn’t hear or feel it.

I have to ask though. What size tyres are you running to necessitate a 4” suspension lift????? Do you actually have any suspension travel left.

Personally think I’d be looking st sorting the suspension out as well as the drive shafts.
Click to expand...

38" tires. There's also 4" of body lift. You can see it in my build :D
Suspension is on the list. It's was all done by previous owner.
 
Correcting radius arms should be at the top of your list of suspension parts. Having typed that - I know that you can buy front ones (known as castor correcting) but can you buy them for the back, which I suppose I'd call diff, shock mount and spring seat correcting?
 
boguing said:
Correcting radius arms should be at the top of your list of suspension parts. Having typed that - I know that you can buy front ones (known as castor correcting) but can you buy them for the back, which I suppose I'd call diff, shock mount and spring seat correcting?
Click to expand...
Can't believe I didn't see this reply.
I'll be getting a full suspension kit that includes front and rear cranked radius arms. I'm still undecided on which to get as it seems I can on,y pick between 2" or 5 "
 
Whatisthatmetric said:
Can't believe I didn't see this reply.
I'll be getting a full suspension kit that includes front and rear cranked radius arms. I'm still undecided on which to get as it seems I can on,y pick between 2" or 5 "
Click to expand...
I think it depends what you are trying to achieve. Castor corrected front arms arguably cause more issues than they solve.

The rear cranked arms are also only an answer to part of the question. I personally prefer the X-Arms from X-Engineering. If you lift a long way however, longer arms may be required so as to maintain the wheelbase distance, but this again then can cause other issues. And nobody really makes a long arm kit for a Land Rover as far as I've seen.

I know you are in Iceland, where you have different requirements to us in the UK. Although my preference would be to lift the vehicle as little as possible to maintain a lower C of G and trim the arches to accommodate larger tyres. A body lift may help here. So maybe a 2" suspension + 2" body lift and heavily trimmed arches would be my choice. I'm sure it would be possible to run 35 or maybe even 37" tall tyres that way.
 
300bhp/ton said:
I think it depends what you are trying to achieve. Castor corrected front arms arguably cause more issues than they solve.

The rear cranked arms are also only an answer to part of the question. I personally prefer the X-Arms from X-Engineering. If you lift a long way however, longer arms may be required so as to maintain the wheelbase distance, but this again then can cause other issues. And nobody really makes a long arm kit for a Land Rover as far as I've seen.

I know you are in Iceland, where you have different requirements to us in the UK. Although my preference would be to lift the vehicle as little as possible to maintain a lower C of G and trim the arches to accommodate larger tyres. A body lift may help here. So maybe a 2" suspension + 2" body lift and heavily trimmed arches would be my choice. I'm sure it would be possible to run 35 or maybe even 37" tall tyres that way.
Click to expand...

One correction leads to another. Just the way of modding.

Making the selection on height is a big decision. I want to go with 2" since it already has 4" body lift. Need to get the 38" tires to fit. The springs will need to be a selection that don't have that much easy travel distance. Radius arms, shocks, springs will be a full set hopefully rather than mixing and matching. Heavy duty options will be selected also. Once those are in I'll make necessary corrections where needed.

The current setup on it is such a backyard botch job. Almost anything changed on it will be a dramatic improvement.
 
johnlad said:
Lol,
I’m using Gwyn Lewis double cardon front prop, and extreme wide angle rear prop, with adjustable A-frame so rear axle can be angled upward to align diff flange with propshaft
Click to expand...

Hi bud! How do you find the gwyn Lewis props? Do the uj's all grease up equally etc? I've had a replacement rear prop, brit part shaft with Hardy spicer uj's and I've had the bąstard rear uj apart twice as grease was only coming out of one bearing... funnily enough the original front prop greases up perfectly every single time! I only live about 12 miles from gwyn so am interested to hear your experience with them as I may get them next time!
 
Gottschalk said:
Hi bud! How do you find the gwyn Lewis props? Do the uj's all grease up equally etc? I've had a replacement rear prop, brit part shaft with Hardy spicer uj's and I've had the bąstard rear uj apart twice as grease was only coming out of one bearing... funnily enough the original front prop greases up perfectly every single time! I only live about 12 miles from gwyn so am interested to hear your experience with them as I may get them next time!
Click to expand...
I’ve had them on a few years now and they seem to grease up equally. Seem to remember when buying them, he said there especially made for him to his specifications and include 4 pathways for the grease to find its way to each of the cups. As far as I know, his are the only ones made like that
 
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